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Thread: DR rear engine cooling mod leak

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    If you need a brass coupler (I'm saying it again) go to home depot or lowes and ask for a 3/4" PEX coupler

    Before you ask 3/4" PEX = 5/8" barb
    Thanks, but I have the Dorman 5/8” x 5/8” x 5/8” tees, which work fine. They’re meant for heater hose, and were easy to install and more importantly to remove.


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    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by gdmjoe View Post
    If the hose is anything like that for a Crown Victoria or Grand Marquis you may want to consider FoMoCo's severe service alternatives. *Though NOT inexpensive.

    One of these ...


    *Part # 3W7Z-18472-AC

    -or-


    *Part # 3W7Z-18472-AD
    .
    Thanks, I’m set now, but if these are dual ID they would work well.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    Thanks, but I have the Dorman 5/8” x 5/8” x 5/8” tees, which work fine. They’re meant for heater hose, and were easy to install and more importantly to remove.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Out of curiosity how are you routing the cooling mod?
    in/out

  4. #34
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    So, here’s some final observations, in case anyone else ever goes through this mess. Based on the responses I’m guessing that this hasn’t been a replacement issue yet for most people. What you need to reproduce the rear engine cooling mod setup back behind the head on the passenger side:

    (I didn’t know this because I just dumped the parts off with my mechanic to install when he did my trans rebuild right after I bought the car, and have no recollection of what the OEM setup looked like.)

    The OEM hose referenced above (Dayco 87604) is a 3/4” to 5/8” reduction hose that’s 13” long. It has a 4.5” section starting at 3/4” then turns 90 degrees for another 11” or so, down to 5/8” meant to go (I’m assuming because that’s the only place I can see it fits) from the 3/4” heater inlet bib on the firewall to the 5/8” bib behind the engine. (Please correct me if I’m missing something.)

    That means that the poorly designed 3/4” bib up against the A/C that I fought with, incorrectly assuming it was a 5/8” diameter, must be the rear engine cooling mod bib?

    So the only way this can go together is:

    1) 3/4” to 5/8” reduction hose from the firewall to the 5/8” left leg of the tee, about 8” of hose;

    2) 5/8” to 5/8” hose from the right leg of the tee to the highest 5/8” bib behind the engine, about 3.5” of hose;

    3) 3/4” to 5/8” reduction hose from the poorly placed extreme angle lower 3/4” bib stupidly placed 1/4” from the A/C to the 5/8” bottom leg of the tee, about 4.25” of hose.

    I found two things: the original 3/4” hose from the firewall to the left leg of the tee was cut nearly 3” too long. That forced it into a hump that pressed into the A/C power connection, putting a severe dent into it, and

    The 3/4” to 5/8” portion of hose from the lower bib by the A/C to the bottom tee still has a slight kink in it; the angle is too extreme and I’m jamming a straight piece of hose onto it. The A/C box is in the way and it has no room to straighten; but the piece I replaced was curved with no kink, so I don’t know where it came from. Part of the RECM I assume. Still, the new hose should work, and maybe pressure will open it up a bit more.

    Napa had the OEM hose to the firewall, but I cut it for the bottom 3/4” bib and didn’t want to pay $22 for a second one, so reused the original upper hose for now, after cutting 3” off the 5/8” end. It looks fine and fits better now. I’ll pick up a new one for $8 from Rockauto as a spare.

    Finally, I fought for an hour to remove and later hours to replace the spring clamps on the lower hose, one larger diameter down at the 3/4” bib, one smaller diameter at the top where it meets the 5/8” bottom leg of the tee. Depending on where the clamp wings were placed, they either tore up the A/C box or were in the way, there was no room for snap ring pliers, and regular pliers tore up the back of the valve cover.

    I finally just went with regular hose clamps, and used a 12” 1/4” drive extension with an 8 mm wobbly to tighten them. Seems obvious now, but they give way more room and took maybe 5 minutes to install both. The old spring clamps were installed from the underside I guess, and I shouldn’t have wasted time with them.

    If you ever have to replace these hoses do it one hose, one clamp at a time, starting with the bottom hose, feeding the tee in as you go. Don’t try to assemble the three hoses on the tee and do it together.

    If I had to do it again I figure 60-90 minutes tops, but I’d know to start with the right hoses for a start.

    Oh, I figured out that the way it was routed before put continuous side pressure on the bottom leg of the plastic tee, so it’s no wonder it broke there.

    Thanks to everybody for their input. I’m putting the cowls back now and will burp the system, and keep my fingers crossed nothing leaks.

    Here’s a pic of the assembly with the new hoses and tee.








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    Last edited by Svashtar; 01-03-2020 at 03:46 PM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  5. #35
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    Glad to see you won!


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  6. #36
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    Glad to see you won!


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    Thanks for your help! Especially the info on the wiper cowls. Just getting rid of 3 lbs of dirt and leaves was worth it, not to mention the extra room.

    By the way, this upper tee assembly (in the attached pic) was also changed out for a metal tee, which took just a couple of minutes.

    It got me thinking though, that center hose that disappears behind the engine and over to the drivers side? No idea exactly what it’s routing water for, but I dread the day that guy finally gives out, because I don’t see how it could be changed without lifting up the engine to get behind it. Looks like it’s cable tied off in a couple places as well.

    But I’ll deal with that when the time comes. Tomorrow, it’s fixing the drivers side door actuator (the door rivet failed.). I did the passenger side last year. Funny thing: the inside door panel was full of garbage and old rivet heads LOL! The SOB who installed everything emptied his pockets into the door panel rather than using the trash. (After all, at Ford, QUALITY IS JOB 1! :-))




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    Last edited by Svashtar; 01-03-2020 at 11:44 PM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post

    It got me thinking though, that center hose that disappears behind the engine and over to the drivers side? No idea exactly what it’s routing water for, but I dread the day that guy finally gives out, because I don’t see how it could be changed without lifting up the engine to get behind it. Looks like it’s cable tied off in a couple places as well.

    IIRC, that hose reaches to a similar bib/outlet (to the passenger side) on the back of the driver's head and passes by the egr tube. Mine baked and eventually cracked due to heat from that. You can replace it by feel without lifting the motor. I sleeved mine in a heatshield tube when I replaced it and routed it away from the egr as best I could. I recommend adding extra/new cable ties to keep yours well away from it.
    2003 300B
    VIN: 677166, #6738 of 7839
    built: 2/13/03
    wrty start: 5/28/03
    69,810 miles @ adoption from Marauder57 02/21/07
    84,197 on 02/21/08
    95,776 on 02/21/09
    109,301 on 02/21/10
    121,447 on 02/21/11
    125,925 on 02/26/12
    130,375 on 01/01/13
    134,831 on 2/4/14
    149,441 on 2/24/18
    Dark Blue Pearl, #128 of 327

    Inherited mods: 4.10's, 180 'stat, Addco Rear Sway Bar, Ceramic-coated Cobra Manifolds, DR's X-Pipe kit w/hi-flow cats, KVR X-Drilled Brake Rotors (rear), PI 3000 TC, DR's Tranny Upgrade 1.5, DR's Rear Engine Cooling Mod, Metal Matrix Drive Shaft, Zack-Mack Rear U&L Control Arms.

    My mods: aluminum lower grill screen, tranny cooler, DR's NoIC Novi SL 1200 S/C kit self-installed 8/11-8/14/08, Zack's tranny tune, dyno tuned by Justin Starkey @ VMP Tuning: 447 RWHP/386 RWTQ. DDM 5000k HIDs, KB BAP w/upgraded wiring, RacerX modded FPDM, front springs cut 1.25 coils

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Paul View Post
    IIRC, that hose reaches to a similar bib/outlet (to the passenger side) on the back of the driver's head and passes by the egr tube. Mine baked and eventually cracked due to heat from that. You can replace it by feel without lifting the motor. I sleeved mine in a heatshield tube when I replaced it and routed it away from the egr as best I could. I recommend adding extra/new cable ties to keep yours well away from it.
    Thanks for the info. I can look down the length of it from the left and see it cable tied off in at least two places underneath, and it just looks like a ***** to access. That you did it is reassuring, but I assume you had to take a lot off the top of the engine? I looked at the drivers side and couldn’t spot the bib it runs to.

    I’ll look at mine in relation to the egr tube. Moving it away from there and sheathing it is a good idea. I changed out my EGR a year ago, so hopefully it’s running cooler in any case.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  9. #39
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    I did it by feel, didn't even remove the wiper cowl. I don't remember for sure, but probably used my cell phone to take pictures back there to see what was what. Definitely did not remove the upper intake or even disconnect the egr. Maybe the bracket around it, but not the pipe. Of course, it was done at the same time as the other hoses back there, so they were out and that gave room. Also the fuel vapor solenoid thing was out.
    2003 300B
    VIN: 677166, #6738 of 7839
    built: 2/13/03
    wrty start: 5/28/03
    69,810 miles @ adoption from Marauder57 02/21/07
    84,197 on 02/21/08
    95,776 on 02/21/09
    109,301 on 02/21/10
    121,447 on 02/21/11
    125,925 on 02/26/12
    130,375 on 01/01/13
    134,831 on 2/4/14
    149,441 on 2/24/18
    Dark Blue Pearl, #128 of 327

    Inherited mods: 4.10's, 180 'stat, Addco Rear Sway Bar, Ceramic-coated Cobra Manifolds, DR's X-Pipe kit w/hi-flow cats, KVR X-Drilled Brake Rotors (rear), PI 3000 TC, DR's Tranny Upgrade 1.5, DR's Rear Engine Cooling Mod, Metal Matrix Drive Shaft, Zack-Mack Rear U&L Control Arms.

    My mods: aluminum lower grill screen, tranny cooler, DR's NoIC Novi SL 1200 S/C kit self-installed 8/11-8/14/08, Zack's tranny tune, dyno tuned by Justin Starkey @ VMP Tuning: 447 RWHP/386 RWTQ. DDM 5000k HIDs, KB BAP w/upgraded wiring, RacerX modded FPDM, front springs cut 1.25 coils

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