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Thread: DR rear engine cooling mod leak

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    They work fine without. It was popular early on to toss them in the trash and clock the arms lower under the hood to conceal them.


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    Interesting. I didn’t know that. So they basically act as hard stops for the wipers then I guess? It would be easier to get the wipers off if I could lift them higher, and that means getting them down below the hood line, so I’ll give it a try.


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  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    You don’t have wipers on your car? I couldn’t get away with that here year round. The design is clever, but I don’t know why they bothered with separate pins in the arm socket instead of just making them a permanent part of the assembly.

    It was actually a miracle I spotted them laying down in the cowl after the arms popped off. I don’t think the arms would stay on without them.


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    The pins are used as guides during the assembly process to align the wipers of each car in the same position. No second guessing by line workers after the 3 martini lunch break.

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Man View Post
    The pins are used as guides during the assembly process to align the wipers of each car in the same position. No second guessing by line workers after the 3 martini lunch break.
    Of course, should have thought of that. They’d be all over the windshield otherwise.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  4. #19
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    This is what I spent 4 hours today trying to do: fit a 4” 5/8” piece of heater hose over that lower bib (the black one.)

    I don’t know if that bib is OEM or the rear engine cooling mod routing, but whoever designed it only needed to move it maybe an inch upwards (towards the upper bib) for it to be accessible. As it is there’s no damned way I can find to get the hose on it because the AC box is on the way. What a *****.

    I’ve tried everything I know. I get the hose on the bib maybe 1” after an hour of work, but can’t get it down the rest of the way. The mouth of it is practically buried in the A/C box insulation. And inch shorter would have also worked. Lousy design assumed you’d never have to change the hose I guess.

    I’ve tried soaping it, armor all, etc. Actually thinking about using 3/4” hose and hoping the clamps will keep it from leaking.

    Any tips are welcome. (I’ve already thought of parting the car out. )






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    Last edited by Svashtar; 12-30-2019 at 07:49 PM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  5. #20
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    I need to find something super slippery for both surfaces. Maybe some STP, or case lube?

    I’ll also put a spring clamp in the middle to keep it from kinking.

    Try again tomorrow...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  6. #21
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    i boiled my hose to soften it up before i slipped it on it didnt wanna go all the way down but enough to clamp it down with no leaks
    VORTECH A2A supercharger ,accufab 60mm throttle body,all fluids royal purple,cobra headers and exhaust by todd at Grands,410 gears rebuilt rearend(eaton), 3600 high stall converter,rebuilt transmission by Team Ford of marietta rear girdle,powerslot cryo disc, and stainless steel lines from dennis and tuned by aric at INJECTED INGINEERING

  7. #22
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    I need to find something super slippery for both surfaces. Maybe some STP, or case lube?

    I’ll also put a spring clamp in the middle to keep it from kinking.

    Try again tomorrow...


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


    Always seems to bring a smile in a deep, dark, dull, and dry moment. TMI?


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    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post


    Always seems to bring a smile in a deep, dark, dull, and dry moment. TMI?


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    LOL! That might actually work, and is water soluble to boot!

    You know, 40 years ago when I used to run a Coates machine in a tire shop, we had this incredibly slick rubber lube we used to put on the inside bead of the tire before remounting the tire. That’s what I need, but this stuff might be close.

    Thanks for the tip on boiling, I was going to try a heat gun, but that might work better.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  9. #24
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    Just so you know the heater core fittings are not 5/8" hence the reason your struggling to get a 5/8" hose over the fitting.

    Why not get the correct reducing hose intended for the fittings?

  10. #25
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    Just so you know the heater core fittings are not 5/8" hence the reason your struggling to get a 5/8" hose over the fitting.

    Why not get the correct reducing hose intended for the fittings?
    Uh, sorry, that is? I removed a broken 5/8” by 5/8” by 5/8” tee, that had three sections of 5/8” hose attached to it. That is, 5/8” is .625 and the ID of what I removed was .670, so I figured the extra was due to almost 15 years of stretching. So I made the assumption the new tee and hoses should be 5/8”.

    The fact is the 5/8” hose fits perfectly on the other higher bib behind the head, and to the fitting on the firewall, although it is a tight fit there. Difference is, I have room to work.

    I appreciate any info on what to ask for, as this is the first I’ve heard of a reducing hose.

    Q: this bib is so poorly designed, and so inaccessible, butting right up to the AC, that I figured this was the DR cooling mod bib my mechanic installed. But evidently not? It’s the OEM heater fitting? It did have the OEM black coating on it.

    So, I just need to ask for the OEM heater hose here? Then cut it to the new shorter length?

    Here is the result of my work after another few hours today:



    No kidding, I’m done with this stupid design. Life is too short. That’s as far down as I can get it. I’m afraid even with a larger inside diameter hose going over the bib, it’s still going to kink. What a *****y design.

    Thanks for any info on the correct hose. I wouldn’t have known anything about a reducing hose if you hadn’t mentioned it.

    (So that means that when it left the factory there was a single continuous hose from the firewall to this ***** of a bib, right? I know, Mr. Obvious, but I’ve had this setup almost since I bought the car 15 years ago...)




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    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  11. #26
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    IIRC one end of the OEM hose was 5/8” and the other was 3/4” with a prefabbed 90 molded in it to prevent kinking. If that is the case you would need to find an OEM hose or equivalent and cut into two pieces to make room for the tee where it aligns. Check diameters before taking my word..

    Something else you could do for more room is to simply remove the 18MM nut from the bottom of the passenger side engine mount and lift it up to gain a couple of inches. Just be sure to wedge a good impact socket or something else sturdy under the mount and let the engine rest on it to avoid a busted hand. (Same trick to easily remove the cam covers.)

    It’s been a good long while since I’ve done this plus my rear kit comes off the top freeze plugs right behind the intake so it’s routed differently plus I deleted the passenger steel pipe that runs up to the COT. But I do remember two different sizes used.

    I myself just match up hoses in the back room of Advance and snip off what I don’t need and pitch it into my box of hoses.

    They know I only build Frankenstein crap and know me by first name..


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    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    IIRC one end of the OEM hose was 5/8” and the other was 3/4” with a prefabbed 90 molded in it to prevent kinking. If that is the case you would need to find an OEM hose or equivalent and cut into two pieces to make room for the tee where it aligns. Check diameters before taking my word..

    Something else you could do for more room is to simply remove the 18MM nut from the bottom of the passenger side engine mount and lift it up to gain a couple of inches. Just be sure to wedge a good impact socket or something else sturdy under the mount and let the engine rest on it to avoid a busted hand. (Same trick to easily remove the cam covers.)

    It’s been a good long while since I’ve done this plus my rear kit comes off the top freeze plugs right behind the intake so it’s routed differently plus I deleted the passenger steel pipe that runs up to the COT. But I do remember two different sizes used.

    I myself just match up hoses in the back room of Advance and snip off what I don’t need and pitch it into my box of hoses.

    They know I only build Frankenstein crap and know me by first name..


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    Thanks, it makes a lot more sense now. I wish I could have salvaged the old hose section, but it had the busted tee section down in it in pieces and had to be removed, so got torn up. I’ll look for the OEM hose and hopefully they still make it. I imagine it would be the same for all CV’s and GM’s, at least I hope so.

    That’s also a good trick on the engine mount; literally 2” would be enough, but I’d rather use the OEM hose if possible, measure twice and cut once and put the tee in the correct location. Once I get the hose over that lower bib the rest will be easy.

    I’d like to just cut a custom hose like you do, but want to make sure I get the right diameters on each end here.


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    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  13. #28
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    DR rear engine cooling mod leak

    This looks like it here. I feel like a moron wasting so much time trying to get 5/8” hose to fit, and should have ordered this last week:

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...se+/+pipe,6892

    (Link isn’t working, it’s part no. DAYCO 87604.)

    This is described as a “dual ID” hose so fits the description; hopefully the 3/4” bottom end will make it over the bib easier.

    Thanks musclemerc for letting me know.
    Last edited by Svashtar; 01-02-2020 at 02:54 AM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  14. #29
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    If you need a brass coupler (I'm saying it again) go to home depot or lowes and ask for a 3/4" PEX coupler

    Before you ask 3/4" PEX = 5/8" barb

  15. #30
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    Lightbulb

    If the hose is anything like that for a Crown Victoria or Grand Marquis you may want to consider FoMoCo's severe service alternatives. *Though NOT inexpensive.

    One of these ...


    *Part # 3W7Z-18472-AC

    -or-


    *Part # 3W7Z-18472-AD
    .

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