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Thread: Marauder won't start: possible remote start/pats issue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
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    Marauder won't start: possible remote start/pats issue

    Hi, I have an issue with my DBP 03 (I no longer have the car in my signature). Long story short, the car has a dealer installed Ford remote start and the car won't start. I just replaced the battery, as I figured that it was the likely culprit bc I had seldom used the car over the winter and it had not run for about three weeks prior to this problem. Upon replacement, the horn blasted and it wouldn't turn off. I disconnected it and attempted to start the car: I heard the fuel pump activating and the entire dash lit up when I turned the key but the car didn't turn over, not even a click... Both of my remotes, which appear to be Ford aftermarket items that came with PN: 2W7Z-19A361-BA, the remote start system, are completely useless and won't even lock or unlock the car (the batteries are fresh). I located a button under the dash and depressed it but nothing changed. I checked the 30 amp ignition fuse in the box under the hood and it looked okay. In the past the car sometimes had given me a problem when I tried to start it after manually unlocking it and using the conventional key.. to correct it, I would hit unlock on the remote and the car would turn over normally.

    Further, there is a small LED light for the remote start on the dash beneath the instrument cluster that used to flash but no longer does. It appears as if the module is dead...

    What should I do? Is there perhaps a fuse in the module that I'm missing? I really don't want to have to tow this thing!

    Thanks,
    Matt

    Reinhart tune, NGK TR6 Plugs, 180 Degree stat,EMP/ Stewart Water Pump, K&N Aircharger, Cobra Exhaust, Megs Delete Tips, Flowmaster 40 Series Delta Flows, 4.10 gears, COP Connectors, Underdrive Pulleys, PHP Intake Spacer, 255/55/18 KDW2 Rears, Powerslot Rotors, Hawk Pads, TCI Deep Trans Pan, Ford Racing Girdle

  2. #2
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    Check if there's any fuses in the remote start module somewhere under the dash. Usually there's always at least one or two for any aftermarket remote start system even if it's ford.
    2003 Mercury Grandma on steroids

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldPanther View Post
    Check if there's any fuses in the remote start module somewhere under the dash. Usually there's always at least one or two for any aftermarket remote start system even if it's ford.
    What ^^^ he said.

    Is there any documentation that you have that says how to "marry" the remotes to unit?
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  4. #4
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    I checked the inside of the module and all of the fuses inside are good. No, unfortunately I don't have anything, I'm the third owner and it never made it to me. What is odd is that the little LED below my instrument cluster isn't flashing. When I turn the key, the PATS LED on top of the dash stays solid red and then goes out… this leads me to believe the module isn't getting juice, but I'm no expert.

    Reinhart tune, NGK TR6 Plugs, 180 Degree stat,EMP/ Stewart Water Pump, K&N Aircharger, Cobra Exhaust, Megs Delete Tips, Flowmaster 40 Series Delta Flows, 4.10 gears, COP Connectors, Underdrive Pulleys, PHP Intake Spacer, 255/55/18 KDW2 Rears, Powerslot Rotors, Hawk Pads, TCI Deep Trans Pan, Ford Racing Girdle

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by RedMerc04 View Post
    I checked the inside of the module and all of the fuses inside are good. No, unfortunately I don't have anything, I'm the third owner and it never made it to me. What is odd is that the little LED below my instrument cluster isn't flashing. When I turn the key, the PATS LED on top of the dash stays solid red and then goes out… this leads me to believe the module isn't getting juice, but I'm no expert.
    Are there any markings... part numbers, etc. on the modules or fobs? If there are maybe we can find more info.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  6. #6
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    The module under the dash has a PN of: 2W7J-19G367-AA. I had entered the wrong PN in my first post.

    I looked at a few other Ford forums for info but nobody seems to have the problem that I am: their cars would at least start with the key. I attempted to program the remote start per the instructions I found on those sites but that didn't help. I don't think I have an issue with the PATS system bc the LED on top of the dash comes on, stays solid and turns off if I leave the key in the run position.

    Reinhart tune, NGK TR6 Plugs, 180 Degree stat,EMP/ Stewart Water Pump, K&N Aircharger, Cobra Exhaust, Megs Delete Tips, Flowmaster 40 Series Delta Flows, 4.10 gears, COP Connectors, Underdrive Pulleys, PHP Intake Spacer, 255/55/18 KDW2 Rears, Powerslot Rotors, Hawk Pads, TCI Deep Trans Pan, Ford Racing Girdle

  7. #7
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    PATS sounds like it's working normally, if it's a Ford dealer installed system if you hold down that momentary switch while you turn the ignition key to crank it should crank then start. When you press down it bypasses the remote start install.

    '98 MGM LS...sold..................... .............................. ..'03 300A...sold 6/17

  8. #8
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    I tried that and got nothing, when I released the key I heard a subtle sound from somewhere in the engine compartment that sounded like a cricket--not a typical dead battery click but a very low sound- I was able to replicate it every time I released the key.

    Reinhart tune, NGK TR6 Plugs, 180 Degree stat,EMP/ Stewart Water Pump, K&N Aircharger, Cobra Exhaust, Megs Delete Tips, Flowmaster 40 Series Delta Flows, 4.10 gears, COP Connectors, Underdrive Pulleys, PHP Intake Spacer, 255/55/18 KDW2 Rears, Powerslot Rotors, Hawk Pads, TCI Deep Trans Pan, Ford Racing Girdle

  9. #9
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    Oh I'm sure you have a stuck starter. Have someone cranking it while you hit it with a hummer.
    2003 Mercury Grandma on steroids

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by GoldPanther View Post
    Have someone cranking it while you hit it with a hummer.
    Here we go...
    The Blackbird
    Trilogy #61
    Driveway Queen

    The Spruce Goose
    2004 Grand Marquis LS Limited Edition
    Daily Driver

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by RF Overlord View Post
    Here we go...
    What's so funny?
    This actually worked for me last time I replaced a starter. Who hasn't try this?
    2003 Mercury Grandma on steroids

  12. #12
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    Me thinks he meant hammer, not Hummer. But a Hummer could be just as effective as a hammer.

  13. #13
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    Lol oops sorry
    2003 Mercury Grandma on steroids

  14. #14
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    As a stereo and alarm installer since '93 I could fix it in a snap if you lived closer. BUT - if you remove the knee bolster and look under the column you'll see aftermarket wiring that is apparent and with some basic knowledge and common sense, you could remove it yourself. Let me know if you're interested and I'll assist any way I can.
    '04 Silver Marauder w/ sunroof - HID lighting, JL Audio / Eclipse DVD/NAV/iPod/camera, 4.10's, 2" drop, Progard Bumper Baffle, Delete tips, Billet Pedals, BC4E dead pedal, Lidio Tune, Mach1 chin spoiler, K&N CAI, TCE lines, Super40's, tinted tails, SS Inserts, Heinous Control Arms, Real oil gauge, lighted door handles. Currently installing Eaton M112.

    2004 Mercury Marauder
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  15. #15
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    Smile Wiring

    I think Zack was able to solve his wiring issue.
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