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Thread: Parts List to do your Timing Chain Guides/Tensioners

  1. #31
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    Did anyone have any experience with using the Ford Racing kit ? Currently the next item on my list to do on my MM. Just looking for options on what to use and the Ford Racing Kit is much cheaper than using the Standard ford kit.. Went to a local dealer and quoted me $600 for parts alone not including the necessary gaskets or seals..

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chard View Post
    Did anyone have any experience with using the Ford Racing kit ? Currently the next item on my list to do on my MM. Just looking for options on what to use and the Ford Racing Kit is much cheaper than using the Standard ford kit.. Went to a local dealer and quoted me $600 for parts alone not including the necessary gaskets or seals..


    Buy everything listed in the first post. No need to get "the kit" unless....Your engine was very neglected. Open it up, and diagnose!


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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03Merc View Post
    Buy everything listed in the first post. No need to get "the kit" unless....Your engine was very neglected. Open it up, and diagnose!
    Im leaning towards the kit since my MM only has 73k on the Odometer and it already requires a Timing chain tensioner replacement compare to everyone else. i would rather just replace everything and prevent me from having to remove the cam covers again for something else.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chard View Post
    Im leaning towards the kit since my MM only has 73k on the Odometer and it already requires a Timing chain tensioner replacement compare to everyone else. i would rather just replace everything and prevent me from having to remove the cam covers again for something else.


    Opened mine up at 115k and all that was required was the parts listed above....


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  5. #35
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    Two questions: 1) how difficult is this to do (subjective I know, but I've never gone this deep into the engine and need to know if any special tools are required), and 2) what symptoms does the car give to let you know this should be done?

    I'm just turning 114k and haven't heard anything yet, but want to know what to listen / look for.

    Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    Two questions: 1) how difficult is this to do (subjective I know, but I've never gone this deep into the engine and need to know if any special tools are required), and 2) what symptoms does the car give to let you know this should be done?

    I'm just turning 114k and haven't heard anything yet, but want to know what to listen / look for.

    Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Look for a rattle noise on cold start up. It's hard to do, if You've never done this b4. Yes special tools are required. I tore it apart, but had guidance getting it back together. Do it tho regardless, Every 100k Miles.


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  7. #37
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    Parts List to do your Timing Chain Guides/Tensioners

    Well, I have the parts list obviously, but just need the basic steps and tools, which I may have already.

    I'll search the forums as in 13 years I'm sure someone's posted some of that info.

    (My normal approach is to just "hit it with a big hammer," until it stops making the noise I don't want, or starts making the noise I do want, but maybe I'll dig deeper this time...)

    Thanks for the tip on what to listen for.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  8. #38
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    I have completed this procedure on two 4.6 SOHC engines- the procedure is similar aside from the cam covers and the use of the cam locking tool. The first engine had 243k miles and the second was a 2003 with only 63k. The 2003s were supposedly prone to faulty guides- this one was fine when I opened it up but I replaced everything anyway.
    I believe the cam locking tool may be necessary for the DOHC but I did not need to fully remove the cam covers on the SOHC. I loosened the front 70% of the cam cover fasteners just enough to barely lift the front of the cam covers to break the seal from the cam covers to front cover. Before you remove anything inside, be sure to put a zip tie around each chain at the crank to prevent the chain from slipping. I got careless on the second engine and the left chain slipped on me, so I then had to also remove the cam covers to re-time the engine.
    The most difficult part of the job is removing the PS pump. The pump was a piece of cake on my high mileage engine, but a bear on the nearly new one! The high mileage pump bolts turned freely with fingers in and out after they were loosened, but the other engine required a wrench all the way out and in on the b!tch bolt.
    A member on the crownvic.net site documented this procedure and I have a pdf of it but it's too large to attach here. You might check the site to get a copy. It will be very similar for the DOHC but keep in mind the part list will likely be different. I've attached images of timing the engine that slipped on me.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    04 MM Silver Birch/Light Flint, HS, TO, 6CD, #597 of 3214 (sold 5/2014)
    06 MGM LS Ultimate w/HPP, Black/Dark Charcoal
    04 MGM LS (335k miles and counting)
    69 Marquis convertible, 429
    92 F250HD 4x4
    48 Ford F4

  9. #39
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    Parts List to do your Timing Chain Guides/Tensioners

    Thank you, appreciate the information!

    I'll check the site ref, but do I need the cam alignment tool, the locking tool, or both? In looking online they're saying that for a 4 valve engjne I would need two of them, one for each side.

    Thanks.
    Last edited by Svashtar; 07-29-2017 at 09:20 AM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  10. #40
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    I have not done this on a DOHC, but I believe that would be correct if you had both tensioners off at the same time, but you should remove and replace one side at a time and lock the side you are working on, then put the tool on the other side to service that side. I believe the cam tool is referred to as the cam locking tool. You won't be adjusting the cam so I don't think you'll need a tool for that, nor do I know what that tool is. Also you will remove the four bolts that hold the PS pump, but you will most likely not be able to remove the b1tch bolt completely from the pump due to the proximity of the hydraulic line. Just leave it in the pump as use it for realigning the pump back to the engine.
    04 MM Silver Birch/Light Flint, HS, TO, 6CD, #597 of 3214 (sold 5/2014)
    06 MGM LS Ultimate w/HPP, Black/Dark Charcoal
    04 MGM LS (335k miles and counting)
    69 Marquis convertible, 429
    92 F250HD 4x4
    48 Ford F4

  11. #41
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    291k and never had a valve cover unbolted. One of these days I'll open it up, it will be interesting to see the condition of everything inside.

    Anyway, if you're going this far into the engine I believe it would be foolish to skip degreeing the cams.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
    03 MM 300A (Lotsa mods, 130k mi) was 303rwhp/318rwtq N/A
    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
    then 660/555 D1SC PC on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
    01 F150 longbed
    01 F150 shortbed
    00 F150 4x4 stepside
    01 F150 4x4 7700
    68 Stang FB (70 351C 4V, 4 wheel discs, project car)

    Mods listed here (some items not current): FordNut's Mods

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by 69marquis conv View Post
    I have not done this on a DOHC, but I believe that would be correct if you had both tensioners off at the same time, but you should remove and replace one side at a time and lock the side you are working on, then put the tool on the other side to service that side. I believe the cam tool is referred to as the cam locking tool. You won't be adjusting the cam so I don't think you'll need a tool for that, nor do I know what that tool is. Also you will remove the four bolts that hold the PS pump, but you will most likely not be able to remove the b1tch bolt completely from the pump due to the proximity of the hydraulic line. Just leave it in the pump as use it for realigning the pump back to the engine.


    Thanks for the info; not dissing anyone for doing a great job maintaining their MM early on, but doing it in the 60k range seems like a bit of overkill, unless you had a problem?

    Mine's running quiet for now, so think I'll wait another 30-40k or so and see how it's looking (sounding). That will get me at about 150k.

    Thanks again.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  13. #43
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    Found this video on a 2003 Aviator with major failure but ignored and driven nonetheless. This is one of the best videos I have seen and could possibly be a tutorial to those that want to DIY this.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EPFv0veBO8k
    '04 Silver Marauder w/ sunroof - HID lighting, JL Audio / Eclipse DVD/NAV/iPod/camera, 4.10's, 2" drop, Progard Bumper Baffle, Delete tips, Billet Pedals, BC4E dead pedal, Lidio Tune, Mach1 chin spoiler, K&N CAI, TCE lines, Super40's, tinted tails, SS Inserts, Heinous Control Arms, Real oil gauge, lighted door handles. Currently installing Eaton M112.

    2004 Mercury Marauder
    Born March 2004, adopted October 2005. Sold January 2012, adopted AGAIN January 2016
    2,187 of 3,214
    997 in Silver Birch
    448 with light flint interior
    304 with heated seats
    336 with sunroof

  14. #44
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    Super interesting, thank you. These are great engines, I wonder why Ford dropped the cast iron tensioners and went with the plastic guides in '03. Too bad they cheaped out.

    I think I can do this, but need to learn how to lock the cams so I don't have to retime. I'll need to do more research on how to do that before I make the attempt. Luckily it's running quiet for now.

    Great video, thanks for posting.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  15. #45
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    Local speed shop just estimated cost of doing this for me at $1,567 (parts and labor). Ouch.
    2003 300B
    VIN: 677166, #6738 of 7839
    built: 2/13/03
    wrty start: 5/28/03
    69,810 miles @ adoption from Marauder57 02/21/07
    84,197 on 02/21/08
    95,776 on 02/21/09
    109,301 on 02/21/10
    121,447 on 02/21/11
    125,925 on 02/26/12
    130,375 on 01/01/13
    134,831 on 2/4/14
    149,441 on 2/24/18
    Dark Blue Pearl, #128 of 327

    Inherited mods: 4.10's, 180 'stat, Addco Rear Sway Bar, Ceramic-coated Cobra Manifolds, DR's X-Pipe kit w/hi-flow cats, KVR X-Drilled Brake Rotors (rear), PI 3000 TC, DR's Tranny Upgrade 1.5, DR's Rear Engine Cooling Mod, Metal Matrix Drive Shaft, Zack-Mack Rear U&L Control Arms.

    My mods: aluminum lower grill screen, tranny cooler, DR's NoIC Novi SL 1200 S/C kit self-installed 8/11-8/14/08, Zack's tranny tune, dyno tuned by Justin Starkey @ VMP Tuning: 447 RWHP/386 RWTQ. DDM 5000k HIDs, KB BAP w/upgraded wiring, RacerX modded FPDM, front springs cut 1.25 coils

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