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Thread: Physical clunk from somewhere on driveline

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Georgia
    Age
    21
    Posts
    74

    Post Physical clunk from somewhere on driveline

    Hi all, as of recent I've been experiencing a strange clunk with my car. This only happens going highway speeds, and most noticeably around 65mph. What happens is that if I'm coasting down the road and press the gas, I can feel a fairly strong clunk as if something is physically moving. Once the clunk happens the car accelerates normally, but it definitely feels like a delay in power delivery. This only seems to happen in overdrive. If I hit the gas hard enough to force it to drop down to second (of which I rarely do - I usually just turn off O/D to kick down to third) it doesn't clunk.
    I have yet to check the driveshaft U-joints, but I do plan on doing so when I get around to doing the transmission fluid soon (of which is bright red but smells a bit burnt - it was last changed a bit over 20k miles from the PO but that was back in 2007) and differential oil. The car is currently almost stock, the only thing that would affect driving would be the Marty tune I have installed, although I can't recall if it did the clunking prior. I've tested the engine mounts too and they appear to be in fairly good shape given its age and low miles (43k). The transmission is not J-Modded (yet)

    A buddy of mine has a 2002 Grand Marquis LSE and he seems to experience the same issue as I do - perhaps it is related to the age of our vehicles since they're within a year of age. Fingers crossed it isn't related to the transmission.

    If I have time I may try and get a video for y'all to better describe my issue.

    Thanks.
    2003 300B Mercury Marauder
    Built 01/22/03
    Purchased 01/29/20
    68,xxx miles

    July 12, 2023 - 68,203 Miles - RIP original engine

    October 31, 2023 - Rebuilt engine installed

    Modifications/Stuff I have done on the car:
    Engine:
    rebuilt stock; slightly overbore. Original 68k mile heads, new OEM Ford performance timing kit, Terminator Cobra Oil Pump, Billet Steel oil pump gears, ARP head studs, main cap studs, and side bolts. The latter ARP stuff for future endeavors.
    Transmission:
    Thor 2800-3000 Stall Converter
    Suspension:
    ADTR Front + Rear Sway Bars
    Metco Billet Watts Link
    Metco Billet Rear Control Arms
    Cosmetic:
    1998-2003 Amber tail lamp conversion - Painted and smoked to near-OEM spec.
    HID Projector Headlamp Retrofit
    OEM Mercury Mountaineer Hitch Cover
    Front in-channel rain guards
    Other Stuff:
    4-pin trailer harness
    Class III Tow Hitch
    Cadillac 4-note horns
    Hayden 679 Transmission Cooler
    Obligatory Marty Tune

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Lehigh Valley, PA
    Posts
    5,956
    Most likely, you're feeling gear backlash in the rear differential.


    2016 Ford Mustang GT PP - Lund nGauge, BMR vertical links, MGW Shifter, BMR CB005

    2004 Mercury Marauder - Eaton M112, Billetflow 3.4, Accufab SBTB + Plenum, T-56 Magnum, 4.10s, Stainless Works LTs, 2.5" Exhaust, Borla Stingers, Ridetech Coilovers + Adj rear shocks, FX-R projectors, Wilwood 13" BNSL6 + FNSL4 BBKs, S55 Gauge Cluster
    440rwhp & 406rwtq Tuned by Adam @ Revolution Automotive
    2063/3214

    (Sold) 2003 Mercury Marauder - Stainless Works LT's, Stainless Works 2.5" Catback, JLT Intake, Mo's Xcal4 Tune
    5377/7838

    2000 BMW M5 - Evolve Intake, Evolve Alpha-N tune, Stoptech ST-40 BBK, UUC SSK, Dinan front STB, Dinan RSB

    1996 Ford Bronco - 4" lift, 35" BFG A/T's, Punisher Valve Body, MH1 Projectors

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
    1,604
    I'm wondering if the clunk is present in overdrive because the torque converter is probably in full lock up?
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Moreau Island
    Posts
    12,207
    Possibly a bad u-joint. Also check for a loose or broken suspension part.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Whitehall, PA
    Age
    43
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    2,935
    Rear upper control arm bushing??
    2003 Black - sold, back again, and sold
    2003 DBP/DC - #153 Whipple 3.4 (permanent garage art)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 36 (Sold)
    2003 DBP/LF - # 205 (Sold)
    2004 Black - Trilogy #43
    2003 Black - shitbox

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    4,338
    Quote Originally Posted by Comin' in Hot View Post
    Rear upper control arm bushing??
    That's what I'd look at closely.

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Next door to my neighbor
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    20,353
    Quote Originally Posted by Comin' in Hot View Post
    Rear upper control arm bushing??
    I’ve annihilated 2 complete sets and never heard any clunking. Just a seriously unstable dog walk feel..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    Georgia
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    21
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    74
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr. Man View Post
    Possibly a bad u-joint. Also check for a loose or broken suspension part.
    I wiggled on the driveshaft when I had the car on ramps; it's solid. Didn't wiggle at all.

    I've gotten the parts I need to do the tranny fluid and rear diff fluid in so I'll be doing those this weekend. I can inspect the rear end and see how everything looks.
    2003 300B Mercury Marauder
    Built 01/22/03
    Purchased 01/29/20
    68,xxx miles

    July 12, 2023 - 68,203 Miles - RIP original engine

    October 31, 2023 - Rebuilt engine installed

    Modifications/Stuff I have done on the car:
    Engine:
    rebuilt stock; slightly overbore. Original 68k mile heads, new OEM Ford performance timing kit, Terminator Cobra Oil Pump, Billet Steel oil pump gears, ARP head studs, main cap studs, and side bolts. The latter ARP stuff for future endeavors.
    Transmission:
    Thor 2800-3000 Stall Converter
    Suspension:
    ADTR Front + Rear Sway Bars
    Metco Billet Watts Link
    Metco Billet Rear Control Arms
    Cosmetic:
    1998-2003 Amber tail lamp conversion - Painted and smoked to near-OEM spec.
    HID Projector Headlamp Retrofit
    OEM Mercury Mountaineer Hitch Cover
    Front in-channel rain guards
    Other Stuff:
    4-pin trailer harness
    Class III Tow Hitch
    Cadillac 4-note horns
    Hayden 679 Transmission Cooler
    Obligatory Marty Tune

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Apr 2020
    Location
    Glendale AZ
    Age
    26
    Posts
    70
    I think that's a feature of the 4R70/75, it's happens on both my 08 vic and less so on my 03 marauder. Same exact conditions you describe, cruising at 65ish and you lightly get back on throttle

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