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Thread: Sway bar bushing-hangers welded to bushing metal wrapping.

  1. #1
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    Sway bar bushing-hangers welded to bushing metal wrapping.

    I went to replace my sway bar bushings, and the metal wrap that in cases the rubber bushing, is welded to the bracket that mounts to the frame. It’s a factory weld.
    Are they all like this? How are others replacing these bushings? Are people cutting the welds off?
    "Barry's" the name;
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    2004 / Black / 1981 of 3214.
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  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rockettman View Post
    I went to replace my sway bar bushings, and the metal wrap that in cases the rubber bushing, is welded to the bracket that mounts to the frame. It’s a factory weld.
    Are they all like this? How are others replacing these bushings? Are people cutting the welds off?
    I've never seen the front or rear bushing retainers welded on. All have been secured with bolts & nut (2 per side in the front and 1 per side in the rear).
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  3. #3
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    It is certainly not a factory weld.


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  4. #4
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    I actually just upgraded my sway bars to Addco front and back. No welds. All bolts and nuts like fastblackmerc said. Do you have pictures of what you have?

  5. #5
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    For the front sway bar center bushings, those have nut zerts that are in the frame. Remove the bolts and the threads stay in the frame. Only thing i can think of is the sway bar end links at the control arm.... those end links will need to be replaced. Rear is just bolt in and go... Shoot us a picture or two.
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  6. #6
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    I know it’s the weirdest thing. But yes, where the u-shaped hanger wraps up to the top, they are welded to a metal cylinder that circles the rubber bushing.
    ugh. I should’ve taken a picture. I don’t have any idea how they’d come off. The rubber bushing is a solid piece too - no split to remove. It’s as if the entire bar would need to be replaced. I’ve never seen that in 40 years under vehicles. (Can’t even think of an aftermarket that would design that...not that I even believe that it is aftermarket).
    "Barry's" the name;
    Drums and Cars are my game

    "I smash the pedal; air and fuel go in; witchcraft happens; I go fast!"

    "No question is stupid, if you don't know the answer!"


    2004 / Black / 1981 of 3214.
    #184 of 509 in black out of 1214 total in all three colors with the moonroof option.

  7. #7
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    Are you the original owner? I ask as that is the only way the bushing would be a factory surprise. Based on you description I suspect someone used replacement bushings and the holes didn't line up so instead of getting the correct parts they just welded it in place. Get the correct parts and go at the welds with a cold chisel. Bolt new parts back on.

  8. #8
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    The OEM front bushings were molded directly to the swaybar and the brackets. The only way to remove a bushing is to cut the bracket. If you buy replacement bushings from Ford they will be more of the standard style with the flat side that mounts up against the frame. You will also have to buy new brackets which are more of the conventional style (U-shaped). The problem is there’s no way to keep the sway bar for moving side to side, the later panther sway bars actually had humps manufactured into them. You could use swaybar locks, but no matter what I tried mine still moves around a little bit and I wish I would’ve never cut off the original bushings.
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  9. #9
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    My original bushings are not molded on the bar nor the brackets. Original owner.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  10. #10
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    Bought mine a year old and same. 2 bolts and swap the bushing from what I recall.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  11. #11
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    I've been having an issue lately with an Addco front sway bar. When I make a sharp turn (either direction), there's a quick "knock" noise. We've traced it down to the sway bar moving side to side ever so little and then hitting the TCE Wilwood brake caliper mounts. We've yet to come up with a fix for this. My latest thinking is to grind down the section of the sway bar that's hitting, but I'm not sure how wise that is. Either way, the bushings aren't holding it in place effectively.
    Best,
    Rick


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    10.44 @ 131.66 MPH | 604 RWHP & 562 RWTQ


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    - Spoiler, MMX Driveshaft, Metco Loop and Control Arms, ADTR Front and Addco Rear Sway Bars, Art Carr Transmission Pan, Eaton Posi, Stud & Girdle kit, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Marauder Door Sills, SS Inserts, Dynamat, Pioneer AVIC-8201NEX with 6x8" 260w Speakers and 12" 1400w Sub-woofer

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rick-n-Miami View Post
    I've been having an issue lately with an Addco front sway bar. When I make a sharp turn (either direction), there's a quick "knock" noise. We've traced it down to the sway bar moving side to side ever so little and then hitting the TCE Wilwood brake caliper mounts. We've yet to come up with a fix for this. My latest thinking is to grind down the section of the sway bar that's hitting, but I'm not sure how wise that is. Either way, the bushings aren't holding it in place effectively.
    You need these is the correct inside diameter.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Howe-23700-...QAAOSwmjZet50k
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  13. #13
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    In the past a call to ADDCO would get you a set of billet locking collars for free.

    Might still be worth a try!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    In the past a call to ADDCO would get you a set of billet locking collars for free.

    Might still be worth a try!
    ^^^This^^^
    Mine came with a pair in the box with the bar's hardware bag

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  15. #15
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    Wow! I'm very happy to learn of these. I've contacted Addco to see if they can supply the correct size (1-1/4"). If not, I'll try one of these.

    Thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    You need these is the correct inside diameter.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Howe-23700-...QAAOSwmjZet50k
    Best,
    Rick


    2004 Silver Birch w/Light Flint Interior
    10.44 @ 131.66 MPH | 604 RWHP & 562 RWTQ


    - Trilogy Supercharger #79 Twinscrew w/ 14PSI, Alternative Auto Forged 5.3 Stroker, Stage III Cams, JLT CAI, 405lph Return Fuel System, XL Heat Exchanger, 4.10's, Built Transmission, SCT 90MM MAF, Custom Tuned by Lidio.

    - Kooks Headers. Magnaflow Cats & 18" Mufflers with 2.5" X-Pipe & Tailpipes. Megs' Res-Delete Tips

    - Widened 9.5" Rear Rims w/Nitto NT555G2 Front Tires and NT555Rii Drag Radials.
       245/45/ZR18 & 305/45/ZR18. TCE Performance Brakes and SS lines.


    - Spoiler, MMX Driveshaft, Metco Loop and Control Arms, ADTR Front and Addco Rear Sway Bars, Art Carr Transmission Pan, Eaton Posi, Stud & Girdle kit, Moser 31 Spline Axles, Marauder Door Sills, SS Inserts, Dynamat, Pioneer AVIC-8201NEX with 6x8" 260w Speakers and 12" 1400w Sub-woofer

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