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Thread: Cooling mod for rear of cylinder head

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    New York
    Age
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    Cooling mod for rear of cylinder head

    So today I tackled the cylinder head cooling mod and figured I would give my write up and advise for those that are new to Marauders and 32 valve motors like myself. I had a few set backs that caused more time, but with replacing thermostat also total time I would say took me 6 hours with going to store, stopping when friends came by (I will explain later) 8 hours with everything and clean up

    If I missed anything or anyone has something to add/change let me know. Admin feel free to make sticky if you like

    Parts/tools needed;
    1) Cooling mod Kit - I purchased mine from Marty
    2) 5/8 Heater hose - I got 6 feet just so I had plenty, probably used 3-4 feet total. I used heavy duty red from Napa, If you use silicone remember to get correct clamps, not worm clamps
    3) Coolant - My car uses G05, I picked up 2 gallons and 1 gallon distilled water, used near all of it.
    4) I am guessing the EGR tube size is 1 and 1/8th wrench, I bought home from my job where all my tools are a 15/16 and 1" wrench and both were too small, so had to resort to adjustable wrench
    5) Fuel line disconnect tool
    6) Most of the bolts I took off were either 10MM or 8MM (5/16 same as 8MM)
    7) Upper and lower intake gasket set
    8) If you want to be prepared new COT plug in case destroy old one coming out. I had one ready which I will use, luckily mine came out ok.
    9) Heater hose clamps

    disassembly;
    1) drain coolant,
    2) Disconnect Battery if you want to be safe, I did not, I live on the edge
    3) Remove intake tube (I have K&N)
    4) Disconnect TPS, IAC, and any other electrical plugs you see going to upper intake
    5) Disconnect EGR tube (see above for size)
    6) Disconnect Accelerator and trans cables from Throttle body, then brackets for cables and flip out of the way.
    7) Disconnect any vacuum hoses and lines to upper intake
    8) Unbolt and remove upper intake manifold.
    9) Work on lower intake, disconnect fuel injector plugs, any electrical connectors going to sensor and vacuum hoses on lower manifold
    10) I did not remove Alternator or COT tube, it would be a little easier with them out of the way if you rather more room, I just removed the bracket on top of Alternator and bent the hold down tabs that go under that bracket for COT so I was able to pull lower intake up. Without bending them they are in the way, so if you take Alternator and tube off that would not need to be done
    Unbolt lower intake and remove from vehicle.
    11) I filled the intake runners on the head with paper towels so not to have anything go down the runner, Some people put a strip of tape across holes.
    12) Remove intake gaskets and clean area of dirt and debris

    Install Fittings to rear of cylinder head;
    1) You need to remove the freeze out plugs in the rear of the head that you can see facing up towards the hood, not like the Mustangs in the back of the head facing firewall. The first one I remove came out nice and easy. If you tap on one side of the plug it will usually spin and the other side will stick out and you can grab it and pull it out, since this is my first one I performed I did not realize there is a ledge in the rear most part under freeze out plug so when I hit the furthest back of the plug to spin the front of the plug up the rear only goes down a little, you cant spin the plug 90 degrees that way, but I got the first on up enough to the get a screw driver under the front of the plug and pull it up. I am not sure if hitting the front most part of the plug would allow the rear of freeze out plug to spin 90 degrees??? The second one I did I was not so lucky, it did not spin and the plug went into the head further now resting on the ledge I mentioned. What a MFer to get out at this point not having all my tools from my job at home, after breaking through the plug and a lot of prying I got it out 45 minutes later and a lot of cursing. See pics below
    2) Clean inside holes where Freeze plugs were, I had to run some sandpaper in the one that gave me a hard time from prying leaving marks.
    3) Install the adapters and o-ring in the kit with supplied bolts into the hole where freeze plugs were, they are threaded to accept the 1/2 to 5/8 barb fittings supplied in the kit. I added a little silicone on o-ring also.
    4) Install 90 degree 1/2 NPT to 5/8 barb fitting into adapter, I used liquid teflon sealer on threads. This was one of my set backs, the kit I received had 1 correct fitting and 1 incorrect (it was 3/8 NPT to 1/2 Barb) Not Marty's fault, their supplier must have packaged incorrect. So you will see in my pictures 1 side is different as I had to go to home depot and they only had a straight fitting, so then to Napa to get a 90 degree elbow
    5) Once those are installed in head run new 5/8 hoses across the 2 fittings with a t-fitting that comes in the kit in between- see pictures
    6) Next I cut the heater hose as in diagram below to install second 5/8 barb T-fitting included in the kit
    7) Run new heater hose from 1 T-fitting to the other, don't forget to tighten all clamps
    8) You need to trim rear of the lower intake manifold to clear the adapter installed, I may have needed to cut more because of the large fitting on passenger side I used (see pictures of fitting). Before removing lower intake you can look back there and see where you need to trim that kind of covers a little of freeze out plug opening. I trimmed drivers side very slightly, when I test fitted intake looked like that side might touch.

    Reassemble;
    1) At this point basically reverse order of disassembly. Install lower intake gasket, remove whatever you covered intake runner with-Tape or Towels
    Once I had everything back together I followed the cooling system fill/burp procedure here;
    https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...Burp-Procedure


    Once I had intake off I did not like how the wiring harness in the rear kind of rest on cylinder head (can see in 1 of the pictures below), to me might be an area of rub through. Also harness seems close to EGR tube, but I guess the covering on the EGR tube works well, I did not see any melting on harness covering. I may do something where harness sits against head and also heater hose added that goes near EGR tube.

    This first picture shows the Freeze out plugs you will be removing

    20210327_085519.jpg

    This second picture shows the freeze out plugs removed, the one that came out nice, and the pain in the butt one
    20210327_094205.jpg

    This third picture shows how I ran across the fitting and hoses
    20210327_115730.jpg


    This 4th picture shows where I connected to the heater hose with the "T", I moved the valve on top of it for better access
    20210327_121550.jpg


    This 5th picture shows completed hoses and fittings
    20210327_121538.jpg


    This diagram Marty sent me, he told me they do not remove the red in the diagram and do not cap COT, just leave it there, so that's what I did
    thumbnail_LI.jpg

    2003 Marauder Purchased Feb. 2021 from original owner 62,000 miles
    Cylinder Head Cooling Mod from Marty
    K&N Cold Air Intake
    SCT 4 with custom Tune
    Stainless Works Cat Back exhaust with Magnaflow 10416 mufflers
    4:10 gears with Cobra Carbon posi disc and Ford Girdle cover
    Real Oil pressure gauge Autometer
    Morimoto XB LED fog lights from Panther Lights
    Headlight bulbs GTR Lighting Ultra 2.0 from Panther Lights
    TCI Trans. Pan
    Aeromotive 340 fuel pump


  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
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    APPLE VALLEY,CA
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    1,370
    My mechanic used the Lethal Performance cooling mod kit they offer when we had the heads off of silver to fix the broken exhaust valve.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    Timbuk3, MI
    Posts
    2,441

    Lightbulb

    Preface: Haven't done it, and I tend to over-engineer ...

    FFT (Food For Thought)

    • Using severe service silicone hose rather than standard heater hose.
    • Using stainless steel liner clamps rather than standard worm clamps.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2020
    Location
    New York
    Age
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    Posts
    120
    Good option, I did mention silicone hose with correct clamps in write up. Over engineering is a good thing, unless you work on German cars and see it in excess. I am sure you can plumb up a AN setup, that would be nice

    2003 Marauder Purchased Feb. 2021 from original owner 62,000 miles
    Cylinder Head Cooling Mod from Marty
    K&N Cold Air Intake
    SCT 4 with custom Tune
    Stainless Works Cat Back exhaust with Magnaflow 10416 mufflers
    4:10 gears with Cobra Carbon posi disc and Ford Girdle cover
    Real Oil pressure gauge Autometer
    Morimoto XB LED fog lights from Panther Lights
    Headlight bulbs GTR Lighting Ultra 2.0 from Panther Lights
    TCI Trans. Pan
    Aeromotive 340 fuel pump


  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Somewhere in the N.C. Triangle
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    I still have the kit sold (and installed) by that guy in Orange Park Florida. Still works good.
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Marcy, NY
    Posts
    124
    Hey @NickT02LS, what exactly comes in Marty's kit? I know hoses aren't included.

    Anyone else still make a cooling mod "kit"?
    2003 Marauder 300A #1782 of 7093 | (SOLD - Gone but not forgotten)

  7. #7
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    Location
    New York
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prospect62 View Post
    Hey @NickT02LS, what exactly comes in Marty's kit? I know hoses aren't included.

    Anyone else still make a cooling mod "kit"?
    Kit basically comes with the fittings and tee fittings, the hoses and clamps you need to get, and coolant if want to replace at the same time. I also did Thermostat at the same time too.

    2003 Marauder Purchased Feb. 2021 from original owner 62,000 miles
    Cylinder Head Cooling Mod from Marty
    K&N Cold Air Intake
    SCT 4 with custom Tune
    Stainless Works Cat Back exhaust with Magnaflow 10416 mufflers
    4:10 gears with Cobra Carbon posi disc and Ford Girdle cover
    Real Oil pressure gauge Autometer
    Morimoto XB LED fog lights from Panther Lights
    Headlight bulbs GTR Lighting Ultra 2.0 from Panther Lights
    TCI Trans. Pan
    Aeromotive 340 fuel pump


  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Marcy, NY
    Posts
    124
    *Not* plugging the hose that runs between the heater core and the COT seems like it would defeat the entire purpose of this mod. The coolant isn't under much pressure and it's going to take the path of least resistance coming out of the heater core, which is straight up front back to the COT, not UP into the red mod hose. Or am I not understanding something?
    2003 Marauder 300A #1782 of 7093 | (SOLD - Gone but not forgotten)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
    1,604
    Mine runs to the heater core and the COT hose is deleted. This is the one I have....

    http://www.cobraengineering.net/cooling%20mod.html
    .
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    The Dirty South
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    3,836
    Quote Originally Posted by Prospect62 View Post
    *Not* plugging the hose that runs between the heater core and the COT seems like it would defeat the entire purpose of this mod. The coolant isn't under much pressure and it's going to take the path of least resistance coming out of the heater core, which is straight up front back to the COT, not UP into the red mod hose. Or am I not understanding something?
    Output of the heater core returns to the rear of the water pump via the steel tube in the valley, not to the COT

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Oct 2018
    Location
    Marcy, NY
    Posts
    124
    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    Output of the heater core returns to the rear of the water pump via the steel tube in the valley, not to the COT
    Ah. So this kit taps off the *input* to the heater core?
    2003 Marauder 300A #1782 of 7093 | (SOLD - Gone but not forgotten)

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Prospect62 View Post
    Ah. So this kit taps off the *input* to the heater core?
    No, this kit should return to the steel pipe in the valley.

  13. #13
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    Location
    New York
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    120
    Sorry if that picture is confusing, I forgot when it was sent to me I believe I asked about that, there is a t-fitting in the heater hose that retains the red hose in the picture.

    2003 Marauder Purchased Feb. 2021 from original owner 62,000 miles
    Cylinder Head Cooling Mod from Marty
    K&N Cold Air Intake
    SCT 4 with custom Tune
    Stainless Works Cat Back exhaust with Magnaflow 10416 mufflers
    4:10 gears with Cobra Carbon posi disc and Ford Girdle cover
    Real Oil pressure gauge Autometer
    Morimoto XB LED fog lights from Panther Lights
    Headlight bulbs GTR Lighting Ultra 2.0 from Panther Lights
    TCI Trans. Pan
    Aeromotive 340 fuel pump


  14. #14
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Georgia
    Age
    21
    Posts
    74
    I really gotta get off my ass and do that cooling mod. Never really know where to start, but since there are kits out there I may as well buy one. Is there one that's "the best" or no? I was probably just gonna get Marty's kit and do that one.
    2003 300B Mercury Marauder
    Built 01/22/03
    Purchased 01/29/20
    68,xxx miles

    July 12, 2023 - 68,203 Miles - RIP original engine

    October 31, 2023 - Rebuilt engine installed

    Modifications/Stuff I have done on the car:
    Engine:
    rebuilt stock; slightly overbore. Original 68k mile heads, new OEM Ford performance timing kit, Terminator Cobra Oil Pump, Billet Steel oil pump gears, ARP head studs, main cap studs, and side bolts. The latter ARP stuff for future endeavors.
    Transmission:
    Thor 2800-3000 Stall Converter
    Suspension:
    ADTR Front + Rear Sway Bars
    Metco Billet Watts Link
    Metco Billet Rear Control Arms
    Cosmetic:
    1998-2003 Amber tail lamp conversion - Painted and smoked to near-OEM spec.
    HID Projector Headlamp Retrofit
    OEM Mercury Mountaineer Hitch Cover
    Front in-channel rain guards
    Other Stuff:
    4-pin trailer harness
    Class III Tow Hitch
    Cadillac 4-note horns
    Hayden 679 Transmission Cooler
    Obligatory Marty Tune

  15. #15
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    Aug 2020
    Location
    New York
    Age
    59
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    Quote Originally Posted by baloneyhomie View Post
    I really gotta get off my ass and do that cooling mod. Never really know where to start, but since there are kits out there I may as well buy one. Is there one that's "the best" or no? I was probably just gonna get Marty's kit and do that one.
    You are in Georgia, send it to Marty if you can find the motivation

    2003 Marauder Purchased Feb. 2021 from original owner 62,000 miles
    Cylinder Head Cooling Mod from Marty
    K&N Cold Air Intake
    SCT 4 with custom Tune
    Stainless Works Cat Back exhaust with Magnaflow 10416 mufflers
    4:10 gears with Cobra Carbon posi disc and Ford Girdle cover
    Real Oil pressure gauge Autometer
    Morimoto XB LED fog lights from Panther Lights
    Headlight bulbs GTR Lighting Ultra 2.0 from Panther Lights
    TCI Trans. Pan
    Aeromotive 340 fuel pump


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