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Thread: Radio Stuck

  1. #1
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    Radio Stuck

    A guy tried to remove my dead radio by inserting 4 rods into the holes, but the two left side rod tips (pot metal from somewhere) broke off, about the last 1/2” down inside. Now I’m boned because I can free up the right side, but not the left. I have new steel rods from a stereo store but they can’t get down in there. Can I drill those clips out? I don’t see any other option. What sucks is any new radio won’t be secure now (unless the clips are part of the radio?)

    Ironically I’m not interested in a new radio but have to get it out to follow the instruction to replace the blend door actuator.

    Some of you must have had misspent childhoods stealing radios, so thanks for any tips. .




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  2. #2
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    Forgive me if this is a dumb suggestion, but what about using a long slim magnet or a small screwdriver with a magnetized end and try to retrieve the rod tips that way and avoid any damage that way?

  3. #3
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    You will need to remove the entire dash bezel and the radio will come out with it.
    You will need to remove the left and right dash trims to access the 7 mm screws, there will also be two screws right above the dash speedo. That's the best way, then you can remove the radio from the bezel from the back.
    10 minute job, it's very easy
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ambitious1 View Post
    Forgive me if this is a dumb suggestion, but what about using a long slim magnet or a small screwdriver with a magnetized end and try to retrieve the rod tips that way and avoid any damage that way?
    Not dumb at all, but the metal isn’t magnetic! Already thought of that. He used these stiff pot metal pieces of corrugated like aluminum from some outdoor sign frame, don’t ask me why. I had another order going on from Crutchfield and they sent me the real deal, but no go.

    Appreciate the suggestion though.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbov6Bryan View Post
    You will need to remove the entire dash bezel and the radio will come out with it.
    You will need to remove the left and right dash trims to access the 7 mm screws, there will also be two screws right above the dash speedo. That's the best way, then you can remove the radio from the bezel from the back.
    10 minute job, it's very easy
    Ok, thanks Bryan. I have to replace the blend door actuator, so will figure it out then. I thought you had to remove the radio via the four access holes. Thanks for the information.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

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