Originally Posted by
azgolfrat
Hey Guys, I'd like to use the wires from the stock oil pressure gauge to wire my new autometer "real" oil pressure gauge.
I removed the stock gauge from the under dash panel, & took it apart. See photo. The wire ends you see in the photo connect to the old gauge (I cut them).
The shown bulb can go right into the new gauge.
I will run a 16awg wire from the back of the new sender to the back of the new gauge.
BUT...the new gauge needs a power line and and ignition switch line...
I'm not sure which is which of the 3 wires shown..
1)black
2)red/yellow
3)red/white
I've been pawing through my electrical wiring diagrams from shop manual, but I've not been able to figure it out from them.
Anyone know?
oil_p_wires.jpg
You can use the existing sensor line, which is what I did. Even if you couldn't, you don't need a 16 AWG wire for a gauge. There is an insignificant amount of current flowing to most kinds of gauge, so a 20 AWG wire would have no real voltage drop over that short a distance and is a lot easier to handle, solder/crimp and stuff through a firewall access!
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Ride 1: 2003 300-A MM, black (naturally), K&N cold air, Granitelli Racing coils, Kybe shocks, Autometer "real" oil pressure and voltmeter, 14 inch front rotors and stainless lines from TCE with 6-piston Wilwood calipers and Hawk HPS pads, cryo-treated slotted rear rotors with TCE stainless lines and Hawk HPS pads, tune by Lidio, LED headlamps. Coming Soon: LED foglights, 200 Amp Alternator.
Ride 2: 2001 Kenny Brown "Panther 2" Crown Victoria, Black. K&N cold air intake to Allen Engine Development supercharger system with water-to-air intercooled Eaton MP-90 at 8 pounds. Extensive chassis bracing, Brembo 4-piston front calipers on 13 inch rotors with stainless lines. Trunk-relocated Optima Red-Top. 5000K Bi-Xenon HID's. And much, much more.