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Thread: Re: Advice Requested / Upgrade from 3.55 to 4.10 gears

  1. #1
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    Re: Advice Requested / Upgrade from 3.55 to 4.10 gears

    Looking for some advice for those that know. We're going to be doing the upgrade from the 3.55 to 4.10 gears on one of our MMs. Other than the actual tools, are these the only parts we need?

    a) Ford Performance M-4209-88410 - Ford Performance Parts Ring and Pinion Sets (Gear, Ring and Pinion, 4.10:1 Ratio, Ford, 8.8 in., Set)
    b) Ford Performance M-4210-C3 - Ford Performance Parts Ring and Pinion Installation Kits (
    Ring and Pinion Installation Kit, Ford, 8.8 in., Kit).

    For those that have done it, anything unusual we should be on the lookout for? Thank you in advance.

  2. #2
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    I'd do the following:

    8.8 rear end cover: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
    Increases the fluid capacity, supports for the bearing caps, easy to refill and drain. NOTE: put teflon tape on the bearing support screws to prevent leaks.

    8.8 differential bearing cap stud kit.

    Use synthetic fluid so you won't need to add friction modifier.

    Consider rebuilding the carrier with carbon fiber clutches (add and additional clutch disk).

    No need for a gasket, use silicone just like the factory did.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  3. #3
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    Timbuk3, MI
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    Post


    • Rear Axle Lubricant Synthetic 75W-140
    • Friction Modifier

      (recommended)
      .
    • Aluminum Metal Matrix Drive Shaft
    • METCO Drive Shaft Safety Loop
    • Axle Girdle

  4. #4
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    consider changing out the LSD while in there, if yours is weak. I have used OEM, Auburn, and (currently) Eaton.
    BUCKWHEAT 03 MM 300A-August, '02 mfgr, black w/ blue metallic clearcoat, 94,000 miles, Texid stroker 5.0, #15 Kool-Aide w/ SnakeBite porting, Venom cooling, and upgraded to M122, 3873 of 7839

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BUCKWHEAT View Post
    consider changing out the LSD while in there, if yours is weak. I have used OEM, Auburn, and (currently) Eaton.
    Which one did you like the best or find the most reliable / strongest?

  6. #6
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    Location
    Blue Springs Missouri
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    I am in the process of doing this now also. I just replied in another post just over the weekend regarding this. My installer is a ford technician with a lot of experience doing these. He told me to stay away from ford Performance parts. They are not equal to ford OEM parts.

    So I bought brand new 4.10 gears on amazon from a ford dealer. As for the installation kit, the same goes for that. OEM ford parts only. I ordered evrything separate. You definitely don’t want to use the crappy shims in those kits. 1 piece OEM ford shims only. If you order the new gears from the dealer you’ll also receive the ring gear bolts, which you need, pinion bearings, seal, nut and crush sleeve. This makes buying it this way a really good deal. All of those components are OEM also. I also am replacing the carrier bearings with OEM ford bearings. OEM ford bearings are koyo and they’re great. Stick with them even over Timken.

    I am also doing a 31 spline upgrade so I acquired a used carrier and rebuilt it with the carbon fiber clutches from the Terminator and GT500. Turbov6brian and I grabbed some good used axles from a P71 for $20 each. The carrier was from the same car and cost me $30. I ordered new OEM ford wheel bearings and seals from amazon to.

    I would suggest using the crush sleeve eliminator instead of the stock crush sleeve. Get that on amazon too.

    Tasca has decent pricing on these parts and amazon is right there with them with free shipping and returns if there’s an issue. I still have all of my notes from researching this job. I just got part numbers from Tasca website.

    if you have any questions just ask. Your stock rear end has gone this long with quality OEM parts. Don’t cheap out on them and you should get the same quality out of your upgrade.
    Last edited by Blakshukvw; 10-29-2019 at 10:42 AM.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blakshukvw View Post
    I am in the process of doing this now also. I just replied in another post just over the weekend regarding this. My installer is a ford technician with a lot of experience doing these. He told me to stay away from ford Performance parts. They are not equal to ford OEM parts.

    So I bought brand new 4.10 gears on amazon from a ford dealer. As for the installation kit, the same goes for that. OEM ford parts only. I ordered evrything separate. You definitely don’t want to use the crappy shims in those kits. 1 piece OEM ford shims only. If you order the new gears from the dealer you’ll also receive the ring gear bolts, which you need, pinion bearings, seal, nut and crush sleeve. This makes buying it this way a really good deal. All of those components are OEM also. I also am replacing the carrier bearings with OEM ford bearings. OEM ford bearings are koyo and they’re great. Stick with them even over Timken.

    I am also doing a 31 spline upgrade so I acquired a used carrier and rebuilt it with the carbon fiber clutches from the Terminator and GT500. Turbov6brian and I grabbed some good used axles from a P71 for $20 each. The carrier was from the same car and cost me $30. I ordered new OEM ford wheel bearings and seals from amazon to.

    I would suggest using the crush sleeve eliminator instead of the stock crush sleeve. Get that on amazon too.

    Tasca has decent pricing on these parts and amazon is right there with them with free shipping and returns if there’s an issue. I still have all of my notes from researching this job. I just got part numbers from Tasca website.

    if you have any questions just ask. Your stock rear end has gone this long with quality OEM parts. Don’t cheap out on them and you should get the same quality out of your upgrade.
    I had Ford Racing 4.10's installed over 80k miles ago. Not one single issue, in fact the installer used the same shims in the same positions as the original setup. I'd highly recommend the Ford Racing gears.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  8. #8
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    I bought the
    cobra drive flange
    Crush sleeve elminator
    Carrier studs/nuts
    Ford cover with the load bolts for carrier caps
    31 spline chromosome shafts
    Ford racing install kit
    Yukon duragrip
    Ford racing 4.10s

    I regret the duragrip. But the Ford racing gears have held up nicely. Matter of fact I blew the duragrip launching at the track with drag radials, 11 psi of boost and a 4700 lb car. 4.10s still look great...... Dura grip not so much
    2019-10-05_01-29-35 by Cheapthrillb2, on Flickr
    2019-10-05_03-44-17 by Cheapthrillb2, on Flickr




    I'm switching back to 3.55 and going with a true trac for round 2.




    I've seen a few factory trac lock carriers fail, like break in half fail. I'm estimating over 750 hp to the wheels. I don't trust the factory carrier.

    2019-10-29_03-15-02 by Cheapthrillb2, on Flickr
    Last edited by cheapthrillb2; 10-29-2019 at 12:22 PM.
    2003 budget built marauder-LM7 5.3 SBE 4L80E VS racing 78/75 turbo and other things
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    I had Ford Racing 4.10's installed over 80k miles ago. Not one single issue, in fact the installer used the same shims in the same positions as the original setup. I'd highly recommend the Ford Racing gears.
    Maybe all has been fine, but why??? Why risk it? Why use inferior components just to save a few bucks? My ford built rear end has 230k and it’s still great. No bearing or gear noise. Personally, I’d rather know if I’m spending the money that the components are OEM quality. Just my $.02
    The pricing for the racing gear set does not include the associated parts that the OEM gear set comes with making the OEM gear set an even better deal.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blakshukvw View Post
    Maybe all has been fine, but why??? Why risk it? Why use inferior components just to save a few bucks? My ford built rear end has 230k and it’s still great. No bearing or gear noise. Personally, I’d rather know if I’m spending the money that the components are OEM quality. Just my $.02
    The pricing for the racing gear set does not include the associated parts that the OEM gear set comes with making the OEM gear set an even better deal.
    Why are the Ford Performance parts inferior?

    https://performanceparts.ford.com/part/M-4209-88315
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  11. #11
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    The gears may be the same. The install kits are not great for sure. I couldn’t find definitive info on what brand bearings were used in the kits plus they sell them with the crap shims. Those 2 issues and the word of my ford tech were enough for me. Again though the OEM kit includes several components that are needed anyway for less than $100 more dollars. Including the gt500 pinion bearing.

    Heres what else I found on the bearings. Reading through reviews on amazon for timken bearings, a buyer left a review stating that when he received his bearings they were in a timken box but were not marked timken on the bearings themselves. After inquiring to timken that said that they do not make every bearing for all applications but that they use outside suppliers to source them from and rebox them under their label.

    The bearing manufacturer was extremely important to me. When I read that, and with the advice from my installer, I decided on nothing but OEM. You’re free to use what you want I’m just offering the advice I was given by a ford tech and what I found in my exhaustive research.
    Last edited by Blakshukvw; 10-29-2019 at 04:29 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ambitious1 View Post
    Which one did you like the best or find the most reliable / strongest?
    Ford burned out quickest. Auburn worked well & then quit behind the 4:30s. Still trying to trash the Eaton. Will buy Eaton again.
    BUCKWHEAT 03 MM 300A-August, '02 mfgr, black w/ blue metallic clearcoat, 94,000 miles, Texid stroker 5.0, #15 Kool-Aide w/ SnakeBite porting, Venom cooling, and upgraded to M122, 3873 of 7839

  13. #13
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    I still have the original stock eaton locker in my 98 ls1 camaro and it has been trouble free since day 1

    http://www.efidynotuning.com/bounquisha.jpg
    '03 Marauder 300A / Forged 11:1 Eaton @ 17 lbs - 87 Octane
    decipha @ EFIDynoTuning

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blakshukvw View Post
    The gears may be the same. The install kits are not great for sure. I couldn’t find definitive info on what brand bearings were used in the kits plus they sell them with the crap shims. Those 2 issues and the word of my ford tech were enough for me. Again though the OEM kit includes several components that are needed anyway for less than $100 more dollars. Including the gt500 pinion bearing.

    Heres what else I found on the bearings. Reading through reviews on amazon for timken bearings, a buyer left a review stating that when he received his bearings they were in a timken box but were not marked timken on the bearings themselves. After inquiring to timken that said that they do not make every bearing for all applications but that they use outside suppliers to source them from and rebox them under their label.

    The bearing manufacturer was extremely important to me. When I read that, and with the advice from my installer, I decided on nothing but OEM. You’re free to use what you want I’m just offering the advice I was given by a ford tech and what I found in my exhaustive research.
    Motive used to make some gear sets for Ford and they were known to howl some. I believe they were 3.90’s and 4.30’s. As far as I’ve researched all gear sets are now made in house.


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  15. #15
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    If someone doesn’t have access to an assortment of factory Ford carriers shims, I found Yukon gear makes an adustable interlocking shim Kit. This way the shins can’t work there way out.

    Yukon Gear & Axle (SK SS12) Super Carrier Shim Kit for Ford 8.8″, GM 12 bolt car & truck, 8.6 & Vette https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0078U8D4A..._RkyUDbVR2V8M0
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

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