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Thread: Over heating only with AC on

  1. #1
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    Over heating only with AC on

    2005 lx sport.

    Car will overheat while on park or even when driving on highway with ac on. 180 degrees thermostat and tuned by marty. Once the ac is off, temp will drop down to 190-195f. Now this is in 90 degrees weather and higher. With ac on, temp will rise to 220 and thats when i will shut ac off. Ive hosed down the radiator fins and condensor twice. Removed thermostat and tested in boiling water and its good. Fan is working as it should. Ac on, fan speed goes up. What am i looking for here?
    I should also say that this started happening after my small engine build. I added edelbrock intake manifold, comp cam stage 2 with valve springs and rebuilt heads from modularheadspeedshop. 10.5"converter and some other small goodies. I do have a stewart water pump which was working great on my stock motor. Stainless works long tubes with 2.5" exhaust.

    So why after this build im getting overheating issues with ac on.

  2. #2
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    I wish I could help but the problem as you state it certainly does not make much sense. I know you already knew that otherwise would not be asking. Possibly, the facts as you state them are not like you think they are. Maybe the fan is not running when you think it is.
    i just went through a similar overheating situation with my 07 CV. Turned out both electrical connectors (before and after fan control module, not sure if you have this module on an 05, maybe not but you must have some electrical connectors) were defective. If you have an intermittent connection on one of these pigtail connectors, you will overheat rather quickly. They are easy to replace but fan current draw is high so you must insure a strong butt connection. Ideally a soldered connection which can be a pita due to the location. Just some food for thought.

  3. #3
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    Are you sure 220* is "Hot"? Do you have the OEM Fan and shrouding? Do you have the OEM front air dam?
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  4. #4
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    Garden hose won't touch the fur stuck in the condenser. Try using a pressure washer
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbov6Bryan View Post
    Garden hose won't touch the fur stuck in the condenser. Try using a pressure washer
    Agreed. Separate the radiator from the condenser and and get a real look..


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  6. #6
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    I have a question though, why would this issue just happen after the new engine install? Can cams and new heads do such a difference in heat? I also have a cowl hood from classglass which should with air circulation.

    Oem fan and shrouding are still there. I have notice that the fins on the condensor are pretty shot. The bottom portion is are pretty much closed in certain spots. But once again, this issue just started after new engine installed. I will take a closer look at all this. Is there a way to check the fan with a voltmeter?

  7. #7
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    Warmer weather and bad timing? I assume there’s no air trapped hence why I didn’t bother with the go to “burp it”.

    But only a stuck thermostat, small head gasket leak, clogged cooling passages, plugged up radiator, and an air trap can cause what you describe.




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  8. #8
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    Brand new oem 180 stat. I removed it before yesturday, brought it home and put it in a pot with boiling water and the state open. I waited for water to boil at 170 and up slowly.

    If i have the system flushed, will it help elimate air traps?

  9. #9
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    no flushing will not help with trapped air and can actually cause more

    usually trapped air causes the temp gauge to keep climbing up and then temp drops quickly while moving or revving the engine (after the thermo opens)

    220 is perfectly fine nothing to worry about. If it gets over 230 then that should be of concern. But most likely your radiator is blocked off down low as it pretty common. Remove the condenser and clean it out and it should be better. Yea those modifications especially the converter can cause the cooling system to work harder which is common.

  10. #10
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    Plugs and gap?


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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1Marauder View Post
    Plugs and gap?
    Ngk tr6 gapped at .45 as per martys recommandations.

  12. #12
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    By the way, i have steeda ud pulleys installed. Crank and water pump only. Alternator pulley left stock. Once again, these were installed in my last stock motor and ran no issues. Park rpm bumped to 1000 and drive to 800 due to loud stereo.

  13. #13
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    "The bottom portion is are pretty much closed in certain spots." - No air flow no remove heat.

    Do you have the OEM front air dam?
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  14. #14
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    I experienced a weird situation with my '05 Mustang GT not long ago. In the middle of a 125 mile trip on what was the hottest day of the year (at the time - mid 90s) I stopped for fuel. Upon restart, I noticed the a/c had stopped working and the a/c clutch had an irregular cycle, with the motor nearly shutting off whenever the clutch engaged. With my 'damn the torpedoes' attitude, I began driving anyway as the a/c began working correctly and the gauges didn't show anything abnormal. Drove another 50 miles normally, stopped to have the car hand washed.

    Upon departure, I noticed the a/c was misbehaving again but decided to continue. A few blocks later, the 'engine overheat warning' illuminated and I immediately pulled into the nearby parking lot with coolant exiting the overflow tank. Phoned AAA and had Mustang transported to a local shop I was familiar with. Conclusion? New OEM fan assembly installed with Mustang operating correctly ever since.

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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by sailsmen View Post
    "The bottom portion is are pretty much closed in certain spots." - No air flow no remove heat.

    Do you have the OEM front air dam?
    I do have the oem front air damn. Its still in pretty good shape to.

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