So today I tackled the cylinder head cooling mod and figured I would give my write up and advise for those that are new to Marauders and 32 valve motors like myself. I had a few set backs that caused more time, but with replacing thermostat also total time I would say took me 6 hours with going to store, stopping when friends came by (I will explain later) 8 hours with everything and clean up
If I missed anything or anyone has something to add/change let me know. Admin feel free to make sticky if you like
Parts/tools needed;
1) Cooling mod Kit - I purchased mine from Marty
2) 5/8 Heater hose - I got 6 feet just so I had plenty, probably used 3-4 feet total. I used heavy duty red from Napa, If you use silicone remember to get correct clamps, not worm clamps
3) Coolant - My car uses G05, I picked up 2 gallons and 1 gallon distilled water, used near all of it.
4) I am guessing the EGR tube size is 1 and 1/8th wrench, I bought home from my job where all my tools are a 15/16 and 1" wrench and both were too small, so had to resort to adjustable wrench
5) Fuel line disconnect tool
6) Most of the bolts I took off were either 10MM or 8MM (5/16 same as 8MM)
7) Upper and lower intake gasket set
8) If you want to be prepared new COT plug in case destroy old one coming out. I had one ready which I will use, luckily mine came out ok.
9) Heater hose clamps
disassembly;
1) drain coolant,
2) Disconnect Battery if you want to be safe, I did not, I live on the edge
3) Remove intake tube (I have K&N)
4) Disconnect TPS, IAC, and any other electrical plugs you see going to upper intake
5) Disconnect EGR tube (see above for size)
6) Disconnect Accelerator and trans cables from Throttle body, then brackets for cables and flip out of the way.
7) Disconnect any vacuum hoses and lines to upper intake
8) Unbolt and remove upper intake manifold.
9) Work on lower intake, disconnect fuel injector plugs, any electrical connectors going to sensor and vacuum hoses on lower manifold
10) I did not remove Alternator or COT tube, it would be a little easier with them out of the way if you rather more room, I just removed the bracket on top of Alternator and bent the hold down tabs that go under that bracket for COT so I was able to pull lower intake up. Without bending them they are in the way, so if you take Alternator and tube off that would not need to be done
Unbolt lower intake and remove from vehicle.
11) I filled the intake runners on the head with paper towels so not to have anything go down the runner, Some people put a strip of tape across holes.
12) Remove intake gaskets and clean area of dirt and debris
Install Fittings to rear of cylinder head;
1) You need to remove the freeze out plugs in the rear of the head that you can see facing up towards the hood, not like the Mustangs in the back of the head facing firewall. The first one I remove came out nice and easy. If you tap on one side of the plug it will usually spin and the other side will stick out and you can grab it and pull it out, since this is my first one I performed I did not realize there is a ledge in the rear most part under freeze out plug so when I hit the furthest back of the plug to spin the front of the plug up the rear only goes down a little, you cant spin the plug 90 degrees that way, but I got the first on up enough to the get a screw driver under the front of the plug and pull it up. I am not sure if hitting the front most part of the plug would allow the rear of freeze out plug to spin 90 degrees??? The second one I did I was not so lucky, it did not spin and the plug went into the head further now resting on the ledge I mentioned. What a MFer to get out at this point not having all my tools from my job at home, after breaking through the plug and a lot of prying I got it out 45 minutes later and a lot of cursing. See pics below
2) Clean inside holes where Freeze plugs were, I had to run some sandpaper in the one that gave me a hard time from prying leaving marks.
3) Install the adapters and o-ring in the kit with supplied bolts into the hole where freeze plugs were, they are threaded to accept the 1/2 to 5/8 barb fittings supplied in the kit. I added a little silicone on o-ring also.
4) Install 90 degree 1/2 NPT to 5/8 barb fitting into adapter, I used liquid teflon sealer on threads. This was one of my set backs, the kit I received had 1 correct fitting and 1 incorrect (it was 3/8 NPT to 1/2 Barb) Not Marty's fault, their supplier must have packaged incorrect. So you will see in my pictures 1 side is different as I had to go to home depot and they only had a straight fitting, so then to Napa to get a 90 degree elbow
5) Once those are installed in head run new 5/8 hoses across the 2 fittings with a t-fitting that comes in the kit in between- see pictures
6) Next I cut the heater hose as in diagram below to install second 5/8 barb T-fitting included in the kit
7) Run new heater hose from 1 T-fitting to the other, don't forget to tighten all clamps
8) You need to trim rear of the lower intake manifold to clear the adapter installed, I may have needed to cut more because of the large fitting on passenger side I used (see pictures of fitting). Before removing lower intake you can look back there and see where you need to trim that kind of covers a little of freeze out plug opening. I trimmed drivers side very slightly, when I test fitted intake looked like that side might touch.
Reassemble;
1) At this point basically reverse order of disassembly. Install lower intake gasket, remove whatever you covered intake runner with-Tape or Towels
Once I had everything back together I followed the cooling system fill/burp procedure here;
https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...Burp-Procedure
Once I had intake off I did not like how the wiring harness in the rear kind of rest on cylinder head (can see in 1 of the pictures below), to me might be an area of rub through. Also harness seems close to EGR tube, but I guess the covering on the EGR tube works well, I did not see any melting on harness covering. I may do something where harness sits against head and also heater hose added that goes near EGR tube.
This first picture shows the Freeze out plugs you will be removing
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This second picture shows the freeze out plugs removed, the one that came out nice, and the pain in the butt one
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This third picture shows how I ran across the fitting and hoses
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This 4th picture shows where I connected to the heater hose with the "T", I moved the valve on top of it for better access
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This 5th picture shows completed hoses and fittings
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This diagram Marty sent me, he told me they do not remove the red in the diagram and do not cap COT, just leave it there, so that's what I did
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Originally Posted by Prospect62
