I know some are of the opinion it’s too wide for the wheel. I’ve never encountered an issue arising from doing this and I’ve sold and mounted a lot of tires. I drive my car hard and toss it around corners like it weighs have of what it does. Never an issue. For what it’s worth.
It's not an opinion, its following the tire manufacturer's recommended specs. I also do know of someone years ago who crashed his low mile DTR from a squishy rear sidewall causing the car to sway and spin out, the kind you'd get with the boomer tire stance of putting 295's on a 8" wide wheel.
But stance kids love to do the opposite (narrow tires on wide wheels) and you still see plenty of those cars on the road, so whatever I guess.
2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005
2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
2063/3214
(Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
5377/7838
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1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors
Yes. You wouldn’t believe the things I’ve done to mount stretched tires. That I do believe is way more dangerous.
a 295/45 isn’t nearly as sidewall compliant as a big bloated off road tire mud truck tire squeezed on a narrow wheel. That’s been done forever.
As to your story about the dtr, I’ll just say there are some drivers on the road that shouldn’t be.
“When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
Ronald Regan
"The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."
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“Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
"I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
General James Mattis
I run the Nitto 295/45 on stock rim.
Had a blowout last week going 85 on freeway. Held up well till I pulled over.
No warranty on Japanese tires.
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I've done a ton of calcs on this, and posted here before and gotten a lot of good input. I've always kept the stock 235/50-18's on the front, but next time was considering going to either the 245/45-18 (.3" wider than OEM and .57" shorter), or to the 255/45-18's, which are .79 wider and .22" lower than OEM.
The trouble is when going to the back, as I don't want to exceed 6% tire differential front to rear. For years I used the excellent Nitto 555 265/50-18's, which are just .2" shorter but a full .81" wider (13/16") than OEM, and they gave me a nice front to back ratio of only 4.32%, which was less than the factory 5%, but they aren't available any more.
I'd like to consider the .4" taller and .4" wider than OEM 255/55-18's for the rear, but with the factory front that would take me to a 6.5% front to back differential. That would be a .06" height increase over the unavailable 265/50-18's, while decreasing width by .39".
SO QUESTION: has anyone with a setup of OEM fronts to 255/55-18 rears had any issues with TC with that 6.5% front to back differential? Keep in mind that differential would increase if I ever went with one of those lower fronts, to 8.6% with the 245/45-18's, and 7.4% with the 255/45-18's, so I'd pretty much be staying with the OEM fronts if I go to 255/55-18 in the rear.
(One consideration to go with the OEM rears; I could go to the 255/45-18 fronts and just keep the ratio under 6%, barely. Going to the 245/45-18's would take that ratio over 7%...)
Thanks for any info as always.
Last edited by Svashtar; 02-21-2020 at 03:10 PM. Reason: Add info
2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
That would be nice, but not according to your statement about 6% being max, which I've heard before (OEM differential is 5%). 285/50-18 rear with the OEM 235/50-18 front is a 6.95% differential. (29.2"-27.3" = 1.9"/27.3")
That's greater than the differential I'm asking about in the previous post between the front OEM's and rear 255/55-18's, which is 6.5%. I'd LIKE to be able to go with those .4" wider and .4" taller rears, but then I'd have to stay with the OEM fronts permanently (assuming 6.5% is OK...?) But hell, maybe you're right and with the setup you suggest you could get by with just under 7%?
Last edited by Svashtar; 02-21-2020 at 02:44 PM.
2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
Member Adam runs a 285-50-18 rear..not sure of front he runs...some say 7% difference
2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
Has supporting mods and stuff
Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.
R.I.P.
Rex "SC Cheesehead"
The BEST All Season, High Performance tire for a MARAUDER...STOCK Wheels
Comes in 255/45/18 Front
255/55/18 Rear
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires...Contact+DWS+06
2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
That would give a 7.4% front to back differential, which if you have TC could be a problem. I like the idea of those fronts and the OEM rears, which would give a 5.9% ratio., or those rears and the OEM fronts which would be the 6.5% I'm considering. As for the best, the Nitto's I've had have been outstanding, handling and wearing better than the BF Goodrich T/A's that cost more at the time, but I can't get the 555 rears anymore so am looking at the Motivo's.
The question I really need answered is what's the cutoff on the differential. Some say 6%, but then are running 1 to 1.5% higher. They may not have TC though.
(Update: I said before the ratio of front to back for our OEM tires was 5%, but it's brand specific; with Nitto Motivos it's 4.3%. I wrote down the 5% years ago with the 555's. Checking the 255/55ZR18's on the Nitto site, they work out to a 5.9 front to back ratio on the Motivos to OEM fronts, so that should be good to go.)
Last edited by Svashtar; 02-21-2020 at 04:05 PM.
2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
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