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Thread: Finally got the Marauder back....

  1. #1
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    Finally got the Marauder back....

    Hello. I finally got my Marauder back from the hack shop MSR Florida in Tampa after I had them do an eaton swap, AC refit and some brake work. What a fiasco! I'll keep it to the point and this might be long, though. My question's are the following:
    1. He says he "tuned" the car. We drove it when I picked it up. It seemed a little sluggish having added (what I would guess) 50% more power, roughly. He said he dyno'd it but I am sure he never did (he could never produce a dyno sheet, picture or video and never argued about it when I called him out on it pickup day). Don't get me wrong, she moved out ok. Just not like I thought. Seems like something is being held back power wise. Of course, the check engine lite is on. He acted suprised, checked it and said that it is the knock sensors & they need to be "turned off" in the tune. He explained that they are removed or disconnected during the eaton swap? He said he would adjust that in the tune and get back to me. He always says he has to call SCT to have them make certain adjustments to the "tune". Really? Well, that has been a week. FYI, I had to get my car out of his hands asap, so I loaded it on the trailer and got out of there. I didn't want him to mess with it any longer.

    2. Since he said he "tuned" it, but wouldn't give me the SCT tuner that he supposedly used (because he had to deal with the knock sensor BS), where do I stand with the "tune"? Can I just buy another SCT tuner and get it programmed by someone else? I do have a dyno appointment with a more reputable speed shop here in town, 5 Bar Motorsports. I feel like I need to, at least, put it on the dyno and have them see what is going on with the current "tune". I want to make sure it is safe to drive. However, where do I stand without the SCT tuner the hack guy used? This shop said they MAY have to have the computer "put back to stock" by an outside vendor they trust and then, they can start over and make their own tune for it. The hack guy won't tell me whether or not the SCT tuner he used is currently married to the car or not.

    3. I had the hack guy put in a boost gauge and a digital wideband AFR gauge in the gauge pod. I haven't ran it WOT, but normal driving, the wideband seems to read 14.8 to 15.4. However, I notice that when I come off of the throttle from like 55+ mph or so, the wideband will go to 17 (red lites light up) and it seems to stay there until the rpms get down around 1500-2000rpm. Then, the wideband reads 15ish like normal. Is this normal?

    I think that is all I have for now. I am sure I will have more questions. Tuesday, I am supposed to take the Marauder to 5 Bar to have them check it out. I trust them as a local shop. They recently did a clutch in my GT500. Nice work, reasonable prices and good customer service. Lots of high powered cars (mostly Ford) in there shop. I wish I was closer to Marty's shop and had more time. Otherwise, I would just go there.

    "RescuRauder", Born on 09/02/2003 & rescued on 04/05/2013. #236 of 3214 and #62 of 1237 in Black. CAI, Some kind of tune, Kooks Headers, X-pipe w/Hi-Flow cats, Magnaflow mufflers, Resonators removed, 4.10's, Metco U&L CA and Watts link, Drilled & slotted rotors, now BOOSTED!! Eaton Swapped 12/29/19!!
    1986 Mustang GT Vert, Black, 5spd, new short block, Powerheads, Crower 15511, gears, exhaust etc.

    2011 Shelby GT500, Kona Blue with SVT Performance Pkg & Navigation, VMP tuned ~550rwhp/550rwtq. Finally Blown!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by sflrainmaker01 View Post
    Hello. I finally got my Marauder back from the hack shop MSR Florida in Tampa after I had them do an eaton swap, AC refit and some brake work. What a fiasco! I'll keep it to the point and this might be long, though. My question's are the following:
    1. He says he "tuned" the car. We drove it when I picked it up. It seemed a little sluggish having added (what I would guess) 50% more power, roughly. He said he dyno'd it but I am sure he never did (he could never produce a dyno sheet, picture or video and never argued about it when I called him out on it pickup day). Don't get me wrong, she moved out ok. Just not like I thought. Seems like something is being held back power wise. Of course, the check engine lite is on. He acted suprised, checked it and said that it is the knock sensors & they need to be "turned off" in the tune. He explained that they are removed or disconnected during the eaton swap? He said he would adjust that in the tune and get back to me. He always says he has to call SCT to have them make certain adjustments to the "tune". Really? Well, that has been a week. FYI, I had to get my car out of his hands asap, so I loaded it on the trailer and got out of there. I didn't want him to mess with it any longer.

    WOW!!! The knock sensors should have been turned off the minute he started tuning the car. An Eaton should perform from a full stop all the way through the rpm range. Its the main benefit of going positive displacement SC

    2. Since he said he "tuned" it, but wouldn't give me the SCT tuner that he supposedly used (because he had to deal with the knock sensor BS), where do I stand with the "tune"? Can I just buy another SCT tuner and get it programmed by someone else? I do have a dyno appointment with a more reputable speed shop here in town, 5 Bar Motorsports. I feel like I need to, at least, put it on the dyno and have them see what is going on with the current "tune". I want to make sure it is safe to drive. However, where do I stand without the SCT tuner the hack guy used? This shop said they MAY have to have the computer "put back to stock" by an outside vendor they trust and then, they can start over and make their own tune for it. The hack guy won't tell me whether or not the SCT tuner he used is currently married to the car or not.

    He tuned it and didn't give you the tuner? I wouldn't have left his shop without one.

    3. I had the hack guy put in a boost gauge and a digital wideband AFR gauge in the gauge pod. I haven't ran it WOT, but normal driving, the wideband seems to read 14.8 to 15.4. However, I notice that when I come off of the throttle from like 55+ mph or so, the wideband will go to 17 (red lites light up) and it seems to stay there until the rpms get down around 1500-2000rpm. Then, the wideband reads 15ish like normal. Is this normal?

    This is normal under regular driving. The gauge dances around. It should go 14.4-14.7 at idle and around 11.2-11.5 under WOT

    I think that is all I have for now. I am sure I will have more questions. Tuesday, I am supposed to take the Marauder to 5 Bar to have them check it out. I trust them as a local shop. They recently did a clutch in my GT500. Nice work, reasonable prices and good customer service. Lots of high powered cars (mostly Ford) in there shop. I wish I was closer to Marty's shop and had more time. Otherwise, I would just go there.
    When you strapped the car onto the trailer my next stop would have been to Mo's Speed Shop in Georgia. Take it NOW!!!

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    When you strapped the car onto the trailer my next stop would have been to Mo's Speed Shop in Georgia. Take it NOW!!!
    I agree 100%.

    I trailered mine all the way from the Chicago suburbs on a Friday night and 10 1/2 hours later just after they opened it was in the shop and strapped down. We spent the morning tuning and were drifting at 115 “in Mexico” early afternoon. Finally got a hotel, caught up on sleep and drove home Sunday with a well sorted black ballistic missile in tow.

    Under normal driving conditions you shouldn’t be able to tell anything was ever done. With more throttle added it should feel just as smooth as your GT500 and it should shred the tires with ease. I would baby it until someone has looked it over.

    AFR Spiking on let off is normal, what you need to be concerned with is anything nearing 12 with WOT.

    So they didn’t sell you an Xcal??


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    I agree 100%.

    I trailered mine all the way from the Chicago suburbs on a Friday night and 10 1/2 hours later just after they opened it was in the shop and strapped down. We spent the morning tuning and were drifting at 115 “in Mexico” early afternoon. Finally got a hotel, caught up on sleep and drove home Sunday with a well sorted black ballistic missile in tow.

    Under normal driving conditions you shouldn’t be able to tell anything was ever done. With more throttle added it should feel just as smooth as your GT500 and it should shred the tires with ease. I would baby it until someone has looked it over.

    AFR Spiking on let off is normal, what you need to be concerned with is anything nearing 12 with WOT.

    So they didn’t sell you an Xcal??


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    I almost bought the SCT from him, but, when he fumbled around grabbing one off the shelf of misc parts, I wasn't convinced he would have given me the correct one. As is was still considering the SCT purchase from him, at the last minute, he said he would need to keep it to fix the knock sensor stuff. Yeah, right. Well, a week later and it still hasn't been done. So, I'm glad I didn't waste the $390 for a bunch of empty promises...as usual.

    And, as stated earlier, it was all the time I could get off work to go rescue the car on Sunday anyway. Even then, I was supposed to be at work by noon. After getting jerked around at his shop, we weren't able to leave until two. If this 5 Bar crew can't give me any assurance that the car is right, I will have no choice but to SHIP the car to Marty. As it is now, I am working 6+ days a week. No time for much right now.

    "RescuRauder", Born on 09/02/2003 & rescued on 04/05/2013. #236 of 3214 and #62 of 1237 in Black. CAI, Some kind of tune, Kooks Headers, X-pipe w/Hi-Flow cats, Magnaflow mufflers, Resonators removed, 4.10's, Metco U&L CA and Watts link, Drilled & slotted rotors, now BOOSTED!! Eaton Swapped 12/29/19!!
    1986 Mustang GT Vert, Black, 5spd, new short block, Powerheads, Crower 15511, gears, exhaust etc.

    2011 Shelby GT500, Kona Blue with SVT Performance Pkg & Navigation, VMP tuned ~550rwhp/550rwtq. Finally Blown!

  5. #5
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    I have an excellent transporter in South Florida. He's very picky about securing the car to the trailer. He pulls in an enclosed trailer. The car does not have to run. The trailer is equipped with a winch.

    I've used him 3 times all with excellent results

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    I have an excellent transporter in South Florida. He's very picky about securing the car to the trailer. He pulls in an enclosed trailer. The car does not have to run. The trailer is equipped with a winch.

    I've used him 3 times all with excellent results
    Let me know. I will also need a car brought back from Nebraska to Fort Myers in the next 30 days or less.

    "RescuRauder", Born on 09/02/2003 & rescued on 04/05/2013. #236 of 3214 and #62 of 1237 in Black. CAI, Some kind of tune, Kooks Headers, X-pipe w/Hi-Flow cats, Magnaflow mufflers, Resonators removed, 4.10's, Metco U&L CA and Watts link, Drilled & slotted rotors, now BOOSTED!! Eaton Swapped 12/29/19!!
    1986 Mustang GT Vert, Black, 5spd, new short block, Powerheads, Crower 15511, gears, exhaust etc.

    2011 Shelby GT500, Kona Blue with SVT Performance Pkg & Navigation, VMP tuned ~550rwhp/550rwtq. Finally Blown!

  7. #7
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    Take it to Mo's. They'll straighten it out.

  8. #8
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    I'm sorry you had this type of experience with a shop... it always irritates me when I hear of situations like this... Wish you were closer I would have been glad to help ya out... #1. The knock sensors do have to be removed from the block and the tune with an eaton swap. #2. The SCT... yes, you should have one, it should have been part of the build. It would be interesting to know what they used for tuning. #3. AFR is normal under decel, Most important is AFR at wideopen.... #4. The distance between you and Moe's is not worth blowing up your engine, get it up to Marty and Jeff, let them do their thing.
    #2941 300A
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    Eaton Swapped

    Bar tender and maker of:
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  9. #9
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    Thanks Curless. It's pretty rediculous. I have been talking to this guy for like four or five years before i decided to commit to this job. He took over a year to do this job. BS excuse after another, held the car hostage for full payment even though the job wasn't completed. Lucky for him, I was 2 hours away and it was extremely difficult for me to get up there to check on him. Every time I went there (sacrificing a rare day off) there was always some big issue that wasn't easy to correct (seemingly). It's obviously still not completed, but luckily, the car ran and drove and I was able to renegotiate the deal and get my car out of car jail.

    "RescuRauder", Born on 09/02/2003 & rescued on 04/05/2013. #236 of 3214 and #62 of 1237 in Black. CAI, Some kind of tune, Kooks Headers, X-pipe w/Hi-Flow cats, Magnaflow mufflers, Resonators removed, 4.10's, Metco U&L CA and Watts link, Drilled & slotted rotors, now BOOSTED!! Eaton Swapped 12/29/19!!
    1986 Mustang GT Vert, Black, 5spd, new short block, Powerheads, Crower 15511, gears, exhaust etc.

    2011 Shelby GT500, Kona Blue with SVT Performance Pkg & Navigation, VMP tuned ~550rwhp/550rwtq. Finally Blown!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Curless View Post
    It would be interesting to know what they used for tuning.
    A good question for an SCT rep.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  11. #11
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    So why are the knock sensors removed from the engine and from the diagnostics when an Eaton is installed? I know from personal experience with a terminator that I installed a Kenny Bell blower on that the terminator didn’t have knock sensors from the factory but as part of the upgrades from Kenny Bell knock sensors were installed and the wiring harness was modified to accommodate. It seems you would want knock control to try to extract the most timing and thus power from the engine.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blakshukvw View Post
    So why are the knock sensors removed from the engine and from the diagnostics when an Eaton is installed? I know from personal experience with a terminator that I installed a Kenny Bell blower on that the terminator didn’t have knock sensors from the factory but as part of the upgrades from Kenny Bell knock sensors were installed and the wiring harness was modified to accommodate. It seems you would want knock control to try to extract the most timing and thus power from the engine.
    The bungs in the block valley are too tall to fit the mustang manifold. So they need to be ground off then turned off in the tune.

    As for the computer needing to go back to stock, that doesn't need to be done. You just won't have a stock tune to save to the Tuner device if the car ever went back to stock.
    ~Chris

  13. #13
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    I made my knock sensors fit on my stock block when I had my Trilogy. Pretty sure they were turned down so much in the tune they didn't matter.

    But it can be done.

  14. #14
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    I'm from jersey. After building and installing a engine for my 05 crown vic sport. Car ran funny. Remotely tunning my car with jeff and marty was not working out as my car was still acting up. Had no choice to get my car transported to mos speed shop in september. Tones of speed shops by me which specialize in mustangs and they all have good reviews but I went with mos. I sent marty my car for one issue and Ive taken advantage of his time and knowledge and have done tones of things to it while its there. He is almost done with my and should be ready to transport back soon but I keep asking marty to do this and that. Transporting my car was the hardest part as it cost some money. But at the end, its well worth it.

    This this said, if you want it done right, send it to mos speed shop.

  15. #15
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    I just looked back at my notes.

    This drama has been going on for well over a year since we talked.

    If it’s the shop I think it is I wouldn’t trust them to change the tire in my bicycle.

    With that said, send the car up to me and let’s bring this to an end.

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