Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 47

Thread: P1233 MM broke down 100 miles from home

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Oxford, PA
    Posts
    459

    P1233 MM broke down 100 miles from home

    Hello

    Everything was going smoothly on Father's day....low speed cruising through a residential area....when suddenly the EATC AC fan cut off, check engine light came on, high beam indicator started blinking (??? never saw that happen before)...and the car quit.

    Restarted everytime right away but would only move a few feet then started sputtering. Right after the restart the engine would freely rev & sounded fine, then began to sputter finally would stall.

    --checked fuel pump cut off switch
    ---reset the p1233 code
    ---unplugged and replugged in the Fuel driver module

    code came on again, cleared it again, came on a third time..P1233

    ---I'm getting a used FPDM and going to visit the car tomorrow, hopefully it's not the PCM? any experiences with this?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Whitehall, PA
    Age
    43
    Posts
    2,935
    Where are you at?
    2003 Black - sold, back again, and sold
    2003 DBP/DC - #153 Whipple 3.4 (permanent garage art)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 36 (Sold)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 205 (Sold)
    2004 Black - Trilogy #43
    2003 Black - shitbox

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20,353
    Maybe clear the code a fourth time?

    I never understood the reasoning in doing that.

    When was the fuel filter changed last?

    Are you able to datalog fuel pressures?

    Have you swapped the fuel pump relay with another?

    Start small.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Oxford, PA
    Posts
    459
    Hey thanks Comin'in....I'm in oxford the car was in eldersburg md.

    Update...early this am I checked some local yards...one had 2003 town car just came in...rolled it. Gentle roll tufts of grass jammed in the door jamb,shoulda got a pic. That tells me the car was in running cond. When it got totaled....means the fpdm probably worked. Trunk still shut. Key still in ignition....popped open the trunk...$15.90 later i had my fpdm. Went to the MM swapped modules...reset the codes...ran well for five minutes...then high beam indicator,abs light, cel , weird noise in cash squeak, eatc fan went on them off...car stalled. P1233 again.

    Either: bad pcm, bad ground(s)......? Remember i used all new ford battery/alt/starter harness,New motorcraft battery....one thing the air compressor power cable was still live ! Recently made a spark...thought I pulled that relay....

    Fuel filter changed 5000 ago ,datalogg showed good fuel pressure, new Delphi fuel pump 5K ago....I'm getting it rollback towed home then I'll dig in. First day around here where the weather got real warm. Bad solder or electronics?
    Last edited by Agent2006; 06-17-2019 at 06:56 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    5,956
    Check the reset switch, I mean that car was in 4 accidents God only knows what that thing is doing.

    Pull the carpet back, pound on it til it trips, then pop the button in. See what happens.

    if that doesn't help, might have to start probing wires


    2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005

    2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
    440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
    2063/3214

    (Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
    5377/7838

    2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB

    1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Nov 2002
    Location
    St. John, IN
    Age
    45
    Posts
    14,251
    Sounds like it needs an alternator

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Oxford, PA
    Posts
    459
    got it home $380....tow bill. now for the autopsy....

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Oxford, PA
    Posts
    459
    Update:

    --hit the reset trunk switch 3X ... Car starts right up idles fine, but ABS light is on. Fuses are OK. Eventually, it will start to shudder and the high beam blue indicator comes on the dash, then it stalls. So, I took apart Ground 101 mounted on the driver inner fender liner -which grounds the PCM and the ABS module. Then I ran 8 ga. wire from that ground directly to the negative terminal on the battery. Cleaned and checked Ground 102. (neg battery terminal to the pass inner fender.) When this shuddering occurs, the EATC shuts off.

    Also hear squeaking or clicking from the Blower speed control module on the firewall? Weird. So next I turned on the headlights/on high beam...and the car quit. Turned off the headlights, restarted fine....turned the headlights on again car quit.

    I should mention when it runs fine multimeter across the batter reads 14.30VDC -14.40VDC....when the problem occurs 12.48-12.04 VDC. When the headlights caused the motor to shut off (like turning off the key) was still above 12 VDC!

    Finally used a Stanley load tester on the 6 month old Motorcraft battery...."good" three different tries. 15 secs.

    The alternator (" a rebuilt one") that's on there now: was replaced at 47K miles in 2009....now ten years, 90K miles later I'm going to put a new Delco alternator on there. Stay tuned! Hoping it is not the PCM going out on me.

    So why was the fuel pump driver module the thing that set a code? For no signal. Maybe because it's the furthest thing from the PCM, biggest amp/current drop due to the long wires.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Oxford, PA
    Posts
    459
    Update -new Delco Alternator, swapped, in a new Motorcraft battery, disconnected then sprayed the PCM connector.....no improvement. I ordered a refurbished PCM = $399...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20,353
    Have to taken the harness apart that runs behind the drivers side head yet? It’s known to rub on the metal support holding up the wiper cowl. I believe pretty much everything that is going wacky on you runs in that harness including the wiring for the FRPS.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Oxford, PA
    Posts
    459
    Good point, wouldn't hurt to trace the wiring harness route again....I did look at that harness when I first got the car running ..but not recently.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20,353
    It’s usually a very noticeable slice right thru the convoluted piping.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Oxford, PA
    Posts
    459
    Thanks, wiring harness was routed down low not near the bracket and had good unmolested wrapping. I sent my computer off to carcomputerexchange.com in NC...they did not have a core. Said it would take a week ~

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    New Orleans, LA
    Posts
    262
    its obvious a bad ignition switch

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2017
    Location
    Oxford, PA
    Posts
    459
    Remember:

    Runs fine at idle

    --turn on headlights ,engine shuts off
    --tap PCM box lightly, engine shuts off

    --posting all this for current and future Marauder owners...

    After I replace the $400 dollar PCM, I can replace the $10 switch makes perfect sense for this Zombie Marauder.

Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. Finally broke 100k miles
    By Badger in forum The Lounge
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 11-22-2017, 03:11 PM
  2. obd-II p1233
    By yryr999 in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 01-03-2014, 11:45 AM
  3. Broke it already
    By Juice in forum Power Adders
    Replies: 31
    Last Post: 12-13-2011, 06:38 AM
  4. I broke something :(
    By CRZYBIKER in forum Transmissions
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 07-25-2007, 07:33 PM
  5. I broke my...
    By LincMercLover in forum Community Discussion
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 10-03-2003, 06:31 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •