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Thread: Leaking oil sending unit

  1. #1
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    Leaking oil sending unit

    Just my luck. I have this unique ability to do things in the most difficult way possible, or find unique problems.

    Anyway, today I finished my COT o-rings, and looks like it’s all good.

    Then pulled the ABS module to send off tomorrow.

    Finally, finished the oil filter housing gasket replacement, got it all back together, and while I was filling it with coolant and burping the system I spotted oil under the car.

    Its not coming from the gasket, it’s coming from behind the knurled washer of the oil sending unit. I attach a pic. I JUST had this thing in my hand two hours ago, off the car and could have changed it in a second. The washer WAS loose, but tightening it doesn’t help much. (I’m wondering now if _this_ was the source of my leak all this time and not the housing gasket!)

    Questions: do I have to dump my $30 of fresh synthetic oil to change this?

    And, I did the conversion 13 or 14 years ago to real OP gauge, and was down here following instructions from Wes Chain, but have no recollection of what I did. I’ll check my old papers and see if I have Wes’s instructions.

    Would that involve a different sending unit? I recall changing wiring around but not replacing this I don’t think. Would anyone know what part # I should ask for to keep my real OP qauge functioning?

    Thanks for the help again.


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    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  2. #2
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    Yes, you changed the sending unit back then. I’ve always had luck just snugging it up. You could try to loosen just enough to squeeze a bit of silicone or whatever your weapon of choice and snug it back up, but only back it off slightly.

    Or buy another one from autometer. Either way you don’t need to drain the oil.


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  3. #3
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    Leaking oil sending unit

    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    Yes, you changed the sending unit back then. I’ve always had luck just snugging it up. You could try to loosen just enough to squeeze a bit of silicone or whatever your weapon of choice and snug it back up, but only back it off slightly.

    Or buy another one from autometer. Either way you don’t need to drain the oil.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Thanks again Bob. I’ve tightened and loosened it several times. Looser is way leakier, and it can’t get any tighter. But it’s full of oil right? So it has a valve that closes when it’s removed?

    Wouldn’t the LPS just have a standard sending unit from a Crown Vic? Why autometer?

    Sorry for all the questions.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  4. #4
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    Leaking oil sending unit

    Just did a quick check and looks like folks bought the real autometer OP gauge and sending unit from Jegs, Summit, etc.

    For now I’ll try putting a nylon washer behind it coated with RTV, and if that doesn’t work I’ll see if I can locate just the sending unit. As I recall I bought the kit from Wes, and the gauge from DR way back when, but only have a part number for the gauge.


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    Last edited by Svashtar; 06-30-2019 at 08:50 PM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  5. #5
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    I don’t think you can remove the stud without hurting something on the inside? I’ve never attempted it but I would assume it’s connected to something. That’s why I said to back it off slightly and try something of liquid form.

    As for oil, I’ve always just had the replacement ready upon removal of the old. You won’t lose much at all.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  6. #6
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    Looks to me like the diaphragm is perforated and your best bet is a new sender!!
    No Marauder

  7. #7
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    My $.02, just get a new sender and be done with it.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

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  8. #8
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    ^^^+10^^^
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  9. #9
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    The sending unit isn't "full of oil" it has failed and needs replacement
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  10. #10
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    Leaking oil sending unit

    Quote Originally Posted by Turbov6Bryan View Post
    The sending unit isn't "full of oil" it has failed and needs replacement
    Got it, thanks everyone. I had no idea how this unit works. I guessed that it held oil and calculated the pressure based on the OP in the housing. This morning my OP needle flopped all the way over to the right and isn’t budging, so you’re correct it’s toast.

    My mechanic gave me the autometer part #, 2242, and I have one coming from Summit.

    As long as the gasket isn’t leaking (paranoid about that) I’m good, but now feel like a dumbass because I’ll bet this was the leak all along and not the housing. (?). But WTH, at 120k it was due anyway...


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    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  11. #11
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    Buy a new one and use the old one for warranty and thank me later


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  12. #12
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    My first one failed and I cut it open to see what made it tick.......see photo!!
    Attached Images Attached Images
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  13. #13
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    Leaking oil sending unit

    Interesting! I got the new one on, made a bit of a mess. I figured about 1/6th of a quart came pouring out when I took it off.

    Now, no more leaks, but still no oil pressure. I changed out the solderless quick connection at the end of the wire that connects to the sender, but no good.

    There’s a break in the wire up there somewhere, or in the harness that was fastened to the oil filter housing, but I can’t find it. I’m afraid I might have to drain the new oil and pull the filter to access it. PITFA.

    BTW, can anyone tell me what this is? See attached pic. Brass colored cylinder in the middle of the pic just below the OF. Same size and shape as the sending unit. It spins easily and is wired by an offshoot of the same harness.



    Thanks.


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    Last edited by Svashtar; 07-06-2019 at 12:49 AM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  14. #14
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    Stick your head back and Look at that odd shaped brass cylinder thing is probably connected to your steering rack assembly and is the item that changes the steering quick ratio on
    The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies

    Current marauders
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbov6Bryan View Post
    Stick your head back and Look at that odd shaped brass cylinder thing is probably connected to your steering rack assembly and is the item that changes the steering quick ratio on
    ?? I’ll look again at the harness connection. Just know it can be easily rotated by hand, (and that I’ve ignored it all this time...)


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

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