Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 31 to 45 of 58

Thread: EATC Blend Door Actuator

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Somewhere in the N.C. Triangle
    Age
    68
    Posts
    26,250
    Quote Originally Posted by Keith View Post
    Kudos to the expertise available on this forum, again. Great people here.

    My BDA stopped functioning 2 days ago, just like that, no warning. I got on here for awhile yesterday and looked up everything I could find on the BDA. Did the self test and confirmed that the BDA was the problem. (Code 025)

    Somewhere in all of the "stickies" I found a statement that said:

    "Doing the EATC Self Test 3 - 5 times in a row can sometimes fix a BDA problem."

    Did this and hallelujah, problem fixed. What a great source of info we have here!

    Question: Does fixing the BDA in this way imply anything about the BDA? Is this a problem that will start to happen again and again? Did I just fix the symptom and not the root problem? Maybe I should start looking for the right P/N BDA and prepare for a more permanent fix?

    Thanks again,

    Keith in Houston
    '04 DTR
    Yes it will happen again. Who knows when.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  2. #32
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    St. John, IN
    Age
    45
    Posts
    14,251
    A plastic gear tooth breaks in the actuator. It will stop working again....soon

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Texas
    Age
    69
    Posts
    76

    Thanks for info

    Yeah, you're probably just 'kicking the can down the road' so to speak.
    Thanks to Adam, FastBlack, and Zack, that's what I needed. I'll take care of it permanently.

    My gut feel was right on this one - it sure seemed way too easy.


    Keith in Houston
    '04 DTR
    MartyO Tune 'in the mail'

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Mexican Gang Infested Salinas, CA
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,317

    EATC Blend Door Actuator

    Quote Originally Posted by 01MercGMLS View Post
    That I can handle. I'm just more concerned about the disassembly and reassembly now. Everybody makes it seem like it's a pain in the ass then this other guy a little bit ago and said that it's not too bad and he did it in an hour and a half. I'm not sure what to believe anymore. LOL

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    ^^^This^^^. Exactly. From reading you can see that it’s obviously a pain in the ass, unless you’ve done it several times, and after reading for two hours I have three usable tips that I can use: 1) disconnect the negative battery terminal for the airbag, 2) remove the radio, 3) take out the glove box. Not sure where to even find the right side bolts to remove and the left side bolts to loosen.

    There’s no way I’m going to be prying out my dash bezel or pulling stuff out from under the dash or even trying to remove the airbag without having clear instructions and tips to not break something, so I’ll check YouTube as mentioned.

    The extent of my “dash” work has been to pull out the instrument cluster to add gauges and move the cigarette lighter over, and this looks a bit more involved!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Svashtar; 07-01-2019 at 02:53 AM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Winfield, MO USA
    Age
    43
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    ^^^This^^^. Exactly. From reading you can see that it’s obviously a pain in the ass, unless you’ve done it several times, and after reading for two hours I have three usable tips that I can use: 1) disconnect the negative battery terminal for the airbag, 2) remove the radio, 3) take out the glove box. Not sure where to even find the right side bolts to remove and the left side bolts to loosen.

    There’s no way I’m going to be prying out my dash bezel or pulling stuff out from under the dash or even trying to remove the airbag without having clear instructions and tips to not break something, so I’ll check YouTube as mentioned.

    The extent of my “dash” work has been to pull out the instrument cluster to add gauges and move the cigarette lighter over, and this looks a bit more involved!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    And ^^^this^^^ is why mine still isn't done.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Mexican Gang Infested Salinas, CA
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,317

    EATC Blend Door Actuator

    Quote Originally Posted by 01MercGMLS View Post
    And ^^^this^^^ is why mine still isn't done.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    Well, obviously it’s doable because a bunch of guys have figured it out and done it. But, I have unique skills like I said, and the first time I took off the cover for the window / door lock controls I snapped the back tab off, and had to come up with a repair. This is why after 18 months I still haven’t sent my dead light panel switches to Jim.

    I figure if I can stumble through changing out the airbags and solenoids, and pulling down the overhead and fixing the compass, and installing the blower motor speed control module behind DR’s rear engine cooling mod, and doing the OF housing gasket yesterday, and other stuff I never thought I could do, I can do this too, but am definitely going slow. There aren’t exactly a lot of MM replacement parts out there any more.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Winfield, MO USA
    Age
    43
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    Well, obviously it’s doable because a bunch of guys have figured it out and done it. But, I have unique skills like I said, and the first time I took off the cover for the window / door lock controls I snapped the back tab off, and had to come up with a repair. This is why after 18 months I still haven’t sent my dead light panel switches to Jim.

    I figure if I can stumble through changing out the airbags and solenoids, and pulling down the overhead and fixing the compass, and installing the blower motor speed control module behind DR’s rear engine cooling mod, and doing the OF housing gasket yesterday, and other stuff I never thought I could do, I can do this too, but am definitely going slow. There aren’t exactly a lot of MM replacement parts out there any more.
    The lack of parts is one of the reasons I haven't pulled the trigger on a Marauder yet. I've wanted one for many years and I still love the car but I just can't do it. I'm stuck with my Grand Marquis. At least those have a huge group of salvage vehicles to pick through when you need a part.

    With that in mind... My dash will be a little easier I would imagine since I have a column shifter. You guys with console shifters might have more trouble.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Oxford, PA
    Posts
    459
    Quote Originally Posted by 01MercGMLS View Post
    The lack of parts is one of the reasons I haven't pulled the trigger on a Marauder yet. I've wanted one for many years and I still love the car but I just can't do it. I'm stuck with my Grand Marquis. At least those have a huge group of salvage vehicles to pick through when you need a part.

    With that in mind... My dash will be a little easier I would imagine since I have a column shifter. You guys with console shifters might have more trouble.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk
    I thought about that too, as I trundled around town in my MGM. Then I said WTF...I'm going for it.

    The unique parts aren't that many:

    ---cross over tube --you can get some one to fab you one, install your own fill adpater if yours does not leak but is stuck, or pay $300 bucks
    ---PCM ---that's the biggie = $400 bucks and you have to wait because they have no cores available
    ---ABS module ---unique because of the staggered tire sizes, costs $100 to get rebuild done
    ---overhead compass = who cares
    ---speedo cluster --they are out there used. $150 or so..
    ---air ride parts ---same as a zillion town cars or MGMs
    --engine parts --mostly the same as Lincoln aviator --hopefully you can reuse your front cover.
    --fog lights same part as on some Mazdas
    ---front/rear bumper covers --repros are out there

    And --- for some MGM parts, the popular ones disappear in the JY or that JY part as the same issue yours does...a false sense of security

  9. #39
    Join Date
    May 2018
    Location
    Winfield, MO USA
    Age
    43
    Posts
    84
    Quote Originally Posted by Agent2006 View Post
    I thought about that too, as I trundled around town in my MGM. Then I said WTF...I'm going for it.

    The unique parts aren't that many:

    ---cross over tube --you can get some one to fab you one, install your own fill adpater if yours does not leak but is stuck, or pay $300 bucks
    ---PCM ---that's the biggie = $400 bucks and you have to wait because they have no cores available
    ---ABS module ---unique because of the staggered tire sizes, costs $100 to get rebuild done
    ---overhead compass = who cares
    ---speedo cluster --they are out there used. $150 or so..
    ---air ride parts ---same as a zillion town cars or MGMs
    --engine parts --mostly the same as Lincoln aviator --hopefully you can reuse your front cover.
    --fog lights same part as on some Mazdas
    ---front/rear bumper covers --repros are out there

    And --- for some MGM parts, the popular ones disappear in the JY or that JY part as the same issue yours does...a false sense of security
    I've really never lost complete interest just haven't really been looking. I guess you're right and as for the air ride, you can also delete that if you're so inclined. So I guess it's not as bad as I thought.

    Now... to find a low mileage silver... hmm.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Florence, NJ
    Posts
    170
    my turn ordered motorcraft actuator from amazon. will replace without pulling dash and report back any issues.
    2003 Mercury Marauder Black
    1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
    1974 HD Shovelhead
    1998 Chevy K1500

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    Location
    birmingham, al
    Age
    36
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by Glenn-ho View Post
    my turn ordered motorcraft actuator from amazon. will replace without pulling dash and report back any issues.
    How did it go

    Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Woodridge, IL.
    Age
    38
    Posts
    341
    AND now it's my turn! Ordering the part today. Anyone have a best/favorite How to video on YouTube that they could share here with me, a good step by step that doesn't require removing the entire dash?

    Sent from my LM-G820 using Tapatalk

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    Connecticut
    Age
    39
    Posts
    4
    Just did this last week following some youtube videos for guidance. Pulled the airbag and glove box, fought the air duct out of the way. Unbolted the upper dash screws and the lower nut in the passenger kick panel, then pulled the dash away and propped it with a chunk of 2x4. Had just enough room to shove my hands in there. Front bolt came out with a 1/4" ratchet, rears I had to use a box wrench / socket with my fingers and eventually got them out, there's little space above those to get a ratchet in there. Install was reverse, and yes I used a motorcraft part. All in all the job wasn't terrible and took me about an hour, but I'm used to doing stuff like this.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    Mexican Gang Infested Salinas, CA
    Age
    68
    Posts
    1,317

    EATC Blend Door Actuator

    Quote Originally Posted by moldymac View Post
    Just did this last week following some youtube videos for guidance. Pulled the airbag and glove box, fought the air duct out of the way. Unbolted the upper dash screws and the lower nut in the passenger kick panel, then pulled the dash away and propped it with a chunk of 2x4. Had just enough room to shove my hands in there. Front bolt came out with a 1/4" ratchet, rears I had to use a box wrench / socket with my fingers and eventually got them out, there's little space above those to get a ratchet in there. Install was reverse, and yes I used a motorcraft part. All in all the job wasn't terrible and took me about an hour, but I'm used to doing stuff like this.
    I’m impressed. I’ve had the new Motorcraft part sitting on my bench for over a year. Right now mine is stuck on A/C, which works for me, and last year I was able to get it to switch to heat enough to get me thru a very mild winter here.

    Along with this I need to change the O-rings in the system, AND figure out how to remove the radio. One of the four holes for the radio is blocked with a broken piece of metal bar stock, and can’t be removed, so I need to remove the radio the old fashioned way.

    I have a feeling this is one of those all day tasks, not an hour.

    As I found out yesterday while changing the alternator on a 2006 Hyundai Tucson, YouTube is definitely your friend, although some of the guys offering advice often gloss over some key details.
    Last edited by Svashtar; 09-23-2020 at 07:59 AM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    APPLE VALLEY,CA
    Age
    59
    Posts
    1,366
    Both links show a missing page.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. blend door actuator
    By Chayton in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 04-13-2017, 12:00 PM
  2. blend door actuator
    By MMARAUDER in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 04-07-2014, 04:27 PM
  3. Blend door actuator
    By BLACKMARAUDER04 in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 05-26-2013, 09:17 PM
  4. Blend Door Actuator
    By kmastl in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 08-27-2012, 10:17 AM
  5. Replacing Blend door actuator
    By Flynlow in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 07-17-2011, 06:50 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •