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Thread: Knock, Knock. Who's there.....

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Orange County Ca
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    Well dang I finally got the timing cover off, at first I was upset everything looked fine the chains were tight other then someone put cheap Chinese parts on it, it looked ok. Then I felt the tension on the driver side chain down around the crank sprocket the chain flops around +/- .250 looks like the chain was dragging on the crescent shaped land on the oil pump the damage does not look bad it just scratched off a small bit of the land. what a pain to get that cover off, now I have to get
    the cam covers off to change out the chains/sprockets. I don't know if the chains stretched or just the tensioner went bad but something is not right...

    it happened suddenly so I think the tensioner failed if the chain stretched it would have happened slowly not all at once. it has cheap plastic tensioners and the chains look like they are very low quality
    2003 Silver Birch Marauder tune by Marty, best $150 I ever spent

  2. #32
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    Next door to my neighbor
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    Chains are normally just fine. Anal OCD guys like me just prefer to change everything, but normally not needed. As for the slack, depending on where the valves are at you could easily have that but the scratching you noticed is pretty much the answer to your question..

    Also when you test rotate it by hand you will notice the timing marks will pretty much never line up again and you will get a nasty chain slap I “think” on the drivers chain. Been seven years or so for me and my mind is slowly going south the older I get.. Anyways that is normal. Just follow the procedure from Ford Racing and you’ll be fine.

    https://performanceparts.ford.com/do...-6004-A464.PDF

    It sounds like the tensioner has failed to hold oil pressure or the ratcheting mechanism has failed from the plastic cracking.

    Those cheap parts are probably factory as some cars had plastic, some steel.

    Also make sure you change out the spark plug well seals when you do the cam covers as they are prone to leak.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  3. #33
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    Mar 2008
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    Next door to my neighbor
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    Knock, Knock. Who's there.....

    Oh and dang your slow. I had my cover off and drivers head w/long tube header still attached removed in under 2 hours!
    You could say I went ballistic on it..

    I had 3 hours to get the head to the head shop to repair my booboo before they closed but at least I had three days after work to reinstall before heading to Louisville for a meet.






    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
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    Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
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    Same thing happened to me when I did this job. Chains were tight when I removed cover but when I turned engine over by hand using a 12 point 1 1/4” socket on crank snout the passenger side tensioner flopped around like crazy. The plastic or composite primary tensioners have an internal spring inside that keep the chains tight when engine is not running. After I replaced those 2 tensioners and turned engine over by hand chains stayed tight. I ended up buying 2 primary chains and 2 composite tensioners from ford dealer. Threw it back together and it worked fine... for a year. Then it developed the annoying head tick. Lol. It’s all apart again but slowly getting car back together. Not terribly inspiring I know but I still love this beast.

  5. #35
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    Dec 2007
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    Orange County Ca
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    should the tensioners hold the chains tight with no oil pressure???? don't they have a ratchet or something that locks them extended? I need to investigate further, if I remember correctly looking at the front of the engine facing the rear of the car the crank rotates clockwise??? am I right or just remembering wrong?

    this thing had gobs of silicone everywhere so I know it's been off before if they did replace the chains with aftermarket chains are they good enough to keep and just replace the tensioners?

    there is a sending unit down by the oil filter Im assuming that is the oil pressure sending unit, I want to put an autometer guage in is that the sending unit I need to change out?
    Last edited by seanpatrick2000; 08-30-2020 at 11:22 AM.
    2003 Silver Birch Marauder tune by Marty, best $150 I ever spent

  6. #36
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    Jan 2017
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    The steel tensioners have the ratcheting mechanism. I have my old composite tensioners on a bench in my garage and they are spring loaded. Hard to push in and spring back to fully extended when released. Definitely enough tension to keep chains tight when not pumped up with oil pressure as would be the case with engine running. Engine rotates counterclockwise when standing in front facing engine. Whether you decide to reuse primary chains is gonna have to be your call. There are 6 spots on timing cover that require some type of oil resistant silicone so there should be some visible but not huge gobs of it if a pro did the work. The sending unit you speak of is the sender for the interior oil pressure gauge

  7. #37
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Orange County Ca
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    IMG_8406.jpgIMG_5032.jpg
    There were gobs of silicone everywhere, this was not a professional repair.
    Here is the driver side tensioner guide, it has no part number cast into it and is worn pretty excessively, not a ford part obviously
    it looks like the side of the chain was actually rubbing on the oil pump slightly as well as rubbing on that crescent land on the pump.
    the down side of the chain was flopping before I removed the tensioner so it was not holding the chain very tight.
    my composition tensioner doesn't look cracked or anything, I can push the plunger down about 1/3 to 1/2 the way then it gets hard to push in further.
    2003 Silver Birch Marauder tune by Marty, best $150 I ever spent

  8. #38
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Orange County Ca
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    How do you get the driver side cam cover off, the passenger side I'm told you unbolt the mount and lift the engine it comes off, is that the same for the driver side?
    I took off the wiper motor module and the throttle body but it's still not clearing , if I take off the upper plenum will that give enough room to get it off
    ?
    2003 Silver Birch Marauder tune by Marty, best $150 I ever spent

  9. #39
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    Jan 2017
    Location
    Regina, Saskatchewan Canada
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    Well my opinion for what it’s worth (not much)is bare minimum get new tensioners of your choice and chain guides. Things can get carried away and expensive after that. Your situation seems similar to mine when I first got my car. Previous owner cheaped out and got his farmer brother-in-law who was pretty handy to do it because dealer wanted a small fortune to do the job. They used aftermarket chains and guides and left old tensioners in there. Didn’t work but I got it cheap. I agree that having a real oil pressure gauge is a great idea so you can monitor that after it’s buttoned up.

  10. #40
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    Jan 2017
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    When I did mine I removed both motor mount bolts, wiper cowl assembly and upper intake and that was enough but it’s still ugly. Didn’t have a clue what I was doing either but the people on here helped me through it. Take your time. Getting in a rush can lead to mistakes

  11. #41
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    Dec 2007
    Location
    Orange County Ca
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    I got new steel tensioners from summit and an autometer oil pressure gauge, the sending unit for the gauge is huge compaired to the stock ford unit
    do I need to get some elbow's and extensions to get it to fit or will it screw in place, I got the digital meter and a digital volt meter to replace the two stock
    gauges in the pod. I'm waiting for gaskets and chain guides I ordered from Napa auto parts, hope they are quality parts and not cheap Chinese crap.
    Im going to reuse the chains if this doesn't fix the problem and I have to pull the engine to rebuild it I'll replace the chains.
    2003 Silver Birch Marauder tune by Marty, best $150 I ever spent

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    NJ
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanpatrick2000 View Post
    I got new steel tensioners from summit and an autometer oil pressure gauge, the sending unit for the gauge is huge compaired to the stock ford unit
    do I need to get some elbow's and extensions to get it to fit or will it screw in place, I got the digital meter and a digital volt meter to replace the two stock
    gauges in the pod. I'm waiting for gaskets and chain guides I ordered from Napa auto parts, hope they are quality parts and not cheap Chinese crap.
    Im going to reuse the chains if this doesn't fix the problem and I have to pull the engine to rebuild it I'll replace the chains.
    get and elbow i just fitted a second pressure sensor on second port of the oil filter adapter. elbow is needed if you dont anything you try will hit the steering rack

    2003 Black 300A #3545 DOB 8/14/2002

    Steeda Underdrives
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  13. #43
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    Does anyone have a link to a wiring diagram for the oil pressure gauge and volt gauge that shows the color code for the wiring?
    my new gauges call for fused power to the back lights I assume that the 12v lighting system on my marauder are already fused?
    what amp fuse does the lighting have the gauges call for 1 amp fast acting fuses, I wonder if I have to add an inline fuse to meet this spec???
    2003 Silver Birch Marauder tune by Marty, best $150 I ever spent

  14. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by seanpatrick2000 View Post
    Does anyone have a link to a wiring diagram for the oil pressure gauge and volt gauge that shows the color code for the wiring?
    my new gauges call for fused power to the back lights I assume that the 12v lighting system on my marauder are already fused?
    what amp fuse does the lighting have the gauges call for 1 amp fast acting fuses, I wonder if I have to add an inline fuse to meet this spec???
    I have diagrams from All Data, it has color coding, all is alredy fused, the oil pressure, volt gauge and cigarette lighter operated off one fuse. youll have to add in that one amp fuse, lowest ford goes is 10-5 PM me. I can send over alot of crap

    2003 Black 300A #3545 DOB 8/14/2002

    Steeda Underdrives
    BBK 65MM Throttle Body
    Transmission optimized to the nines by yours truly
    Marty Ochs Tunes
    Auburn LSD, FPP 3.73's
    Stainless Works Exhaust
    ADTR Henious Billet Arms
    ADTR Ridetech "Coilovers"
    Addco Sway Bar
    PS Z32 Brakes
    N a Whole lot more

  15. #45
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
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    20,353
    A few thousand Marauders have simply spliced into the OEM wires and never had an issue.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

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