AutoMeter oil gauge question

[azgolfrat]

Hey Guys,
I'm doing final testing before starting the new build engine for 1st time. Part of the testing was to turn the key two clicks to just before ignition; This allowed me, as much as possible short of starting the engine, to check on the wiring of the pod gauges (WB air-fuel, boost and fuel P) and the autometer oil gauge. With the key in this position the Autometer oil meter gauge pegs full scale and doesnt move back until the key is moved back. Is this normal?
I'll give Autometer a ring after the holidays, but in the meantime I thought one of you might know.

Thanks guys & a very Merry Christmas to all!
-KK

[03Merc]

No, oil pressure only measures when engine is running.


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[NickT02LS]

Are you using correct sending unit for the gauge you are using????

[azgolfrat]

Yes, took out the old gauge and replaced in place with the RealAuto; The RealAuto included a sending unit which I plumbed into the same spot the prior sending unit was (port on the oil filter adapter), connecting the same wire to it.
Hmm. Puzzled for now.

[offroadkarter]

disconnect the sender and do key on again, see if it pegs. Either the sender is faulty or something is grounding out.

[03Merc]

Yes, took out the old gauge and replaced in place with the RealAuto; The RealAuto included a sending unit which I plumbed into the same spot the prior sending unit was (port on the oil filter adapter), connecting the same wire to it.
Hmm. Puzzled for now.

Check the wiring on gauge.


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[BAD MERC]

I did the gauge, too. It was pretty simple. Swapping the internal from gauge to gauge was a bit tedious but worth the effort. My sending unit failed almost immediately.

[azgolfrat]

Ok guys,
digging in a little further - here is some more info
At the ACC setting for the key (1 click), the gauge behaves properly.
Turning the key to ON (2 clicks) the gauge pegs out. Remember, I've not started the car yet - so I dont know what the gauge would do upon starting (yet).

The images included are 1) the autometer spec for connecting the gauge and 2) the stock oil gauge pinout (from alldatadyi).


Attachment 52224

Attachment 52225

I'm using pin 1 and 2 from the stock connector to the Autometer gauge bulb
I'm using pin 3 (R/Y) from the stock connector to " I" on the Autometer gauge
I'm using pin 4 (W/R) from the stock connector to "S" on the Autometer gauge
I'm using pin1 (B) from the stock connector to the Autometer "G"

I can't see anything wrong...can you have a look?
Thanks

[azgolfrat]

Hey Guys,
I am/was convinced all the connections to the autometer oil gauge in the dash are correct (see above).
So I called autometer tech assist and described the problem to them. The gentleman there thought it was likely an issue with the sender wire from the sender being grounded out somewhere on its way back to the dash gauge. So I hunted around and found the insulation on the sender wire was badly damaged/gone as was the insulation for the wires that run down to the power steering sensor that is mounted right near the ps pump. The three wires are bundled at the very end of the wiring harness as it ends run out on the drivers side front. I cleaned all this up, reinsulated and protected the three wires (they went bad , I'm pretty sure, due to lots and lots of power steering fluid that leaked during the prior owners tenure). No more full scale deflection, so this problem , I think, is solved.

However, the dash engine coolant temp gauge is still pegged full scale, regardless of key position; on, off, key in, key out. I determined that the coolant temp sensor on the passenger side is the sensor that sends to the gauge. The drivers side sends to the power control module (PCM). (alldatadyi helped again). I can find no problem with the wiring at the dash gauge sensor, at least upon visual inspection.

I could pull the dash cluster and check for continuity back to the sensor. Lots of work.

Any ideas on how to troubleshoot this temperature gauge problem?

[azgolfrat]

The real kicker in connection with this temp dash gauge is that it is pegged with the battery disconnected!

[Agent2006]

Then maybe the needle is stuck, I assume you tapped on it....

[azgolfrat]

Yes sir... tapped on it. No help.
But..
I took a look at the circuit diagram for the temp sensor/needle, and it seemed to me that an open circuit would cause max needle deflection.
So, I looked and looked around for an open somewhere.
Fuse #6 (instrument cluster fuse) in the under-steering-wheel fuse box was blown. :p
I replaced it and connected up the battery, put the key to on, and the temp needle went to "C". And the fuel level needle also moved from ~ 1/8 tank to empty (which it is).
So...problems solved.
I am left wondering what the heck blew that fuse.
Thanks
KK