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Thread: Engine ground cable from negative battery post

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
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    Engine ground cable from negative battery post

    Hey Guys,

    Question; in my overly enthusiastic ripping out my battery originated cables about 1.5 yrs ago, when my supercharger-engine and tranny rebuild project started, I didn't get a good photo of where the negative cable from the battery attaches to the block (stock config). Would anyone happen to know? I've added a supercharger, so some of the front passenger side of the block is now unavailable.

    FYI - the little strap from the negative cable that connects to the fender wall right near the battery I got handled.

    Many thanks!
    -KK
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR kit, Shift kit in transmission, planning stainless work long pipes and cat backs. ECD for start up Feb 14 2021.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by azgolfrat View Post
    Hey Guys,

    Question; in my overly enthusiastic ripping out my battery originated cables about 1.5 yrs ago, when my supercharger-engine and tranny rebuild project started, I didn't get a good photo of where the negative cable from the battery attaches to the block (stock config). Would anyone happen to know? I've added a supercharger, so some of the front passenger side of the block is now unavailable.

    FYI - the little strap from the negative cable that connects to the fender wall right near the battery I got handled.

    Many thanks!
    -KK
    Good thing i wasn't so excited as much as you two years ago when i ripped the engine and tranny out lol
    One to the frame, you got it covered
    And one should be bolted to one of the valve cover bolts, you will find it joining the positive wiring loom from the battery and going to the starter the ground wire will stick out of the loom near the passenger side valve cover, but you can bolt it any where you like as long its bolted to the engine.

    Sent from my ASUS_I003DD using Tapatalk

  3. #3
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    Stock was timing cover stud I believe.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Chandler Arizona
    Age
    61
    Posts
    52
    Thanks! Got it.
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR kit, Shift kit in transmission, planning stainless work long pipes and cat backs. ECD for start up Feb 14 2021.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    Stock was timing cover stud I believe.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    This is correct
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1SC
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD)

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