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Thread: supercharger autometer kit - fuel mixture gauge set up

  1. #1
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    supercharger autometer kit - fuel mixture gauge set up

    Hi Guys,
    I bought, from Chris at ADTR, the Autometer boost gauge kit. It came with a boost gauge, a fuel pressure gauge and a fuel mixture gauge.
    I also got a separate "real" oil gauge which I will put under dash in place of the on/off gauge currently there. But I digress.

    The fuel mixture gauge comes with a bung to be welded into the collection point (where the 4 from cylinder exhaust tubes connect) on the long tube header. The welded in bung would hold the O2 sensor which, I imagine, has an output that is massaged into a signal that correlates to lean/rich fuel supply via the O2 leftovers in the exhaust. Close?

    Anyway, Do I really need to add a bung? That is, could I tee into the electric outputs from the in-place "stock" O2 sensor (which is new - I replaced all 4) that is at the above mentioned header collection point.

    There is a temperature sensor that is built into the O2 sensor that came with the autometer kit...which I believe keeps the signal to the meter off until temperature is elevated & steady, so that capability, I think, would be lost if I just piggy backed on the stock O2 sensor outputs.

    If I can avoid pulling out the header and having a shop weld in a bung, I'd like to.

    Thoughts?

    Thanks
    -KK
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). OEM Mercury wheels, drop down mattress for under car comfort. ECD for start up (rev14) 4/15/21.

  2. #2
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    You donít need to pull it off. Just tell whatever shop you go to drill it and weld the bung in. Super easy, especially with a 90 degree drill.

    Besides, o2ís are different voltages than A/F. In fact they even calculate backwards.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  3. #3
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    OEM O2 sensors calculate in Lambda. Aftermarket sensors calculate in Stoich.

  4. #4
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    Well, I get you JB, and I would do it this way, but my MM is still up on jacks awaiting start up. I was hoping to get everything done prior to start up.
    I suppose I can wire everything in and get bung-weld-in done after the car is drive-able. I will use you advice and go that route. Thanks.

    I did some more research on the O2 sensor from autometer; it's a wideband, which refers to it voltage output being useful for a wider range of throttle positions (as opposed to a narrow band O2 sensor). What I do not know is if the stock O2 sensors (pre & post cat) are wide band or narrow band. what do you think?

    As far as "stoich". My gig. I'm a chemical engineer and as such spent a lot of time studying (back in the day) stoichiometry as tool for predicting the outcomes/extents of chemical reactions.
    Love all the inputs. Many thanks.
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). OEM Mercury wheels, drop down mattress for under car comfort. ECD for start up (rev14) 4/15/21.

  5. #5
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    Hey,
    Justbob,
    could you help me get started...
    for the 4 meters
    1) oil pressure (underdash)
    2) fuel mix (pod)
    3) fuel pressure (pod)
    4) boost.. (pod)

    How do I go from inside the lotek pod (which I've attached to the stock pillar already) to the rest of the car, i.e., engine area and under dash? Can't find the opening.

    Any other land mines you could warn me about?
    Many thanks
    -KK
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). OEM Mercury wheels, drop down mattress for under car comfort. ECD for start up (rev14) 4/15/21.

  6. #6
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    Right near the gas pedal is a grommet that you can poke a new hole through. It will contain a white vacuum tube for the automatic parking brake release. If you had an 04 you could actually just use the vacuum tube as a chase since that was deleted on 04ís but the line was left in and both ends plugged. But your in my boat with an 03 I see so just poke a hole somewhere on the grommet.

    As for the wideband harness I normally sneak them up thru the floor drain plug nearest the left front seat mounting bolt. Just put a hole in it as well and seal it with a dab of silicone. It will travel a few inches to the drivers kickboard panel and up.

    You can also just run one hot wire up there and tee off for all gauges, same with ground and lighting feeds. Keep it simple.

    If I recall the fuel rail pressure relief valve that I tapped into for a members fuel pressure gauge needed an adapter something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Fuel-Rail-P...0-505cd926693f


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro


    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Chandler Arizona
    Age
    61
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    90
    JB, very solid!
    I owe ya!
    Thanks.
    I'll add pics!
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). OEM Mercury wheels, drop down mattress for under car comfort. ECD for start up (rev14) 4/15/21.

  8. #8
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    Oct 2020
    Location
    Chandler Arizona
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    Well, JB, I went the other way.

    1)Drilled a hole in the firewall and ran the wide band fuel, boost, and fuel pressure wires/tubing through there. This saved me from having to make a couple of the sensor wires longer than what autometer included in their kit. It wasn't very difficult. I removed the computer to avoid collateral damage and drilled a large hole right there, close to the booster. Wiring/tubing runs down, then under dash, near the ebrake pedal, then up a bit and out.

    2) As for the wideband sensor bung in the header, I took the header out as the TIG welder wasn't comfortable being able to get all the way around the bung with the header installed. This problem is caused, in part, by the need for the sensor to be located above the center line of the header and in the collector region in order to avoid condensation ruining the sensor. The sensor hole is drilled...welder comes over in a day or two to put the bung in.

    Finally, got a new oil pan and have it in a shop right now getting a bung put in. Later this week I will use my hoist to lift the engine a wee bit (may have to disconnect intercooler pipe connections) and get the oil pan out and get the new one in...the bung will be used to bomb proof the super charger oil drain line connection.

    Whew.

    Making progress.
    Thanks for all your help.
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). OEM Mercury wheels, drop down mattress for under car comfort. ECD for start up (rev14) 4/15/21.

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