And that is your problem.Originally Posted by Mr. Man
Get the battery charged and get a maintainer for it.
Everything Marauder, LEDs & HI
And that is your problem.
Get the battery charged and get a maintainer for it.
“When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
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"The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."
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"I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
General James Mattis
T242 - Ricer ricer
11.74 battery = all kinds of goofy problems and probable no cranky... Charge it up or new battery time.
WLB
BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
______________________________ ___________
BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
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GAME OVER, YOU LOSE!
Braved the triple H's and played with Ms.D's hot rod. I swapped batteries with my car and still not a peep from the SB. Fuses made not difference either so it will be off to the stealership to sort it out. I'll have them track down the airbag issue as well.
Thanks for the ideas to try.
Senior Member
Probably the wire coming out of the starter going to the solenoid rotted off. Something else to try push the shifter up hard into park or put it in neutral & give it a try. Could be the neutral safety switch out of adjustment or bad.
Senior Member
Switch the relay like fastblack stated.......they go BAD and don't ask how I know!!
No Marauder
#2,187 out of 3,214
ALL of my FoMoCo cars with PATS give a no-crank/rapid flashing theft light when attempted to start with a bad key. None of them crank.
'04 Silver Marauder w/ sunroof - HID lighting, JL Audio / Eclipse DVD/NAV/iPod/camera, 4.10's, 2" drop, Progard Bumper Baffle, Delete tips, Billet Pedals, BC4E dead pedal, Lidio Tune, Mach1 chin spoiler, K&N CAI, TCE lines, Super40's, tinted tails, SS Inserts, Heinous Control Arms, Real oil gauge, lighted door handles. Currently installing Eaton M112.
2004 Mercury Marauder
Born March 2004, adopted October 2005. Sold January 2012, adopted AGAIN January 2016
2,187 of 3,214
997 in Silver Birch
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304 with heated seats
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There is two forms of PATS that I have read about. I can’t recall which disables what but I definitely had a no crank and I remember jumping my starter just to find out fuel or spark or both?? had also been disabled. This was way back in like ‘08ish. Car wasn’t even modded yet!
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Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.
GAME OVER, YOU LOSE!
I tried both of the keys. Fuel pump is working. Switched the relays and the 30A #101 looks fine. Car started 2 weeks ago w/ no fuss other than the airbag dash light. Ford will figure it out.
GAME OVER, YOU LOSE!
Getting ready to haul the SB to the dealer for analysis. Been reading a few other threads with cars not starting and some of the advice is to examine the crank position sensor. Would this part cause the car to not even click-click-click the starter if it was faulty? Where is this part located on the car? Is there a way to test it without fancy diagnostic equipment?
Senior Member
I have a '03 CV that had the same issue. It turned out to be a chafed wire which runs from the ignition switch to the starter relay. You can confirm that's the issue by removing the starter relay and using a jumper wire from the battery to power the starter solenoid. If that gets the car started, then you will need to trace the harness along the firewall and look for the damaged wire. I don't have my electrical manual available to give you the wire colors and pin-outs.
GAME OVER, YOU LOSE!
Forgot to update this. Turned out to be a bad starter. Put in a new one and car now starts fine. Turned out to be a corrosion issue.
Still trying to sort out the airbag issue. First code was a code 19(drivers side issue). Dealer said the RCM was bad, but seems fishy to me. Why would it suddenly go bad just sitting there? So I went to play with it yesterday and jiggled the wires under the seat as I read a TSB about the wires binding when the seat is moved. Now the airbag light blinks 12 which seems to be some sort of low power issue. Question for those of you Ford experts is will the airbag light blink for all codes or does it only blink for the lowest starting code? In other words if there are two code should it blink for both or will it only blink for the first one?
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