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Thread: Rear Shock R&R

  1. #1
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    Rear Shock Remove and Replace

    I’m wondering if my air suspension has been kicking in more (now averages a short 3-5 second refill of the airbags every 3 minutes or so) because the rear shocks are shot? Not sure of the relationship there. The rear shocks are definitely toast, so that can’t help the air bags which are in good shape.

    Anyway, I have replacement shocks along with a parts kit for each one. Any tips for replacing them? Can the car be backed up on ramps or should the rear wheels hang? Or does it even matter? Thanks.
    Last edited by Svashtar; 08-27-2020 at 09:26 AM.

  2. #2
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    Turn air suspension off in trunk if axle is hanging, which I don't recommend for the air springs to hold the weight of axle.
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by RubberCtyRauder View Post
    Turn air suspension off in trunk if axle is hanging, which I don't recommend for the air springs to hold the weight of axle.
    Thanks. I definitely want to back the car up onto ramps to make it easier to access, but wasn't sure if the shocks should be under load or not. I know this has been covered here before but the Search function here is pretty bad.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  4. #4
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    Bad shocks should not cause the air suspension to cycle more often. You may have an air system leak which should cause the rear end to slowly sink when the car is off. The cycle for the marauder air system is for the exhaust valve to let air out after the car is shut off until it reaches "resting height". I do not believe it does this until a door has been opened and then all doors are closed again (as if you exited the car). At that point, after the exhaust has finished, measure from the ground to the top of the rear wheel well lip. Make a note of it. Measure again the next day. It should not change, if it went down you have a leak.

    Leaking bags
    Leaking lines
    Bad pump
    I believe that rest of the valves are in/part of the replacement pump but....
    Bad check inlet check valve
    Bad exhaust valve.
    2018 F-250 6.7L Crew Cab 4x4
    2013 Dodge Charge R/T Daily Driver/Beater - All original 208K miles and counting
    Sold - 04 Marauder, Silver, Dark Interior, Factory Sunroof.
    Z-Tune, JLT CAI, Z&M Control Arms, KYB Shocks, BC4E Dead Pedal, Pro Guard, Sparta Watts links, R1 Slotted Front Rotors, Braided SS Brake Lines, Automatic Traction Control "Turner-Offer".
    4.10 FRPP gears awaiting install (on extended hold).

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Green96 View Post
    Bad shocks should not cause the air suspension to cycle more often. You may have an air system leak which should cause the rear end to slowly sink when the car is off. The cycle for the marauder air system is for the exhaust valve to let air out after the car is shut off until it reaches "resting height". I do not believe it does this until a door has been opened and then all doors are closed again (as if you exited the car). At that point, after the exhaust has finished, measure from the ground to the top of the rear wheel well lip. Make a note of it. Measure again the next day. It should not change, if it went down you have a leak.

    Leaking bags
    Leaking lines
    Bad pump
    I believe that rest of the valves are in/part of the replacement pump but....
    Bad check inlet check valve
    Bad exhaust valve.
    Thanks for the info. I just drove it for an hour around town, and confirmed the pump runs very briefly, maybe 3 seconds every five minutes or so. I have new bags and solenoids from 2-3 years ago. After the car sat all night the ride height looked fine in back, but I’ll follow your procedure and check.

    Like an idiot, and not making excuses but with piss poor advice from Arnott, I stressed the living $&@t out of the last 1” of the white airline on each side where it went into the solenoid, because rather than just depressing the orange ring and removing the line, I sprayed silicone in there and pulled off the old solenoid as instructed. The last bit of the line stretched, but looked fine when I re-installed it and has been working well all this time.

    I suppose it could be the pump. Only two things changed in the last two days just before this started happening: the first is I carried a few hundred pounds of weight in back for the first time in a year, and the second is I pushed against a bunch of wires under the dash to remove the LCM. Right after that this started and the Air Bag light (not air susp) comes on.

    I’ll measure and see what I find; thanks again!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
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    Rear Shock R&R

    FYI, height has been exactly the same since I got out of the car 16 hours ago. On both sides, hasn’t budged a fraction. Riding high in the rear, plenty of space over the rear tires.

    I must have effed something up under the dash removing LCM, but will verify once I get the LCM re-installed.

    I believe the air bag needs to be removed anyway for the blend door actuator install so I can check its connections then if the bag light is still on.

    Not sure about the air bags though as they certainly aren’t leaking. Thanks for the info on them in any case.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

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