A resurrection: 2003 MM fix!

[Agent2006]

Update:

replaced the battery/starter/alt wiring harness. I take back everything I thought or said about Ford using too-small of a wire gauge, the thing was difficult enough to route and bend the wires where they were supposed to go. Executive summary - my salt-mobile harness was in OK shape at 131K miles, except for the top part=- both battery terminals and those top connections...in case you are on the fence about replacing yours. Attached pic is the bastard of the whole job, the harness is attached to the back of the engine block on the pass side by this metal bracket. KEEPS the harness off the pass side exhaust and burning the whole car down. Don't zip-tie/say F it. The stud is a tough one to get to, too tight for a long socket, stud is too long to seat a std 13MM socket.

If you replace this harness, take VERY careful note of where the harness goes over/under various lines , it wont fit well otherwise.

The good news, get a socket on there U-joints its not on there that tight, break it loose and you can spin it off by fingers. Other bad news for me--my forearm is too fat to get up in there, had to take off RF tire and pull forward the inner fender liner, take off one upper retaining bolt/fender washer, and you can jam your arm in there. Minus a little O+ fluid.

Next task - grind down and repaint (Rustoleum) cross over tube, was kinda flaky but got down to solid metal OK. scariest parts are the tube near the temp sensors, but they look solid. I can't pay $350-400 for an OEM replacement right now. I used emory cloth and a sander. This came out OK.

What is WAY too crusty is the heater hose return tube, I ordered one from RA -it is the wrong tube. This tube along the pass side engine is MM specific.... So the plan is to get 3 ft of 5/8" heater hose and bypass the metal tube, this car is NOT a resto. see last pic, looks like a metal coolant line from the Titanic.

BSCM and the new DDM came today...woo hoo!

[Invective]

You are a true inspiration!

[Comin' in Hot]

The hose coming off the heater core is 3/4”, you’re going to need a reducer somewhere to go to 5/8”. I’ll try to get a picture of mine, but I used pre-bent universal 90° hose sections to make it follow the factory routing better than a straight piece. I’ll try to find some photos of it. If not I’ll take some tomorrow.

[MyBlackBeasts]

The hose coming off the heater core is 3/4”, your going to need a reduced somewhere to go to 5/8”. I’ll try to get a picture of mine, but are used pre-bent universal 90° hose sections to make follow the factory routing better than a straight piece.

This^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^

[Invective]

If you get bored...

[Agent2006]

Originally Posted by Comin' in Hot View Post
The hose coming off the heater core is 3/4”, your going to need a reduced somewhere to go to 5/8”. I’ll try to get a picture of mine, but are used pre-bent universal 90° hose sections to make follow the factory routing better than a straight piece

Thanks! great info ....I hadn't noticed the heater core exit was 3/4" and the crossover tube was 5/8". I got a 3/4" to 5/8" adapter from A.Z. was $3 bucks.. I'm running all 5/8" hose on this one,no 90 degree bends on this one.

To invective-what was the design inspiration for those lovely spokes? Looks like a 76 Chevy Nova steering wheel.

https://www.ebay.com/p/75-79-Chevy-N...8925279&chn=ps

[a_d_a_m]

Glad to see this one getting a 4th chance. And of course offroadkarter knows about this car; he's a MM historian

[Agent2006]

Whew! The cross over tube plug is giving me a good fight.

So far:

--KROIL
--PB blaster
--Acetone/Mercon V
--propane torch
--cutting a slot/trying to chisel
--vice grips, vice grips , and more vice grips. plus cheater bar
--tapping on the sides/on the top
--paraffin wax candle drips

...so rusted , you can't see the seam between plug and tube...

all have failed to budge the plug. I'm thinking: drill out the center, then larger and larger drills until I can chisel and tap...hope that won't destroy the tube threads.

Or disconnect the overflow tank and raise that up to form the burp point. If this were bypass kit, how do they burp that? I would think by raising the overflow tank to be the highest point.

if it does...I'm think of buying a Cobra or Aviator style tube which aren't a zillion bucks, then getting a 180 degree silicone hose and a couple of 90 dgree bends to allow the MM radiator hoses to be hooked up...thoughts? NOT GIVING UP!

Or is it better to hacksaw horizontally and remove the plug and maybe a thread or two, then try to clean up whats left of the tube threads??

On the positive side, I've obtained a drivers door panel from a wrecked charcoal interior taxi, the arm rest is in good shape (shocking, I know), unlike my trashed MM Dr door panel, So I'm dremeling out the plastic weld/plugs to allow removal, then install on my MM panel. To reinstall, I plan to use self tapping screws and fender washers on the backside of the panel.

[a_d_a_m]

Propane wouldn't budge my COT at 103k, and it wasn't even rusted. Neighbor used his MAP torch on it and it begrudgingly let loose.
If you know anyone that welds, maybe weld a larger nut atop the plug and see if you get anywhere with that?

[Agent2006]

Thanks Adam - good thought, but I don't have anyone nearby who can weld. One more thought -- drill it out, and tap it for a smaller "hydraulic plug". That's what these plugs essentially are, a hydraulic plug you can get from McMaster Carr etc.. Anything to allow air bleeding and resealing. Then get a delete kit later.

[a_d_a_m]

I may have missed this, but is the COT pipe still installed? Or had you removed the pipe?

I wouldn't drill into the plug if it was still connected to the motor - worry about shavings getting into the coolant...

[Agent2006]

still installed. I would disconnect the radiator hose, then stuff the tube full of rags to catch the shavings.

[Agent2006]

...what to do, what to do? Burp plug won't budge, afraid of damaging the whole tube assembly, yet I need to bleed air/burp the system at the highest point?

One option is to get the on3 bypass kit, but for now...

possible answer -- install an in-line radiator neck/cap into the top radiator hose. like one of these...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/h...SABEgL2k_D_BwE

summit one looks too long, I don't think I have enough straight section of upper radiator hose..

Snagged one out of a junked 2004 Dodge Dakota, which is shorter length. $2.50. if it can be spliced in, i'll add a pic. also grabbed an oil cap, auto parts store generic one on my engine shattered in my hand, grabbed the upper door triangle trim for the front pass door, and a cheapo steel hook spare tire hold down. It'll do the job.

[justbob]

A nice set of Channel locks should easily remove it? (Actual Channel lock brand, nothing else..)

I’d be more worried of snapping the engine mounts from torquing it loose LOL (or at least the legs on the COT).

Also as funny as it sounds, quite often tightening something first actually loosens most stuff up that was originally stuck.


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[Agent2006]

Initiating HACK JOB sequence....(burp cap install in top rad hose)

after the exhausting oil cap swap, I had to lie down for a while..LOL