Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123
Results 31 to 44 of 44

Thread: First time back to the track.

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Couple of car lengths ahead of you
    Age
    46
    Posts
    19,158
    Quote Originally Posted by sailsmen View Post
    Per K&N*

    "That brings us to size.



    Use the formula below to compute the minimum size filter required for your particular application. The usable portion of the filter is called the EFFECTIVE FILTERING AREA which is determined by multiplying the diameter of the filter times Pi (3.1416) times the height of the air filter in inches, then subtracting

    .75-inch. We subtract .75-inch to compensate for the rubber seals on each end of the element and the filter material near them since very little air flows through this area.





    A = effective filtering area

    CID = cubic inch displacement

    RPM = revolutions per minute at maximum power



    Example: A 281 CID Ford engine with a horsepower peak at 6,500 rpm.



    281CI X 6,500RPM / 20,839 = 87.65





    If you are sizing a panel filter, multiply the width of the filter area (not the rubber seal) times its length."



    The panel filter would need to be 9.4"X9.4".



    The filter I have is 127.25" in Effective Filtering Area.



    *Note: changed to reflect MM application.


    The cubic inch displacement you show doesn’t include the additional amount being pushed in by a power adder and leaves out many many variables such as cams, porting, throttle bodies, and exhaust.

    Either way, I trust dyno numbers more than physics with so many variables. Besides, K&N is in the market to sell larger filters..

    Can you achieve a few more numbers with more airflow? Yes. But more concern should be focused on length of run and ease of flow. I remember Brian picked up over 80 RWHP just by going to a smooth welded pipe vs his corrugated hose on his 3.4 Whipple.

    In the OP’s case he upsized the filter but added an elbow to make it work. I only picked up another 103 RWHP in my race tune running 110 fuel, upping the boost from 20 to 26, and swapping the baby filter for a bird catcher. But then again, we had to shut her down just before 6,000 RPMS due to clutch slippage. The graph with both tunes was reaching the moon quickly before the clutch said no..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Earth
    Posts
    8,352
    Blog Entries
    1
    To clarify it's K&N's formula.

    I was use it as a base line not to go under.

    The past several years at Car Shows I have seen a trend towards minuscule filters.
    1/4 Mile Time 11.542 @ 121.19 MPH
    195,000 Miles & 275+ Runs Down the 1,320’
    541.57 RWHP & 476.64 RWTQ on DynoJet
    Tuned by Aric at Injected Engineering
    Vortech Super Charger V-2 “T” Trim, 19 PSI
    8 Rib Belt, Innovators West 10% Overdrive Dampner
    Air to Air Intercooler, Mini-race Bypass
    Ford Cobra Remanufactured Long Block
    Snow Performance Water-Methanol Injection
    Kooks Headers & X Pipe
    GT MAF, 60lb injectors, Dash 8, Aero Rails, Twin Ford GT Pumps,
    Kinsler Fuel Filter, Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump
    Monroe Sensatrac, Metco Control Arms, Addco Rear Sway Bar
    31 Ford Spline Axles & Detroit Truetrac, 4:10 Ford Racing Gears
    Dynotech MMC Driveshaft
    A-1 Performance Trans, Forced Tailshaft Lube, Carbon Clutches
    3,500 RPM Stall Precision Industries Torque Converter
    B&M Deep Finned Trans Pan
    AeroForce Scan Gauges , Auto Meter Oil, Fuel & Boost Gauges
    Kenny Brown Dead Pedal, 35% Tint, Silver Star Head Lights
    AutoPage Alarm RS-727LCD, Boston Acoustic NX87

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Hastings, mi
    Age
    39
    Posts
    296
    I've been planning on metco arms both sets. But what else have you guys in the sub 11s and drag tires done to your rear suspension?

    I still dd mine three seasons a yr. But I'm concerned about the oem airbags outback and launching the car hard at the track.
    2003 budget built marauder-lm7 5.3 4l80 VS racing 78/75 and things
    Current best 11.4@120mph
    #BSTDMRC #LSSWAPPEDMARAUDER
    Instagram -
    Cheapthrillb2_
    lsswappedmarauder

  4. #34
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Moreau Island
    Posts
    11,478
    I think Sherm and Chris are still using bags and they are into the 10's. Perhaps a stiffer track specific shock.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Couple of car lengths ahead of you
    Age
    46
    Posts
    19,158
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Man View Post
    I think Sherm and Chris are still using bags and they are into the 10's. Perhaps a stiffer track specific shock.


    Not only that but I believe they are breaking daylight under the skinnies with stock control arms and stock brakes as well!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Hastings, mi
    Age
    39
    Posts
    296
    Stock arms in the rear?

    My bushings are worn. 230k on my chassis. Figured I replace with metco.

    Frt brakes getting upgraded though. Slowing down from 120 mph at the track I frequent cooks my frts bad.
    2003 budget built marauder-lm7 5.3 4l80 VS racing 78/75 and things
    Current best 11.4@120mph
    #BSTDMRC #LSSWAPPEDMARAUDER
    Instagram -
    Cheapthrillb2_
    lsswappedmarauder

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Medford, NJ.
    Age
    72
    Posts
    1,091
    Only thing I changed was the control arms.

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
    971
    I’m sure Bob means stock “front” control arms and brakes, or not?
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 P1SC, now D1SC.
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD)

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Couple of car lengths ahead of you
    Age
    46
    Posts
    19,158

    First time back to the track.

    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    I’m sure Bob means stock “front” control arms and brakes, or not?


    Nope!

    I seen the car at Marauderville 9 and couldn’t believe it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
    Posts
    1,575
    We have pullled 1.41 60's on the bone stock rear suspension with just a 28x10 Hoosier Drag tire.

    We now have the CHE arms and have been best of 1.39 at 4200 lbs. Stock suspension works fine.
    ~Chris

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Hastings, mi
    Age
    39
    Posts
    296
    I had already planned for n replacing arms as my bushing are all worn anyway, but glad to hear the bags can take it.

    Any specific recommendations on rear shocks? I think have sensatracs on it now that look pretty old.
    2003 budget built marauder-lm7 5.3 4l80 VS racing 78/75 and things
    Current best 11.4@120mph
    #BSTDMRC #LSSWAPPEDMARAUDER
    Instagram -
    Cheapthrillb2_
    lsswappedmarauder

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Woodbridge, VA
    Posts
    1,575
    We just have the stock 54k mile ones now. There are adjustable ones available(brain fart right now cant remember name but you know it). I would say stock is fine for you.
    ~Chris

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
    971
    Quote Originally Posted by Blown3.8 View Post
    We just have the stock 54k mile ones now. There are adjustable ones available(brain fart right now cant remember name but you know it). I would say stock is fine for you.
    You have the proof that there isn't a huge difference in the 60ft. But, i will say that for daily driving the billet arms have a better feel than stock. My $.02
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 P1SC, now D1SC.
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD)

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Hastings, mi
    Age
    39
    Posts
    296
    Track day

    First back sense last year. Made some changes. Hoping for faster ets lol.
    2003 budget built marauder-lm7 5.3 4l80 VS racing 78/75 and things
    Current best 11.4@120mph
    #BSTDMRC #LSSWAPPEDMARAUDER
    Instagram -
    Cheapthrillb2_
    lsswappedmarauder

Page 3 of 3 FirstFirst 123

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. just back from the track
    By ntd in forum Drag Racing Round-up
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 10-29-2010, 06:19 AM
  2. Back at the track again
    By merc in forum Drag Racing Round-up
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 07-16-2010, 01:10 PM
  3. just got back from the track
    By ImpalaSlayer in forum Drag Racing Round-up
    Replies: 45
    Last Post: 10-24-2009, 07:21 AM
  4. back to the track
    By keyboardracer in forum Trilogy Motorsports
    Replies: 1
    Last Post: 04-25-2003, 02:54 PM
  5. Just Got Back From The Track
    By Mike M in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 03-14-2003, 02:50 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •