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Thread: DR rear engine cooling mod leak

  1. #1
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    My first day of a long-planned vacation, so naturally the MM springs a leak! I never should have done the DR rear engine cooling mod I guess, but when I had the tranny out in 2005 it seemed like a good idea. (As those hoses fail back there they’re going to cost me a fortune...)

    Anyway, looks like it’s at a cluster of three hoses joined by a plastic tee at the passenger side of the engine, and it looks like the bottom hose, the one oriented more vertically. I’m guessing it’s a 1/2” tee? I remember Fastblackmerc mentioning he changed those out for brass tees.

    Anyway, I’ve been in here twice before to do the blower motor speed control, but not this far down. I don’t know if it’s a cracked tee or bad hose. Here’s a couple of pics:

    I can pull off the heater hoses coming out of the firewall, as well as get the EGR solenoid out of the way to make room, but still not much room to work.

    Changing the tee would be easier than changing this hose; I have no idea how I’m going to get down there to replace that if it’s the problem.

    Thanks for any access tips here, (as well as any leads on where I could find a correct sized brass tee.)IMG_3293.jpg

    IMG_3294.jpg
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  2. #2
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    Pull the wiper cowl. 10 minute job with a phillips and an 8mm. TONS of room await you.


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    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    Pull the wiper cowl. 10 minute job with a phillips and an 8mm. TONS of room await you.


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    Bob, no offense, but are you pulling my leg? . The wiper cowl? But that doesn’t move the position of the firewall, which seems to be the limiting factor. (?) That AC box is also in the way.

    But OK, thanks, not the first time you’ve saved my ass. I never considered the cowl as anything that would give space inside the engine compartment. I’ll look for screws and try and figure out how to remove it and see if I can figure it out from there. Thanks again.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  4. #4
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    It’s step one to doing anything back there.

    Remove wiper arms
    Remove the Phillips screws from the top section.
    Remove the clips holding the upper cowl to lower cowl on the front edge
    Remove upper cowl
    Remove a few 8mm bolts
    Disconnect harness and washer hose and lift out the lower cowl

    Believe me it is way easier than it sounds. 2-3 minutes tops with a 1/4” battery impact after you’ve done it once. If you have trees and park outside removing the upper and cleaning out the lower drain is yearly maintenance.

    As for the Tee, most hardware stores will carry brass barbed tees or even pex tees will work fine.

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    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  5. #5
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    Take your time removing the screws and clips. They have a mind of their own, some like to jump in behind the motor. Been there done that.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    It’s step one to doing anything back there.

    Remove wiper arms
    Remove the Phillips screws from the top section.
    Remove the clips holding the upper cowl to lower cowl on the front edge
    Remove upper cowl
    Remove a few 8mm bolts
    Disconnect harness and washer hose and lift out the lower cowl

    Believe me it is way easier than it sounds. 2-3 minutes tops with a 1/4” battery impact after you’ve done it once. If you have trees and park outside removing the upper and cleaning out the lower drain is yearly maintenance.

    As for the Tee, most hardware stores will carry brass barbed tees or even pex tees will work fine.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Thanks for the good info. I always wondered about all the twigs and leaves accumulating there, and have tried to clean them out without removing anything. I don’t park under a tree, but still stuff gets picked up and ends up coming out by the lower fender. Wish I had known about this the first time I did the BMSC.

    I suspect it’s the hose, but then don’t know why it would fail so bad. I got a big cloud of smoke coming out of the engine when it failed and sprayed coolant all over the exhaust manifold. It does get hotter back there than most areas of the engine.

    I was scared at first as I noticed lots of coolant coming down from the mid-center lower back of the engine, no way I can get back there, but I figure it’s just running down the heater hose from the right side. I’ll find out tomorrow, and report back on the job.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Man View Post
    Take your time removing the screws and clips. They have a mind of their own, some like to jump in behind the motor. Been there done that.
    Thanks, appreciate that! I’ll be working out in light rain tomorrow trying to feel my way, and that’s the last thing I need.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  8. #8
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    Got to this yesterday when it finally stopped raining and warmed up. Couple of things:

    1. Getting the wiper arms off for the first time was a *****, mostly because you can’t lift the arm more than an inch or so, and the clips were pretty stuck after 16 years. Luckily after I pulled them off I found two little metal pieces laying down in the cowl on each side that are supposed to fit in a groove in the mount. I’m thinking about using a dab of adhesive to keep them from falling out when I reinstall.

    2. I can’t believe how much junk was down in that lower cowl! I swear there was 2” of mud, mixed with leaves and twigs, so there was no drainage at all. I’m glad Bob suggested it be removed for that alone. The extra space helped.

    By the way, two of the metal clips holding the cowl weren’t even there, and one of the plastic tabs on the upper cowl was destroyed. I think they overtightened it at the factory. I snapped off what’s left and will have to get by without it. Don’t know what happened to the clips. I’ll have to look for those online, or maybe I can make some.

    3. That tee is the most inaccessible place in the car. Luckily the tee had broken off at the bottom, which is why it was leaking. Because of that I was able to remove the three hoses in sections. I had to cut it off two of the tee barbs. It would have been harder if the tee was intact.

    And when all these fittings were installed, they were put in from the underside and back while the tranny was out. Guess which way the wings on the hose spring clamps were facing!? No easy way to get pliers on them. A half-hour each just to get them up the hose, then another half-hour each to get the stuck hoses off the bibs.

    4. The insulation cover on top of the A/C box is toast. I finally pulled off what’s left of it and tossed it. There’s still coverage on the sides. Can’t be helped, and hope it doesn’t matter too much for A/C operation.

    5. The walls of the new Gates heater hose are thinner than the 14 year old stuff by almost a 10th of an inch. That’s good for spacing and room, bad because a couple of the old spring clamps are now too loose. I ordered new ones on Amazon, as well as Dorman 5/8” x 5/8” x 5/8” metal universal heater hose tees. I suppose you could use those brass barbed hose tees, but I think those are for like garden hoses or general plumbing. All the auto parts store had was plastic tees, and the hardware stores the brass barbed tees.

    6. I’m going to try and make the new bottom hoses longer to stand up off the bibs more, putting the tee higher. It’s too hard to access behind the head as it is.

    7. The plastic on the broken off tee section was in small broken pieces down in the hose, completely disintegrated by the heat back there. I’ll never use a plastic tee again for coolant, and am replacing the other still intact plastic tee in the system.

    8. Yes, I know I’m a long-winded SOB. . I’ve got a couple more projects going while I wait 2 days for the parts that I’ll post about, but thanks (to Bob) for help with this one!



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    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  9. #9
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    I only use brass fittings on anything radiator fluid related.

    Go to home depot or lowes and get a PEX 3/4" T fitting.

    I found these to be better than a barbed fitting.

    dont forget to burp the system when your done!

  10. #10
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    I only use brass fittings on anything radiator fluid related.

    Go to home depot or lowes and get a PEX 3/4" T fitting.

    I found these to be better than a barbed fitting.

    dont forget to burp the system when your done!
    Thanks! I went to both Home Depot and Lowe’s last night and couldn’t find the correct size fitting. I guess it’s a terminology thing, but the ones I saw were what I call barbed, but only up to 1/2”. I got someone who tried to sell me another plastic one saying that’s all they had, so gave up. (It would have to be 5/8” anyway, right? All the heater hose under there is 5/8” / 15.9mm). I ordered these from Napa for Thursday delivery.

    Don’t know how durable they are compared to pex, but we’ll see; they should work OK:

    https://tinyurl.com/rgthhgs




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    Last edited by Svashtar; 12-24-2019 at 01:10 PM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  11. #11
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    missing clips are free at the junkyard. CV's & GM's should be the same. find a good cowl cover & buy from the junkyard. take old wiper cover for a visual comparison. junkyard will have lots of silver a/c cover insulation.
    BUCKWHEAT 03 MM 300A-August, '02 mfgr, black w/ blue metallic clearcoat, 94,000 miles, Texid stroker 5.0, #15 Kool-Aide w/ SnakeBite porting, Venom cooling, and upgraded to M122, 3873 of 7839

  12. #12
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    No need for the A/C insulation. I ripped it all off years ago and never noticed a difference.

    I gave up on the wiper pins years ago myself. Matter of fact my wiper arms now reside somewhere in the garage.

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    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  13. #13
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    Quote Originally Posted by BUCKWHEAT View Post
    missing clips are free at the junkyard. CV's & GM's should be the same. find a good cowl cover & buy from the junkyard. take old wiper cover for a visual comparison. junkyard will have lots of silver a/c cover insulation.
    You would think so; I visited junkyards for years in multiple California locations and got a wide variety of good parts for reasonable prices, for everything from old Mopar stuff to lots of foreign cars. But the large pick ‘n pull here with “thousands of fresh cars” (their literal words) makes their money by selling $3 admission to the mausoleum. There are hundreds of stripped frames, that’s about it. Frankly there are so many illegals here driving wrecks that any older junker car is stripped down to the frame of all parts immediately.


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    Last edited by Svashtar; 12-24-2019 at 11:55 PM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  14. #14
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    No need for the A/C insulation. I ripped it all off years ago and never noticed a difference.

    I gave up on the wiper pins years ago myself. Matter of fact my wiper arms now reside somewhere in the garage.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Thanks for the confirmation on the insulation. I won’t worry about it. It’s would be messy to trim and fit new sections of it anyway, and the sides are covered. The stuff has been degrading for years, and coolant does a number on it.

    You don’t have wipers on your car? I couldn’t get away with that here year round. The design is clever, but I don’t know why they bothered with separate pins in the arm socket instead of just making them a permanent part of the assembly.

    It was actually a miracle I spotted them laying down in the cowl after the arms popped off. I don’t think the arms would stay on without them.


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    Last edited by Svashtar; 12-25-2019 at 12:04 AM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    Thanks for the confirmation on the insulation. I won’t worry about it. It’s would be messy to trim and fit new sections of it anyway, and the sides are covered. The stuff has been degrading for years, and coolant does a number on it.

    You don’t have wipers on your car? I couldn’t get away with that here year round. The design is clever, but I don’t know why they bothered with separate pins in the arm socket instead of just making them a permanent part of the assembly.

    It was actually a miracle I spotted them laying down in the cowl after the arms popped off. I don’t think the arms would stay on without them.


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    They work fine without. It was popular early on to toss them in the trash and clock the arms lower under the hood to conceal them.


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    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

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