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Thread: Brake line leak! X@#$%

  1. #1
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    Brake line leak! X@#$%

    Went to the Ocean City MD show with the zombie MM. Car ran great, had a fantastic time ---saw 4 MM's two blacks, a DTR and a SB. Never met up with any of them at the shows. The lower part of the island flooded badly due to full moon + high tide, that created chaos at the inlet where the main show is held. Nevertheless....3,000 street/rat/rest/muscle cars cruised the strips at all hours. Coming home, brakes felt a little loose as I pulled into the driveay...then the PUDDLE. A drip coming out of the center metal line on the pass frame rail.

    This line goes from the ABS block to the left rear, is one piece. I'm calling the local shop MON to see what they would charge to replace it, looks like 1/4" OD steel line encased in plastic. Don't care about the plastic. I don't have the Eastwood kit to make a good flare, if it's $300 or less, I'm in for the repair. Any prior experience with this? I figured don't bother junkyard diving to get a cop-car 200,000 mile line on its last legs too...Thoughts?

  2. #2
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    Pretty sure all the lines are still available from Ford, you might have to google Crown Victoria brake line, but they are all the same.
    2003 DBP # 153 Whipple 3.4 in coming soon
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  3. #3
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    ^Yup.
    Even if not available from Ford, they're available in the aftermarket. Any parts store worth a damn should have them.
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  4. #4
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    keep in mind that only applies up north

    down here in the south we have no rust issues so none of the parts stores stock any brake lines.
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  5. #5
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    It wouldn’t hurt to at least check with Ford on revised brake line sets. A few years ago GM released around 30 different model full brake line sets designed around obstacles after so many complaints. They come with connectors that you can actually access instead of one piece long runs and the whole vehicle kit is quite inexpensive.




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  6. #6
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    Depending on your budget and whether they are still available, the TCE Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hose Kit for $170 is a nice upgrade:

    http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/marauder/kits-17/

  7. #7
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    Thanks guys: update is I got a spool of NiCu line, MUCH easier to fab/flare than steel, and I'm doing it myself. Stay tuned.

    BTW - i don't think you can get these lines off with the body still on there. This is the long section from the front frame under the steering shaft to the rear feed to the left rear wheel cylinder. FYI Volvo uses these types not steel since NiCu does not corrode. So far the fitting in front is rusted to $%# so I'm plumbiong all the way to the ABS block. That flare fitting is loosened now. Waiting for a tool from Amazon a pipe reamer/deburring tool. If you had a street rod you'd be using this stuff to run your lines.

  8. #8
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    That copper nickel brake line material is awesome. Sooooo much easier than the old standard steel. You can make a really good looking brake line with little experience and not need much for tools. Plus they look great polished.

  9. #9
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  10. #10
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    Got it done! Quick summary:

    1.Use the 3/16 Ni-Cu line, also known as 4.75mm. WAY easier than flaring steel or stainless steel. Available in 25 ft coils
    2.These cars use ISO Bubble flares, need a tool for that (Amazon)
    3.Route it using a tubing bender, for the close bends up by the ABS block, forget 100% factory routing . OEM was installed before the body was dropped on the frame.
    4.Threaded end is 10mm x 1.0.
    5.This Nickel copper tubing is OEM for Volvo because it never rusts.
    6.Try to get flares on before you install, I did two flares but had to shorten the line, then had to do the 2nd flare on the car --tough job vs. the vice/workbench.
    7.Use light oil on the die /tubing end before you flare, seems to turn out better.

    I'm getting the system flushed/bled at a shop with a ABS machine this week. Zombie Marauder is back in action!
    Last edited by Agent2006; 11-16-2019 at 06:10 PM. Reason: spelling

  11. #11
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    Update-rear caliper bleed screws broke off at the shop, now I'm buying two new calipers. I figure the pistons freezing in the bores wasn't far behind....

  12. #12
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    Remember the Fred Flintstone braking technique!

    Hope you don't have to use it.
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  13. #13
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    ...shows you how much more the fronts contribute to braking. Seems to stop about the same but pedal is not as firm...

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Agent2006 View Post
    Went to the Ocean City MD show with the zombie MM.
    Your threads are often the best reads here on mm.net. You took a beater that everyone had given up on and made it desirable again! You seem to know what in heck you are doing too. You are an inspiration to me and many others here for sure.

    What have I accomplished with my Marauder recently? Finishing up quarterly 'battery maintenance' this morning after moving the Deltran Battery Tender (smart charger) from Marauder to Ranger. Currently averaging 10 years of service from my auto batteries and 5+ years from my motorcycle batteries.

    Current Garage:

    2004 DTR Marauder
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  15. #15
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    Thanks Invective,

    As for batteries, my luck is not that great. My plan is: to only buy motorcraft and replace them every three years! LOL. Though my 2006 MGM had a 7 yr old Interstate which still was holding a charge just fine...

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