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Thread: mmr cross cylinder head cooling mod

  1. #1
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    mmr cross cylinder head cooling mod

    Hey Guys,
    I bought this kit from mmr that taps into the freeze plug holes that face straight up at the left rear and right rear of cylinder heads.
    Coolant is leaking slowly from the black 1-inch ferrule on the elbow, passenger side.
    Anyone run into this problem before?
    I thought I would ask before I start taking stuff apart in order to get in there with a big wrench....the kit is pictured below.
    Thanks
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  2. #2
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    Does it say anywhere to use thread tape or sealant? I mean, even if not it's not a bad idea to double up.
    '04 Silver Marauder w/ sunroof - HID lighting, JL Audio / Eclipse DVD/NAV/iPod/camera, 4.10's, 2" drop, Progard Bumper Baffle, Delete tips, Billet Pedals, BC4E dead pedal, Lidio Tune, Mach1 chin spoiler, K&N CAI, TCE lines, Super40's, tinted tails, SS Inserts, Heinous Control Arms, Real oil gauge, lighted door handles. Currently installing Eaton M112.

    2004 Mercury Marauder
    Born March 2004, adopted October 2005. Sold January 2012, adopted AGAIN January 2016
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  3. #3
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    ^^^No need with -AN fittings

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    ^^^No need with -AN fittings
    That looks like push-lock hose?
    Could be leaking at the hose
    Ex Panther Owner

  5. #5
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    Massacre,
    the hoses attach over a barb and a hose clamp is used.
    The leak is from the female ferrule.
    I'm going to get a 1 inch crowfoot and tighten those down just a bit - hopefully this will keep me from having to take other stuff off.
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by massacre View Post
    That looks like push-lock hose?
    Could be leaking at the hose
    Rob, how ya been? Good to see your still around.

    Your correct push lock not "barb" as the OP stated. Wonder if he used a push lock tool to install the fittings?

    Quote Originally Posted by azgolfrat View Post
    Massacre,
    the hoses attach over a barb and a hose clamp is used.
    The leak is from the female ferrule.
    I'm going to get a 1 inch crowfoot and tighten those down just a bit - hopefully this will keep me from having to take other stuff off.
    What happens when you tie 2 dead ends together? You end up with a dead end.

    I don't see how MMR can advertise this as a "cooling mod". You will need an outlet for it to work as intended.

  7. #7
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    Hey guys..
    the photo I attached above is from the mmr website.
    When I saw the comment from musclemerc above, I went out and had another look.
    It turns out the two 90 degree connectors are different from one another.
    See below photos

    mmr1.jpgmmr.jpg

    the left photo is the connector I had a hose clamp on (removed for this photo)
    the right photo definitely shows a different connector - perhaps the push lock type mentioned above.
    In any case...the leak is not coming from the hose to 90 degree elbow connection.

    As far as MMR goes - I am still waiting for them to impress me. :/
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    Rob, how ya been? Good to see your still around.

    Your correct push lock not "barb" as the OP stated. Wonder if he used a push lock tool to install the fittings?



    What happens when you tie 2 dead ends together? You end up with a dead end.

    I don't see how MMR can advertise this as a "cooling mod". You will need an outlet for it to work as intended.
    Internal block heater mod?


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  9. #9
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    You can try slightly turning the big nut. If it still leaks I would take it off and check the mating tapers. If there are any scratches or corrosion try cleaning them up with a red scotch brite pad.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by azgolfrat View Post
    Hey guys..
    the photo I attached above is from the mmr website.
    When I saw the comment from musclemerc above, I went out and had another look.
    It turns out the two 90 degree connectors are different from one another.
    See below photos

    mmr1.jpgmmr.jpg

    the left photo is the connector I had a hose clamp on (removed for this photo)
    the right photo definitely shows a different connector - perhaps the push lock type mentioned above.
    In any case...the leak is not coming from the hose to 90 degree elbow connection.

    As far as MMR goes - I am still waiting for them to impress me. :/
    Just an FYI both of those are push lock fittings and you put a hose clamp on one not realizing you lost the stop ring that is present on the other fitting. The clamped hose will fail sooner or later (look at the pic its already cracked the long way).

    I would back up, drink a cold beer and realize it all has to be removed and reengineered.

    You got a little ambitious with the grinder on your lower intake. Ouch!
    Last edited by musclemerc; 01-06-2022 at 04:52 PM.

  11. #11
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    Thanks for the input. I think.
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by azgolfrat View Post
    Thanks for the input. I think.
    Your welcome. I think.

  13. #13
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    Good to see you too Travis!
    I agree, needs to be re-engineered. I have never been a fan of MMR cooling mod parts.
    If it were me i would get some real AN fittings and hose and make new lines.

    Edited to add:

    On my cars i take the hottest coolant from driver's side head, and send it directly to the radiator to be cooled.
    Travis is right, that MMR setup doesn't efficiently move the coolant in the proper way.
    Last edited by massacre; 01-07-2022 at 09:23 AM.
    Ex Panther Owner

  14. #14
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    Yes, I agree. Not optimized for sure.
    Marty thinks there is a better way as well.
    Thanks again.
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  15. #15
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    ^^^ I'm a firm believer in doing a whole lot of research before tearing into a project, then asking for help after the damage is done. This forum has a lot of talent, it doesn't hurt to ask beforehand.

    Here is a thread I wrote years ago when cooling mods weren't offered by vendors, and when they did, they offered 1/2" stuff which is way too small to be effective.

    My 5/8" Cooling Mod | TCG | The Chicago Garage

    We took it on ourselves and figured things out on our own utilizing backyard engineering. Siege takes credit for the current (and best) way to route the flow.

    I personally use a Cobra Engineering rear cooling mod with Siege's routing method.



    Disclaimer: this information is NOT a for sale ad nor is it intended to serve as such.
    Last edited by musclemerc; 01-07-2022 at 05:35 PM.

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