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Thread: Banjo Bolt leak...???

  1. #1
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    Banjo Bolt leak...???

    i have a caliper with the banjo bolt that will not seal. I am at the comfortable limit of bolt torque.
    Is there a hard urethane washer that works better??

    Unique solutions??

  2. #2
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    Banjo Bolt leak...???

    I truly hate to even ask but letís get it out of the way..

    Iím assuming you are using both copper washers and they are new?

    If so perhaps a hairline crack in the caliper body where the threads are or the end of the hose?
    Wrong threads on the bolt?
    A burr on the sealing side of the bolt?
    A pit on the caliper surface?
    Wrong thickness of washers?

    Thatís all Iíve got.


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  3. #3
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    comfortable torque ? always torque those . you may be amazed at the tight difference with the correct torque . otherwise refer to what justbob put out for you .

  4. #4
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    Copper works well, just install new copper washers. Should be available at your local Ford dealer or auto parts store.
    2004 SB #2150 of 3214 Moonroof, Heated Seats and 6 CD Changer. Non OEM Mufflers and 32,XXX miles and counting.

  5. #5
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    The first time I removed a banjo bolt I didn’t realize those copper washers needed to be replaced...make sure you are using new ones!

  6. #6
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    Out of laziness in sourcing new Iíve reused many times without issues, mainly on the motorcycles, but sometimes on cars. But yes, they are intended to be used only once.

    Like I said, I hate to ask. I just donít know you or your skills so I figured start at step 1.


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    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  7. #7
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    i agree out of laziness i also re used copper ones . flip them over and again torque it . currious to see what this problem is

  8. #8
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    Thnx all, i was up to 20 ft.lbs and with only some 5 threads of engagement, I did not want to go higher.

    Got some aluminum/rubber sealing washers, problem solved. There are 2 styles out there. I was using new copper.

    When using ‘rebuilt’ calipers, the rings are sometimes imperfect due to corrosion from previous life.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thomas C Potter View Post
    Thnx all, i was up to 20 ft.lbs and with only some 5 threads of engagement, I did not want to go higher.

    Got some aluminum/rubber sealing washers, problem solved. There are 2 styles out there. I was using new copper.

    When using ‘rebuilt’ calipers, the rings are sometimes imperfect due to corrosion from previous life.
    Is the rubber brake fluid "safe"?
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  10. #10
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    So now the leak is fixed and the correct torque according to ford factory manual is 50 newton meters / 37 foot lbs . brake line pressure is extreme . get a good torque wrench and torque it .those are rear spec . fronts are 55 NM / 41# page 203-03-6 manual . power assit braking pressure approx, 1400 lbs . this way you can rest easy when you throw out the anchor . LOL
    Last edited by marauderrocks51; 03-24-2020 at 05:03 AM. Reason: added info

  11. #11
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    Yes, safe for brake system, that is what they were designed for.
    Torque limit for the car I am working on is 22.

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