There is no need to cut anything, nor bend, on the car. Nor cutting the new lines. Don't buy any addtional kit as you will see just how easy and cheap it is. You do not need to alter your OEM lines in any way.
Your local FLAPS sell everything you need to convert from the MM's metric bubble flair to the linelocks standard thread double flair.
Easiest 15 minutes ever.
Also I opted for what is basically a door bell button for the activation switch, cost $4 from home depot and works flawlessly.
I'll take a couple pics in a couple minutes.
Sent from my Ally while ruling the world from my toilet.
Last edited by justbob; 07-23-2012 at 04:32 PM.
SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.