“When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
Ronald Regan
"The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."
Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters
“Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
"I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
General James Mattis
A plastic gear tooth breaks in the actuator. It will stop working again....soon
Thanks to Adam, FastBlack, and Zack, that's what I needed. I'll take care of it permanently.Yeah, you're probably just 'kicking the can down the road' so to speak.
My gut feel was right on this one - it sure seemed way too easy.
Keith in Houston
'04 DTR
MartyO Tune 'in the mail'
^^^This^^^. Exactly. From reading you can see that it’s obviously a pain in the ass, unless you’ve done it several times, and after reading for two hours I have three usable tips that I can use: 1) disconnect the negative battery terminal for the airbag, 2) remove the radio, 3) take out the glove box. Not sure where to even find the right side bolts to remove and the left side bolts to loosen.
There’s no way I’m going to be prying out my dash bezel or pulling stuff out from under the dash or even trying to remove the airbag without having clear instructions and tips to not break something, so I’ll check YouTube as mentioned.
The extent of my “dash” work has been to pull out the instrument cluster to add gauges and move the cigarette lighter over, and this looks a bit more involved!
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Last edited by Svashtar; 07-01-2019 at 02:53 AM.
2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
Well, obviously it’s doable because a bunch of guys have figured it out and done it. But, I have unique skills like I said, and the first time I took off the cover for the window / door lock controls I snapped the back tab off, and had to come up with a repair. This is why after 18 months I still haven’t sent my dead light panel switches to Jim.
I figure if I can stumble through changing out the airbags and solenoids, and pulling down the overhead and fixing the compass, and installing the blower motor speed control module behind DR’s rear engine cooling mod, and doing the OF housing gasket yesterday, and other stuff I never thought I could do, I can do this too, but am definitely going slow. There aren’t exactly a lot of MM replacement parts out there any more.
2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
The lack of parts is one of the reasons I haven't pulled the trigger on a Marauder yet. I've wanted one for many years and I still love the car but I just can't do it. I'm stuck with my Grand Marquis. At least those have a huge group of salvage vehicles to pick through when you need a part.
With that in mind... My dash will be a little easier I would imagine since I have a column shifter. You guys with console shifters might have more trouble.
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I thought about that too, as I trundled around town in my MGM. Then I said WTF...I'm going for it.
The unique parts aren't that many:
---cross over tube --you can get some one to fab you one, install your own fill adpater if yours does not leak but is stuck, or pay $300 bucks
---PCM ---that's the biggie = $400 bucks and you have to wait because they have no cores available
---ABS module ---unique because of the staggered tire sizes, costs $100 to get rebuild done
---overhead compass = who cares
---speedo cluster --they are out there used. $150 or so..
---air ride parts ---same as a zillion town cars or MGMs
--engine parts --mostly the same as Lincoln aviator --hopefully you can reuse your front cover.
--fog lights same part as on some Mazdas
---front/rear bumper covers --repros are out there
And --- for some MGM parts, the popular ones disappear in the JY or that JY part as the same issue yours does...a false sense of security
I've really never lost complete interest just haven't really been looking. I guess you're right and as for the air ride, you can also delete that if you're so inclined. So I guess it's not as bad as I thought.
Now... to find a low mileage silver... hmm.
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my turn ordered motorcraft actuator from amazon. will replace without pulling dash and report back any issues.
2003 Mercury Marauder Black
1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe
1974 HD Shovelhead
1998 Chevy K1500
AND now it's my turn! Ordering the part today. Anyone have a best/favorite How to video on YouTube that they could share here with me, a good step by step that doesn't require removing the entire dash?
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Just did this last week following some youtube videos for guidance. Pulled the airbag and glove box, fought the air duct out of the way. Unbolted the upper dash screws and the lower nut in the passenger kick panel, then pulled the dash away and propped it with a chunk of 2x4. Had just enough room to shove my hands in there. Front bolt came out with a 1/4" ratchet, rears I had to use a box wrench / socket with my fingers and eventually got them out, there's little space above those to get a ratchet in there. Install was reverse, and yes I used a motorcraft part. All in all the job wasn't terrible and took me about an hour, but I'm used to doing stuff like this.
I’m impressed. I’ve had the new Motorcraft part sitting on my bench for over a year. Right now mine is stuck on A/C, which works for me, and last year I was able to get it to switch to heat enough to get me thru a very mild winter here.
Along with this I need to change the O-rings in the system, AND figure out how to remove the radio. One of the four holes for the radio is blocked with a broken piece of metal bar stock, and can’t be removed, so I need to remove the radio the old fashioned way.
I have a feeling this is one of those all day tasks, not an hour.
As I found out yesterday while changing the alternator on a 2006 Hyundai Tucson, YouTube is definitely your friend, although some of the guys offering advice often gloss over some key details.
Last edited by Svashtar; 09-23-2020 at 07:59 AM.
2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
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