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Thread: Dragcity Marauder - Build it plan

  1. #61
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    I agree! DS inlet FTW

  2. #62
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    Last edited by RacerX; 07-25-2022 at 11:48 AM.
    11.931 @ 116.33 (MT ET Streets)
    12.073 @ 118.43 (Nitto 555)

    I love the smell of Nitromethane and rubber in the morning!
    Drag racers prayer:
    As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen

  3. #63
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    Sep 2005
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    Buffalo, NY
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    Hey, what's that extra belt tensioner at the alternator? I want one! I NEED one !!!

    Nice pinch !
    Built: 3/16/2004
    Number 9,879 of 11,052 for Total Production
    Number 2,040 of 3,213 for 2004 Model Year
    Number 663 of 980 Dark Toreador Red Produced
    Dark Charcoal Interior - CD Changer - Heated Seats - Trunk Oganizer - Moonroof - Rear Deck Spoiler
    Trilogy S/C kit #224 installed August 2010
    Detroit Tru-Trac 31 spline with 4.10 gearset
    Must - Go - Faster !

  4. #64
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    Lol, I believe Jerry (lji372) still makes the extended brackets.
    11.931 @ 116.33 (MT ET Streets)
    12.073 @ 118.43 (Nitto 555)

    I love the smell of Nitromethane and rubber in the morning!
    Drag racers prayer:
    As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen

  5. #65
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    Hey Bill, that black snout looks familiar.

  6. #66
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    Diamond Pistons - (Top ring is set 0.325" down) - 0.010 over - Comes with Rings and pins - What compression ratio to choose?
    Oliver I Beam Rods
    Manley Forged Crank

    If I go higher than the OEM 10.1:1, I will be able to increase HP. Stay at 10 lb of Trilogy boost. The block is getting minimally decked. Shoot for 10.5:1 Compression??????
    Built: 3/16/2004
    Number 9,879 of 11,052 for Total Production
    Number 2,040 of 3,213 for 2004 Model Year
    Number 663 of 980 Dark Toreador Red Produced
    Dark Charcoal Interior - CD Changer - Heated Seats - Trunk Oganizer - Moonroof - Rear Deck Spoiler
    Trilogy S/C kit #224 installed August 2010
    Detroit Tru-Trac 31 spline with 4.10 gearset
    Must - Go - Faster !

  7. #67
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    ^^^ In my experience, your going the wrong way if your plan is to go higher than the stock NA compression ratio on a supercharged engine.

    You should be going the opposite way with the compression ratio with plans to make more boost.

    (Pretty sure others on this site are not gonna like this comment): I think you should sell the Trilogy SC, intercooler, SC tensioner bracket, COT, and heat exchanger for a ridiculous amount of cash, then place that money back into your build and end up with a better setup. Replace the parts I listed above with (Jerrys HD/SC brackets, SS COT), Froozenboost type 100 heat exchanger, LFP Performance TIG welded intercooler, and a kit from James Hell to move you over to a GT500 supercharger (TVS, Whipple, Eaton)

    I took this route and never looked back as my current TVS is far superior to my old Trilogy. If you wanted to you could sell it as a complete kit. Ditch the Trilogy lower pulley for an Innovators West with the SC pulley hub built in for whatever lower ring you wish.

    I built a full Trilogy kit, all I had to start with was just a SC. My kit lives on under the hood of Mebot's MM

  8. #68
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    Agree on ditching the old. Itís great for what it was intended to be but a complete bottle neck to take it any farther.

    I havenít met one person who regretted upgrading.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  9. #69
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    Oct 2004
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    Cape Cod, MA
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    Bill Is the extra belt tensioner at the alternator really needed or is it extreme ?
    2004 marauder black purchased new. Sold 9/16 at 297,000 miles. Still ran strong didn't burn a drop of oil.
    2003 marauder black 28,000 miles all stock. Garage Queen.
    2004 marauder red daily driver.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by burt ragio View Post
    Bill Is the extra belt tensioner at the alternator really needed or is it extreme ?
    It's not an extra tensioner its an extra pulley.

    We both have Jerrys HD swap brackets, they add an additional pulley that's mounted on a bridge much like the factory did with the Terminators.

    It is necessary if you plan on making high boost with no belt slip.

    I currently make 20psi and I have -0- belt slip @ WOT


  11. #71
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    At what point with a good after market tensioner would that extra pulley be needed ?
    2004 marauder black purchased new. Sold 9/16 at 297,000 miles. Still ran strong didn't burn a drop of oil.
    2003 marauder black 28,000 miles all stock. Garage Queen.
    2004 marauder red daily driver.

  12. #72
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    All depends. What's a "good aftermarket tensioner"?

    What kind of upper? Grooved or not?

    What SC? An Eaton? Definitely not needed! Whipple? After you cross 14psi TVS? Same as a Whipple, after you cross 14psi

    Pretty sure someone will chime in and say "I make 17psi on an Eaton with no belt slip and no extra pulleys". My answer is your Eaton won't build boost as fast as a TVS or Whipple so I'm not surprised you didn't need the extra pulley.

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