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Thread: Manual swap choices

  1. #1
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    Manual swap choices

    Hello
    Am working on a cobra swap and I already have the engine and luckely it has a 2.3 Whipple on it )

    And now am curious what transmission do I go with, no way am keeping the automatic in it
    I've got Couple of options but not much of a knowledge in swapping it.
    Tr-6060/ I've seen Bob's full thread on it and I couldn't find it cheap it's so expensive.

    T56/ less expensive than the tr6060 but I've no idea how I fit it in the Marauder or where the shifter position in the cabin will be.

    T56 magnum xl / this is the cheapest one I've found and the most desirable to me do to the high tourqe rating and the low price I found because it's lightly used, and also I have no idea if it will fit or not or maybe I won't be able to get the shifter to be in the correct position in the cabin because the shifter sits far back in the transmission.

    If anyone can help me out please? Any information about swapping the t56 and the t56 magnum xl to the Marauder?? Or anything regarding the shifter fitment in the cabin? And what driveshaft to use? That would be awesome.

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

  2. #2
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    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  3. #3
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    How are you finding the Magnum cheaper than the T56 that they built a billion of?

    Regardless a magnum is not only beefier but more adaptable as there is two different shifter locations you can use if I recall. Find a pic online of the remote mount shifter on a TR6060 and see how far off the back of the trans it hangs. Now shorten it an 1 1/2” and that is your counsel. So the rear mounting on the Magnum is probably way short I’d imagine.. Also, since the TR6060 is basically a modernized T56, and the Magnum is the next best variation, chances are the 6060 shifter stub “might” adapt over to the Magnum. It would also have to have two ears for the two support rods on the shifter too though. If it would work then I’d use a factory GT500 shifter since it is steel and easier to modify than an aluminum one like I did on mine.

    The only Magnum I’ve seen in a Marauder was the one Dennis Reinhardt did years back in Master’s car and the shifter extension had to be bent back 90 degrees right out of the floor, then travel to the rear a few inches, then bent 90 degrees up. That has GOT to be the worst feeling shifter ever!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  4. #4
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    Manual swap choices



    The magnum is in this car, the shifter that comes with it and a custom made offset so you don’t punch the dash on the up shifts

    Also done with the full cobra swap
    Besides the alternator bracket which is now available made out of 1/4” plasma cut stainless




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  5. #5
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    I have a T56-Magnum in mine, I bought the kit through Chris @ ADTR. He'll let you mix/match parts, I didn't like the centerforce dual friction and removed it after about 600 miles. I have a Mcleod RXT which I like much much more.

    I still have plenty of things to tweak, I'm not 100% happy with it but its getting better the more I drive it and tinker with things. Honestly if I had to do it all over again I'd probably consider a 6R80 swap, especially now that I have the M5.



    2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005

    2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
    440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
    2063/3214

    (Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
    5377/7838

    2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB

    1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    How are you finding the Magnum cheaper than the T56 that they built a billion of?

    Regardless a magnum is not only beefier but more adaptable as there is two different shifter locations you can use if I recall. Find a pic online of the remote mount shifter on a TR6060 and see how far off the back of the trans it hangs. Now shorten it an 1 1/2” and that is your counsel. So the rear mounting on the Magnum is probably way short I’d imagine.. Also, since the TR6060 is basically a modernized T56, and the Magnum is the next best variation, chances are the 6060 shifter stub “might” adapt over to the Magnum. It would also have to have two ears for the two support rods on the shifter too though. If it would work then I’d use a factory GT500 shifter since it is steel and easier to modify than an aluminum one like I did on mine.

    The only Magnum I’ve seen in a Marauder was the one Dennis Reinhardt did years back in Master’s car and the shifter extension had to be bent back 90 degrees right out of the floor, then travel to the rear a few inches, then bent 90 degrees up. That has GOT to be the worst feeling shifter ever!




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Well it's just the prices here are different
    Tr6060 around 3700$
    T56 around 2600$
    T56 magnum xl around 1800$
    All used

    As for modifying the tr6060 shifter that is a good idea, but yeah like you said I think I have to see the length between the two.
    Thanks I really appreciate it

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by mm svt View Post


    The magnum is in this car, the shifter that comes with it and a custom made offset so you don’t punch the dash on the up shifts

    Also done with the full cobra swap
    Besides the alternator bracket which is now available made out of 1/4” plasma cut stainless




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I found the magnum xl!! Which I believe the shifter sits far back is it what you got in it?
    And where did you got the alternator bracket?

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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by offroadkarter View Post
    I have a T56-Magnum in mine, I bought the kit through Chris @ ADTR. He'll let you mix/match parts, I didn't like the centerforce dual friction and removed it after about 600 miles. I have a Mcleod RXT which I like much much more.

    I still have plenty of things to tweak, I'm not 100% happy with it but its getting better the more I drive it and tinker with things. Honestly if I had to do it all over again I'd probably consider a 6R80 swap, especially now that I have the M5.

    No I've found the magnum xl not the magnum and luckely I've found killer deal on a McLeod RST and I bought it, to me I like the sports cars with manual not with auto.

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  9. #9
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    Check my reply to Bob and you will understand how expensive the kit from adtr.net lol.

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  10. #10
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    According to this chart it appears a Magnum XL is damn near a direct fit.

    It shows front of bell housing to center of shifter for a GT 500 at 36” (estimated) and it shows the XL at 34.9”.

    Remember I had to shorten my shifter right around an 1 1/2” if my memory is correct. That would put the XL pretty much dead nuts with a far superior shifter over the remote one.

    Plus it has a splined tail shaft which is a HUGE win over the fixed yoke that I have..

    https://core-shifters.com/pages/shifter-distances


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    According to this chart it appears a Magnum XL is damn near a direct fit.

    It shows front of bell housing to center of shifter for a GT 500 at 36” (estimated) and it shows the XL at 34.9”.

    Remember I had to shorten my shifter right around an 1 1/2” if my memory is correct. That would put the XL pretty much dead nuts with a far superior shifter over the remote one.

    Plus it has a splined tail shaft which is a HUGE win over the fixed yoke that I have..

    https://core-shifters.com/pages/shifter-distances


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    That's awesome I guess I'll go with the magnum xl then
    Thanks I really appreciate it

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  12. #12
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    Still need the bell housing, clutch and cable and shifter extension that fits what you want, the short throw is very close to the gauges, might have to have ours reproduced because it gets close to the opening of the marauder console in first, second, sixth and reverse. Also we use South Bend clutch but they are also the manufacturer of DXL





    The alternator bracket, I designed and had it engineered and manufactured by edgewater manufacturing in buchanan mi.


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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mm svt View Post
    Still need the bell housing, clutch and cable and shifter extension that fits what you want, the short throw is very close to the gauges, might have to have ours reproduced because it gets close to the opening of the marauder console in first, second, sixth and reverse. Also we use South Bend clutch but they are also the manufacturer of DXL





    The alternator bracket, I designed and had it engineered and manufactured by edgewater manufacturing in buchanan mi.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I think I'll go with the t56 magnum xl and see what can I do to mount the shifter, clutch wise I guess I'll have to go hydraulic, if It was a success I'll post a thread on it
    Thanks for the help everyone

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mm svt View Post
    Still need the bell housing, clutch and cable and shifter extension that fits what you want, the short throw is very close to the gauges, might have to have ours reproduced because it gets close to the opening of the marauder console in first, second, sixth and reverse. Also we use South Bend clutch but they are also the manufacturer of DXL





    The alternator bracket, I designed and had it engineered and manufactured by edgewater manufacturing in buchanan mi.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I had to use a 3” extension cut and modified to around 1 1/2” to achieve factory Marauder shifter height and to cure hitting the shifter boot in 1,3,5,& especially reverse. Worked perfect.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by M91 View Post
    I think I'll go with the t56 magnum xl and see what can I do to mount the shifter, clutch wise I guess I'll have to go hydraulic, if It was a success I'll post a thread on it
    Thanks for the help everyone

    Sent from my ONEPLUS A6013 using Tapatalk
    The Magnum XL is only hydraulic I believe. I originally tried using the tiny stock GT500 master cylinder. After going thru five of them in what should have been a perfect set up I redesigned the whole set up to something so much more simplistic using Tick Performance’s 98-02 F body master.

    I mounted it directly under the brake booster, almost touching it’s so close. I also shaved the angled part of the firewall mount to create twice the angle it came with and I had to cut the adjustment rod down about an inch but that will depend on your pedals. As for attaching the rod to the pedal I simply used a 3/8” stainless bolt and whatever spacers needed to get it lined up perfect and drilled a hole about half way up the pedal.

    To use this you will also need the GM to Ford hydraulic adaptor. As for the fluid reservoir, I was originally using a cheap Wilwood one but ended up just drilling and taping the brake reservoir and sharing that with both to tidy up the engine bay. That’s all they do on the Mustangs.


    https://www.ebay.com/i/113740935919?...CABEgJeqvD_BwE




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

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