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Thread: LCM?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by TED73 View Post
    Is the LCM easy to remove? To be honest, I haven't looked into this in detail.
    If your of reasonable size and a bit bendy, yes.

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Man View Post
    If your of reasonable size and a bit bendy, yes.
    LMAO! Aren't we all...back in high school/college...
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  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by TED73 View Post
    Is the LCM easy to remove? To be honest, I haven't looked into this in detail.
    Yes, very easy. Less than 5 minutes to remove.

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  4. #34
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    HAHAHA............Thanks for the info. I will look into it hopefully soon.

  5. #35
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    The LCM is just above and in front the diagnostic OBDII connector (just to the right of the steering column). On the front of the LCM are two grey connectors, depress the release latches and pull the connectors out of the LCM. Remove the two 7mm screws that hold the LCM to the bracket. Release the latch securing the LCM to the bracket. Push the LCM towards the firewall as you rotate the front of the LCM towards the roof.Once the LCM clears the bracket, pull it down and you can release the last electrical connector.

    To reinstall, do the same steps in reverse.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

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    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
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  6. #36
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    Hey Fastblackmerc,

    I PM'ed you a couple of times. It's a bit of a strange request, but it's sincere!

    Just checking!

    Thanks,

    Allen

    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    The LCM is just above and in front the diagnostic OBDII connector (just to the right of the steering column). On the front of the LCM are two grey connectors, depress the release latches and pull the connectors out of the LCM. Remove the two 7mm screws that hold the LCM to the bracket. Release the latch securing the LCM to the bracket. Push the LCM towards the firewall as you rotate the front of the LCM towards the roof.Once the LCM clears the bracket, pull it down and you can release the last electrical connector.

    To reinstall, do the same steps in reverse.
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  7. #37
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    I’ve been an idiot for not getting this done during all the summer weather we’ve had while I’ve been also stuck working at home. My question is, what lights will and won’t work without the LCM? Headlights will be out obviously, but what about brake lights? IOW is the car drivable at all? No worries if not, just need to plan for it.

    I’m going to follow Jim’s instructions and get it out and send to him this weekend. I just hope this will also fix my dead underbody lights, which haven’t worked in over a year. Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    I’ve been an idiot for not getting this done during all the summer weather we’ve had while I’ve been also stuck working at home. My question is, what lights will and won’t work without the LCM? Headlights will be out obviously, but what about brake lights? IOW is the car drivable at all? No worries if not, just need to plan for it.

    I’m going to follow Jim’s instructions and get it out and send to him this weekend. I just hope this will also fix my dead underbody lights, which haven’t worked in over a year. Thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    The only lights that WILL work are the brake lights. They do not go thru the LCM.

    You will have NO, headlights, tail lights, running lights, turn signals or interior lights.

    Replied to your PM.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by decipha View Post
    why not just bring it to the dealer and let them do it for free ?
    Hell, I never got a notification from them regardless; first I've heard of this. I can't imagine any MM's are still under warranty in any case, so if they were fixing it for free they never notified me. I recall it coming up a few years ago, but would rather trust Jim with the work anyway.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    The only lights that WILL work are the brake lights. They do not go thru the LCM.

    You will have NO, headlights, tail lights, running lights, turn signals or interior lights.

    Replied to your PM.
    Got it, thanks very much. Good to know I could drive it if I had to, but will try and leave it parked for a while. Definitely easier to do that these days...
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  11. #41
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    LCM?

    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    The LCM is just above and in front the diagnostic OBDII connector (just to the right of the steering column). On the front of the LCM are two grey connectors, depress the release latches and pull the connectors out of the LCM. Remove the two 7mm screws that hold the LCM to the bracket. Release the latch securing the LCM to the bracket. Push the LCM towards the firewall as you rotate the front of the LCM towards the roof.Once the LCM clears the bracket, pull it down and you can release the last electrical connector.

    To reinstall, do the same steps in reverse.
    Wow, what a PITA; no grey connectors here. One 7 mm screw. Had to remove the plastic cover over everything and pull it down to have access. Unclipped the LCM, but no room for it to go back more than 1”-2”. Won’t rotate much at all. Typical for me. Looks like the alarm guy made a real tangle under here which doesn’t help...
    Last edited by Svashtar; 08-25-2020 at 05:20 PM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  12. #42
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    LCM?

    Guess I was too literal following the directions. I ended up just sliding it off the bracket to the left, turning the back to the right and pulling it down. All the other cabling in there wouldn’t allow me to go back or up much at all.
    Last edited by Svashtar; 08-25-2020 at 05:13 PM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  13. #43
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    Things I’ve noticed driving the car without LCM: air bag light on, and air suspension compressor kicks in every 60-90 seconds. ? Please tell me those ARE related to removing the LCM?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    Things I’ve noticed driving the car without LCM: air bag light on, and air suspension compressor kicks in every 60-90 seconds. ? Please tell me those ARE related to removing the LCM?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    To my knowledge they are not related to the LCM missing. I may be wrong......
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  15. #45
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    One would expect, the air bag light, the other no. My air bags and solenoids are almost brand new (Arnott). I suppose it could be the compressor. I’ll just have to watch it. The car has only been driven 1-2 times a week for months now.

    I had to shove a heavy wiring harness cable tied to another back out of the way to get the LCM back and out, I suppose I could have screwed something up. By the way, I found a hanging wire (assume alarm related) under the dash that had like a little plastic movable plunger at the end? Odd looking, I just tucked it next to the fuse box.

    I was blaming the alarm guy for the half-assed LCM install, because I had to go back in and redo / fix so much of his other work years ago, but it wasn’t him; the last person to touch it was Ford.

    Anyway, the LCM is on its way to you now, thanks for fixing it up.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

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