So what is it about a brake booster that makes for a better pedal feel? Just wondering,
So what is it about a brake booster that makes for a better pedal feel? Just wondering,
I'll see if I can remember to grab the engineering # off my 04 this weekend
I'm far from a mechanical engineer but the booster is the force multiplier for leverage on the brakes. The 98-02 panthers had slightly different brakes, the front rotors were a little larger. I'm not sure if the calipers had different piston sizes or not, if they did. If the calipers changed while the booster stayed the same after the 03+ brake changes, this could explain why the pedal feel changed so much.
I'm not exactly sure what changed in between boosters for 01-02 and 03-05, all I know is they did change.
2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005
2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
2063/3214
(Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
5377/7838
2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB
1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors
This is interesting, but is it really worth the labor and parts locating? I recently did the Zack big brake swap, did a brake bleed and then went to a shop and got a abs electronic bleed. I gotta say my brakes are rock hard.
Last edited by NATEHAWK; 04-24-2020 at 09:55 AM.
2003 300A Black MM
FRPP ALUMINATOR MOTOR 10:1
BC AUTOMOTIVE TRANNY 2800 STALL
TRILOGY S/C WITH POSI PERFORMANCE PORT
STAINLESS WORKS LT HEADERS
METCO REAR CONTROL ARMS AND WATTS LINK
ADDCO FRONT & REAR SWAY BAR
MONROE HD QUICK STRUTS FRONT
QA1 ADJUSTABLE REAR SHOCKS
EATON LIMTED SLIP DIFF:FORD RACING 4.10'S
DUAL AEROMOTIVE 340LPH PUMPS, 40AMP BAP, WITH DUAL FPDM'S
ZACKS BIG BRAKE SWAP w/ TCE SS LINES
SCANGAUGE MONITORING....^....^....^
ALL SECURIED WITH A VIPER SECURITY SYSTEM REMOTELY STARTED BY MY VIPER IPHONE APP
Well, eventually I will upgrade to one of the Wilwood set-ups, but I want to optimize what's on the car now before doing that. I will be getting the ABS pump bled again at my cousin's repair shop - hopefully this time, it will be successful. As explained earlier, I went to a trusted Ford dealership to get this done early in 2019, and after returning the car to me, they told me that it "had only been partially successful"...whatever the hell that means. My cousin has all up-to-date Snap-on equipment, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard. So if these relatively simple upgrades can help, I'm all for it.
So just an fyi - I've sourced a booster and pedal assembly for an '03 CV through my local salvage yard for $125.00 Cdn. Seems like a good price to me. I'm getting my ABS pump re-bled next week, after which we'll see how it is. I've also found several videos online detailing how you can adjust the booster pushrod on a Panther, which I was unaware of previously. It looks pretty simple, but there is a warning not to do this unless your braking system is all working properly. So, first I will re-bleed the ABS, and then possibly adjust the pushrod. If all else fails, I'll do the booster upgrade.
What is the engineering # on the booster you grabbed? Curious. The parts marauder I have which is a 03 300A (don't know the exact build date) has a # ending in BA which is the same as my friends trilogy car, both have great pedal feel.
I might have to keep this booster and throw it on my 300A to see if it has a dramatic change without the stainless lines.
2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005
2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
2063/3214
(Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
5377/7838
2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB
1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors
After driving my work van all week i feel like I’m going to break my face stopping any thing else we have. Of course, I don’t use much brake at all anyways downshifting.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
I actually haven't grabbed it yet - sorry. I realize now how that read. I can order 1 from my yard at any time - my contact says there are at least 3 complete assemblies available whenever I want them. So, I will get the engineering number for you once I have the parts, but it may not be for a week or two.
2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005
2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
2063/3214
(Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
5377/7838
2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB
1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors
I’ve always wanted to put a huge booster on. Never got around to it.
I think it’s the key to ultimate braking
Just a quick update for those who are interested - sorry for the time that has passed. As mentioned, my next step was to have the ABS re-bled, and it did help some. I assisted the tech who did the work, by sitting in the care up on the lift, turning the key on and off, as required. He used an up-to-date Snap-On system. And he did get some additional air out...which surprised both of us.
Afterwards, the pedal did feel better, but still not great. A few nights later I had a cat run in front of me at night, so I slammed on the brakes, activating the ABS. The pedal actually improved a bit more after that.
The next thing I did was install new pads. Although the pads had about half of their life left, I recalled that the sponginess had started after installing them originally. They were carbon graphite pads (as were the new replacements), but when I attempted to bed them originally, it was raining. I assumed at the time that it shouldn't matter, but I got to thinking that perhaps new pads, bedded properly (not in the rain), would eliminate the amount of remaining sponginess. So I completed that process a few weeks ago.
Now, I can honestly say that the pedal is much better than when I started this thread. I asked the tech who did the ABS bleed what he thought after driving the car - he felt that the pedal was good. So, I've decided to drive the car like this for a while and try to be satisfied with it. The problem is that my '05 MGM still has a better pedal. So, since I can't leave well enough alone, I'll probably pick up the booster/pedal assembly I mentioned earlier from the recycler and go about installing that. Once I've done that, I'll post an update in this thread. So, I guess for now, this thread is done. Thanks to everyone for their input.
The brakes on my mothers 2000 Sable with rear drums were 1000% better than my 97 Tbird or Marauder both of which have 4-way disc.
The Marauder brakes were poorly designed.
The brakes on my F250 which weighs 1000s of pounds more will put you through the windshield w/o locking up. Now there's a well designed brake system!
WLB
BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
______________________________ ___________
BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
#2912 of 7093
Conceived 8/6/2002
Delivered 9/19/2002
Adopted 8/10/2011
Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
Pioneer 6x8 Front
Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
JL 6.5 SubWoofer
K&N CAI
Window tint 50% rear/35% front
FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
Mo's Dyno Tune
Gorilla Nuts - The System
Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
______________________________ ________________
Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014
SOLD 12/31/2021
Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
Empty, although they worked real well when it was loaded too. Just didn't need to stomp on them then.
WLB
BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
______________________________ ___________
BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
#2912 of 7093
Conceived 8/6/2002
Delivered 9/19/2002
Adopted 8/10/2011
Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
Pioneer 6x8 Front
Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
JL 6.5 SubWoofer
K&N CAI
Window tint 50% rear/35% front
FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
Mo's Dyno Tune
Gorilla Nuts - The System
Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
______________________________ ________________
Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014
I wanted to verify that the "new" style booster is plug n play. You do not need a different pedal. I put a new style booster in last night. The reason the Marauder booster has an angled eyelet is because of the design of the booster. The booster mounts on an angle. The offset of the eyelet keeps the mounting hole on center of the 4 mounting studs. The new style mounts at a much smaller angle and doesn't need the offset eyelet. The new style booster is bigger, but fits.
Attachment 52687Attachment 52688
You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference
I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard
2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)
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