2003 Black - sold, back again, and sold
2003 DBP/DC - #153 Whipple 3.4 (permanent garage art)
2003 DBP/LF - # 36 (sold)
2003 DBP/LF - # 205 (sold)
2004 Black - Trilogy #43
2003 Black - shitbox (sold)
2004 DTR - shitbox #2
I am almost done with my project, I had to swap heads too, but I think you should pretty much replace everything while you are in there in my opinion. water pump, oil pump, and all gaskets.
I pulled my engine to do mine so I also did the oil pan gasket and rear main seal.
Check with local Mustangs owners / clubs in your area for mechanic recommendations.
“When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
Ronald Regan
"The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."
Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters
“Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
"I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
General James Mattis
We recently had a clack sound, we first removed the driver side cam cover ( remove the wiper cowel first) rotated the engine over by hand and found the secondary cam tensioner was sticking before going back in. Pulled the engine out, removed the oil pan, timing cover and passenger cam cover. We inspected the internals, and replaced the cam tensioners only as the primary timing components were new last winter. We made a set of hoist brackets that are similar to the service manual (expensive) which make things easier for removal and installing.
I’m sure someone has and will again do this job by only removing the timing cover. After 200k miles it’s going to be dirty and need a good cleaning.
Tips: remove the power steering pump pulley to remove the pressure line to remove the bolt behind it.
There’s a special tool for the front timing cover seal that presses it in vs a hammer and board.
Use silicone on the lower alinement dowel pin, harmonic balancer key and both sides of where the head mates to the block and timing cover.
SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference
I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard
2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)
If I was in your situation I'd consider a Coyote swap. They're starting to show up in salvage yards in wrecked Mustangs.
What kind of modifications would have to be made to drop in a Coyote engine? It has more Horsepower Would I have to change the Exhaust system
A mechanic suggested that I get the oil drained out of my car and to break open the oil filter to check for any type of metal shavings among other things from Nylon to plastic pieces from the tensioners etc. It seems like the best thing to do before doing all the work opening up the engine cover. As it could be a metal mess inside the engine.
Also if I did get new tensioners chain and water pump seals valve covers etc. Since the engine would be running with more compression could that possibly blow out a head gasket. Someone else suggested rebuilding the engine. But that would be
quite costly.
more compression blow out a headgasket? Whoooo is thissss mechanic?
Run.
The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies
Current marauders
04 DTR totaled JUST NOW starting to part out 7-21-2021 https://youtu.be/REUxjP1BVpg
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop Whipple Supercharger
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop V2 Supercharger
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Converted
03 DBP Light Flint #122
03 DBP Dark Charcoal #232
03 Silver Birch 300b Light Flint Going to fix er up
03 Black 300a
04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal moonroof in the works
04 Heaton Swapped DTR
Joe's Wrecked DTR rebuild thread
He thinking back did not say more compression. But he said the engine would be running smoother more efficiently with the the new chain and tensioners. As opposed to how it is running with the chain loose. So the said the car "could" blow out a head gasket. Is that information sketchy? I do not know enough about engines to make a judgement on his statement
the chains are loose because a tensioner is failing, these are interference engines, meaning if timing of piston and valves is off too far they will hit and cause serious breakage of parts. your mechanic does not know mod. motors, theze are not pushrod motors.
2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
Has supporting mods and stuff
Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.
R.I.P.
Rex "SC Cheesehead"
He did mention valves and pistons being off especially a piston doing damage
I had the same problem on my 03 with 109000 miles Passenger side tensioner was toast. Replaced primary tensioners and chains in the car. Drove it last summer but had a ticking noise that was annoying so decided to pull engine to see if noise was a lash adjuster or valve guides. Lash adjusters were all hard as a rock but exhaust guides seemed loose. Engine still out and heads are off. Was amazed at the condition of the cylinder bores. No ridge and can still see the cross hatch pattern. Bottom line is some broken plastic pieces from the chain guides were inside the oil pickup tube blocking oil flow and I would not have found them without pulling the oil pan
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