Lower Front End

[Mr. Man]

Companies out there will custom make you progressive springs. Check the Mustang/Camaro forums for guys who do what you do and they might be able to point you to a good spring company that can make what you need.

[RubberCtyRauder]

How much for the pair shipped to 55068? Thanks, Curt

Give me a little time to figure it.

[crouse]

Not a problem. I don't need them until next spring.

[daniel.drives]

I'm running 700 lb/in springs on ridetechs in the front of my marauder for road course racing, definitely not too stiff on the street, also helps avoid bottoming out. I was dropped 1.5 inches from stock height on 650lb/in springs, but I got tired of replacing my transmission pan drain plug if I wasn't careful on bumps, so I also raised it .75 inches. If you're also upgrading the brakes 700 or 750 would be good, with the corvette big brake kit on mine, I'm considering upping to 750 to reduce front end dive on heavy braking.

Cutting a coil has the same effect as cutting a torsion bar shorter, it makes it stiffer, which is why cars on cut OEM coils ride rough. 1 coil is usually acceptable, more than that gets *****y quick. Setup wise, when you stiffen the front springs, it loads the front outside tire faster, tending towards understeer. To compensate for that, you can upgrade the rear sway bar to help restore balance, but I'm not sure how well that would play with the OEM springs and non-adjustable shock absorbers. Rubbercty is right about the progressive rate, lower ride height means less PSI in the bag which means more compression (suspension travel) to absorb bumps.

Having done work on other people's cars with both Aldan and Naake, I can't recommend either. I've heard good things about Viking, but I personally prefer monotube to twin tube shocks. I will say even though ridetechs are expensive, you'll be able to hang with people who have spent much, much more $ in their cars. Being able to make adjustments and feel the difference is awesome.