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Thread: SW headers - going in!

  1. #1
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    SW headers - going in!

    Guys,
    Does anyone have a tip or two for getting at the hard to access header to block bolts, bottom row - the two closest to the front of the car? (in order to tighten down...got the top row from above and the rear-ward bottom 2 from below relatively easily).
    Thanks
    -KK
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  2. #2
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    The passenger side?

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk
    2004 SB Mercury Marauder
    2003 Mercury Marauder 300B

  3. #3
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    yes, passenger side...I'm thinking driver side will be easy.
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  4. #4
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    Use SS studs, not bolts.

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
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  5. #5
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    Yeah I know...some say studs, some say bolts. The bolts came with the kit. In either case, My question is the same.
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    SW headers - going in!

    Nobody says bolts. Anyways Lower the A/C compressor down and forward and have a good selection of bent wrenches. I have a few different sets of cheap harbor Freight pre bent wrenchs just for tight spots like this that I seldom have to do. They work great.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  7. #7
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    Also you can get an easy 3 more inches simply by removing the two 18MM engine mount nuts, jacking it up and setting a heavy duty deep impact socket under the mounts for safety and set the engine down right on them. Certainly helps sliding the header into place as well..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  8. #8
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    Also use OEM manifold gaskets. They last forever and don't blow out. DO NOT use the supplied gaskets or any other fancy gasket with false claims of superior sealing. I've even reused the factory gaskets with no issue.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  9. #9
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    Guys thanks. I'll consider switching to studs. I did get OEM gaskets :-)
    I've not yet put the engine mount nuts back on since dropping in the block, so lifting it up will be easy...except I'll need to disconnect the Vortech at both ends of the intercooler which is mounted to the radiator support structure.

    Thanks again
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    Also use OEM manifold gaskets. They last forever and don't blow out.
    DO NOT use the supplied gaskets or any other fancy gasket with false claims of superior sealing.
    I've even reused the factory gaskets with no issue.
    +1!

    Yep!
    The OEM multi-layer stainless steel gaskets work great!
    2020 Ford Ranger STX DFI Turbo 2.3L 10 speed Auto
    2017 Ford Fusion Sport DFI Twin Turbo 2.7L V6 6 speed Auto (14.000 ET bone stock in 82 degree heat)
    1985 Mustang GT 5.0 Hatchback 4bbl 5 speed manual (525 HP 363 Dart block/AFR heads with Magnum 6 speed in the works)
    1984 Mustang GT 2.3 Turbo Convertible FI. 5 speed manual
    1966 427 Cobra (ERA) 468 all Aluminum FE 2x4bbl 5 speed manual

    SOLD : 2003 Mercury Marauder FI. 4 speed Auto
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    Also use OEM manifold gaskets. They last forever and don't blow out.
    Well, I mean...my 140k OEM gaskets were positively trashed and leaking when I took my manifolds off. But they're certainly a durable piece and I put new Ford pieces on when I did mine.
    '03 Marauder | '91 Country Squire | '18 Flex Ecoboost | '92 Shadow VT1100
    former Panthers: '02 MGM, '04 MGM, '04 MGM v2.0, '04 MM, '07 P71 w/5-speed, '04 CVLX, '03 SAP P71, '10 P7B
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    Quote Originally Posted by offroadkarter View Post
    Reinhart's tuning skills were comparable to an ape slapping the keyboard in microsoft excel.

  12. #12
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    OK, headers in. That was a bit of a tussle.
    I started with the pass side header. The forward 2 bolts on the lower side were difficult to get to, however, when I removed the relocated coolant reservoir (no coolant in system yet) , the wheel well cowling, and a few hoses, access got a bit easier. Using a ratcheting closed box wrench I was able to tighten everything down (yes, I did use the bolts, not nuts/studs).
    Over to the drivers side.. I replaced the motor mounts while I had the engine out...used non OEM parts purchased from Rock Auto. This was several months ago. Now, when trying to hang the drivers side header on the 4 lower 1/2 inserted bolts, the header would not hang on all 4 at once due to interference from the motor mount. Grrr. I determined to do some clearancing on the mount, shaving away a bit of the metal at the very top of the mount which was in the way. Working from below with an angle grinder and from above with a dremmel, I took off a bit, and thought it would be enough. It wasn't. I did a little more clearancing. While on my back under the car I noticed the motor mounts were not sitting flush on the cross member. They were sitting at a small angle with the center of the car portion of both mounts tilted up just a bit. I had not tightened down the 18mm motor mount nuts after putting the engine back in because I thought there was a 50/50 chance I'd be taking it back out again before system start up. Hmm. so I tightened them up to spec, and wala, clearance enough to hang the header. Again, just as on pass side, the two forward bottom bolts were the most difficult to tighten, but I got it done.
    Last edited by azgolfrat; 01-26-2021 at 12:24 PM.
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  13. #13
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    Chandler Arizona
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    Posts
    310
    Guys,
    Now that the headers are in, I'm looking at all the stuff I need to get at least 1/2 inch away from the header heat...I've read about the starter cabling, so I'll be very careful with that. I am wonder about the tranny cable ..it comes down past the steering linkage and gets darn close to the header. There is a bracket down there ...about as long as your index finger ..is the tranny cable to be connected to that bracket?

    Any other potential "melt events" I need to be careful with?

    Thanks again for all the help.
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  14. #14
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    I seem to remember the cable going to a bracket on the frame that needed to be bent slightly for clearance. Been a good while since I’ve done them and everything automatic is long gone to look back on.

    Make sure the A/C harness and o2 wiring is all tucked away.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  15. #15
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    Oct 2020
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    JB,
    Yea - O2 sensor wiring and AC harness and starter wiring looks to be what needs to be protected one way or the other.
    Any tips on how to insert and tighten that 3rd starter bolt with header in? Got the 1st two, but that highest one up is tough.
    Thanks
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

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