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Thread: Right rear caliper seizing

  1. #1
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    Right rear caliper seizing

    Went for a long toot yesterday just for the heck of it. Car worked fine all day, mostly back roads, till I needed to stop and back up to read some guys rant plywood sign on the evils of Trump. When I hit the brake this time I got the positive whiff of burning brake pads. Lots of stopping previously in the day with no malodorous air of brake. Drove home which was at that point only a couple of slow miles. Went around the car feeling the wheels to see which one was hot and of course the right rear was the culprit. Every Ford product I've ever owned has had the right rear caliper freeze up, Why? I imagine the slides are pitted and starting to rust so a new caliper is in my future. Might just get all four and G2 them. Anyone have any idea what goes wrong with calipers that they seize suddenly? What kind of preventive maintenance do you guys do to keep the brakes working like new?

    Thanks for any advice.

    PS: Which piston is better, metal or phenolic?
    Last edited by Mr. Man; 08-16-2020 at 03:59 PM.

  2. #2
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    I just finished rebuilding my rears for the heck of it. Cheaper, and no core to return. All I can say is plenty of anti seize!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  3. #3
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    Doesn't your car sit a lot and outside? I know its low mile, part of that could contribute to a caliper sticking.

    Factory calipers have phenolic pistons, either choice realistically will work fine.


    2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005

    2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
    440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
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    (Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
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    2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB

    1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors

  4. #4
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    I’ve also heard of the parking brake shoe hardware coming apart inside.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  5. #5
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    9 out of 10 times the pads are frozen in the slides due to rust buildup, especially when things sit. When installing the pads I do a dry test fit with the pads and shims in the bracket to make sure they slide freely. Quite regularly new pads aren't stamped perfectly or have excess paint on the ears. After any necessary trimming during the dry run liberally apply a quality brake grease under and on top of the shims.

    Regarding calipers seizing it seems to happen more often these days. I haven't really investigated the causes, generally assumed there was corrosion inside the caliper preventing the piston from sliding back in. The braking system generates lots of pressure to push the pistons out while the rotor generates minimal pressure to go back in.

    Also fairly common these days is brake hose failure. The rubber hose swells inside causing a restriction and effectively turning into a check valve.
    2003 300a Trilogy #? 4.10s
    2000 Excursion limited v10
    1997 F350 7.3 5spd 4x4 (service truck)
    1992 Taurus SHO vortec SC 5spd
    1971 GMC 2500 pickup
    1971 GMC 2500 suburban 4x4
    1967 Camaro (basket case)

  6. #6
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    I wouldn't be surprised if it was a rust issue. Just seems weird it always seems to be the right rear, and why would it suddenly seize after driving around for a couple hours?

    Probably going to get some new ones and G2 them if I can figure out what color I want.

  7. #7
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    Multiple things to check when signs of brake caliper failure. Always good maintenance.
    1)Flush brake fluid every two years. Use quality dot 3 brake fluid.
    2) Emergency brake. See if operable & free.
    3) Pinched or collapsed brake line. Check brake fluid flows freely.
    4) Frozen calipers pistons. Both pistons move freely & even pad wear.
    5) Pads to tight pitted bent or gunked up slides with dirt sand.




    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Man View Post
    I wouldn't be surprised if it was a rust issue. Just seems weird it always seems to be the right rear, and why would it suddenly seize after driving around for a couple hours?

    Probably going to get some new ones and G2 them if I can figure out what color I want.
    2004 marauder black purchased new. Sold 9/16 at 297,000 miles. Still ran strong didn't burn a drop of oil.
    2003 marauder black 28,000 miles all stock. Garage Queen.
    2004 marauder red daily driver.

  8. #8
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    Coincidentally I was helping a friend with his truck yesterday. As luck would have it, the right rear brakes were hanging up and wore the inside pad to the metal.
    2002 F250, the brakes were supposedly about a year old.
    One of the caliper pins was rusted absolutely solid in the caliper bracket. There was no visible issues with the rubber boot. Was unable to get the pin out with heat and penetrating oil. Replaced the bracket, pins and boots in addition to the pads and rotors.

    Caliper pin /slider https://imgur.com/gallery/xQOanzs
    2003 300a Trilogy #? 4.10s
    2000 Excursion limited v10
    1997 F350 7.3 5spd 4x4 (service truck)
    1992 Taurus SHO vortec SC 5spd
    1971 GMC 2500 pickup
    1971 GMC 2500 suburban 4x4
    1967 Camaro (basket case)

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Man View Post
    Went for a long toot yesterday just for the heck of it. Car worked fine all day, mostly back roads, till I needed to stop and back up to read some guys rant plywood sign on the evils of Trump. When I hit the brake this time I got the positive whiff of burning brake pads. Lots of stopping previously in the day with no malodorous air of brake. Drove home which was at that point only a couple of slow miles. Went around the car feeling the wheels to see which one was hot and of course the right rear was the culprit. Every Ford product I've ever owned has had the right rear caliper freeze up, Why? I imagine the slides are pitted and starting to rust so a new caliper is in my future. Might just get all four and G2 them. Anyone have any idea what goes wrong with calipers that they seize suddenly? What kind of preventive maintenance do you guys do to keep the brakes working like new?

    Thanks for any advice.

    PS: Which piston is better, metal or phenolic?
    G2 them? what's that mean? Never heard it before.

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by MyBlackBeasts View Post
    G2 them? what's that mean? Never heard it before.
    G2 paint


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  11. #11
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    Of the Panthers I’ve owned that have had rust, they have all rusted worse on the passenger side near the rear wheels than the driver’s side. No idea why. But maybe that phenomenon is leading to that caliper failing?

    (probably not, idunno)
    '03 Marauder | '91 Country Squire | '18 Flex Ecoboost | '92 Shadow VT1100
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  12. #12
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    In salting states the melted and unbroken chunks all collect on the side of the road. That has always been my theory.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    G2 paint


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Thanks Bob! Had me going, thought I missed some sort of brake mod!

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

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