Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 46

Thread: Aeromotive fuel pump might be the problem

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20,353
    https://www.racetronix.biz/p/univers...iABEgIiEPD_BwE


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Chandler Arizona
    Age
    64
    Posts
    312
    JB, thanks. I see this part uses 14G wire. Aero is recommending 10G (!) for the same wiring.
    The fuse that came with the booster is a 40A; I think the Aeromotive can draw up to 30A.
    Unfortunately, I am a chem E, not an EE, so I do not know if the 14G wire on this part that you sent me link to is sufficient for 30A.
    Theory is one thing, but in practice, is it your experience that 14G is sufficient?
    Thanks
    -KK
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Chandler Arizona
    Age
    64
    Posts
    312
    JB, thanks. I see this part uses 14G wire. Aero is recommending 10G (!) for the same wiring.
    The fuse that came with the booster is a 40A; I think the Aeromotive can draw up to 30A.
    Unfortunately, I am a chem E, not an EE, so I do not know if the 14G wire on this part that you sent me link to is sufficient for 30A.
    Theory is one thing, but in practice, is it your experience that 14G is sufficient?
    Thanks
    -KK

    How many amps will 10 gauge wire handle? (askinglot.com)
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20,353
    All wiring is rated by the foot, and if in a house conduit, the number of wires also plays a part due to heat but that’s getting super deep.. So let’s simplify by experience.

    I can’t recall offhand the highest amp rate/foot off hand besides somewhere around 10amp/10’ as being close. You are well under that between the FPDM and the pump.

    If it helps you rest I used this kit on mine along with their added dual pump relay kit and all my power came from the battery on a fused 0G wire to a distribution box mounted just to the right of the spare tire on the back wall of the back seat. From there I fed a speaker amp, a sub amp, and power for the fuel pump relays.

    The only part of the original wiring bung I retained was for fuel level sender. I took the other two wires and simply wrapped them around the assembly for the time being. The new bung that I showed you powered my twin 340’s with its four wires. I no longer used the FPDM as I went to a return style fuel loop. Anyways my pumps were so efficient that Jeff at Marty’s said we could easily dial her up mid to upper 800’s at the wheels and every supporting system was up to par (except the current clutch and lack of head studs) Plenty of fuel, air, maf…

    They also claim it’s not to be used in returnless fuel systems and yet we’ve done it for decades without failure and adding boostapumps as well.

    Anyways, here was mine.







    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Chandler Arizona
    Age
    64
    Posts
    312
    Great photos JB. Really very helpful. Got it.
    Thanks!
    -KK
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    4,338
    Aeromotive is also plagued by counterfeit pumps being sold in USA via eBay and other sites. They have a high failure rate.

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20,353

    Aeromotive fuel pump might be the problem

    Quote Originally Posted by MyBlackBeasts View Post
    Aeromotive is also plagued by counterfeit pumps being sold in USA via eBay and other sites. They have a high failure rate.
    Very true. I purchase almost all parts that matter thru Summit when possible.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Chandler Arizona
    Age
    64
    Posts
    312
    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    All wiring is rated by the foot, and if in a house conduit, the number of wires also plays a part due to heat but that’s getting super deep.. So let’s simplify by experience.

    I can’t recall offhand the highest amp rate/foot off hand besides somewhere around 10amp/10’ as being close. You are well under that between the FPDM and the pump.

    If it helps you rest I used this kit on mine along with their added dual pump relay kit and all my power came from the battery on a fused 0G wire to a distribution box mounted just to the right of the spare tire on the back wall of the back seat. From there I fed a speaker amp, a sub amp, and power for the fuel pump relays.

    The only part of the original wiring bung I retained was for fuel level sender. I took the other two wires and simply wrapped them around the assembly for the time being. The new bung that I showed you powered my twin 340’s with its four wires. I no longer used the FPDM as I went to a return style fuel loop. Anyways my pumps were so efficient that Jeff at Marty’s said we could easily dial her up mid to upper 800’s at the wheels and every supporting system was up to par (except the current clutch and lack of head studs) Plenty of fuel, air, maf…

    They also claim it’s not to be used in returnless fuel systems and yet we’ve done it for decades without failure and adding boostapumps as well.

    Anyways, here was mine.







    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    JB, what would you say is the best method for making the hole in the hatch cover for the new bulkhead? Is a drill press required? Will and hand held drill do?
    thanks


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
    1,604
    These work great for thin/sheet metal. You can use a hand drill.

    https://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/d...it-step-drills
    .
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20,353
    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    These work great for thin/sheet metal. You can use a hand drill.

    https://www.irwin.com/tools/browse/d...it-step-drills
    .
    This is the best to use. Hand drill is fine but I like to drill a pilot hole and not burn up the step bit. I honestly recall it being a little difficult to drill thru. Could have been my bit I suppose. Get a Milwaukee brand step bit from Home Depot. All others are junk.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Chandler Arizona
    Age
    64
    Posts
    312
    Blazen & JB,
    Just back from 8 day golf boondoggle (4 days of driving, 4 days of golf), and getting ready to install the new fuel pump and new connector from racetronix.
    I will go by a Milwaukee step bit.
    Thanks for all your help. If you are looking for golf lessons, I'm in your debt and at your service :-)
    I'll send photos of pump/connector install
    -KK
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
    Posts
    1,604
    No problem. You're trying, so I don't mind helping!
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Chandler Arizona
    Age
    64
    Posts
    312
    Hey guys,
    Willy and Nilly are over and we were getting ready to drill into the hatch for the bulkhead / connector mentioned above. Then Will and Nilly suggested slowing down a bit. Ya know, think about it.
    Well, when Willy and Nilly say slow down, it's a good idea to do so.
    So here's the questions the three of us had:
    Attachment 52270
    The oring in the photo would wind up, after install, on the top side/outside of the tank, while the silver colored push ring clamp would be inside the tank, correct? (This is what JB's photos above look like to me)
    Also, the diameter of the plastic cylinder that goes through the tank measures just a teeny bit over 10mm diameter. So...its seems drilling a hole 10mm diameter is needed, correct?
    Thanks guys.
    -KK
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2004
    Location
    The Dirty South
    Age
    52
    Posts
    3,836
    What do you gain by installing a new wiring bulkhead?

    Your using a single pump and IIRC the stock wiring is 12AWG the racetronix bulkhead is 14AWG.

    Not an upgrade IMHO.....

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20,353
    Stock is 14g as well but I seem to recall the Racetronix 14g a bit beefier under the insulation.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. For Sale Aeromotive 340 LPH Fuel pump
    By Red Rum in forum Other Parts for Sale
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-31-2018, 05:07 PM
  2. Aeromotive Stealth Fuel Pump Durability
    By frdwrnch in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 29
    Last Post: 08-09-2015, 01:10 PM
  3. Aeromotive 340 or AEM 320 Fuel Pump
    By Blown3.8 in forum Shop Talk
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 01-21-2015, 09:54 AM
  4. For Sale Aeromotive 340lph Fuel Pump
    By Jeronimojc in forum Other Parts for Sale
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 11-23-2014, 11:30 PM
  5. For Sale Aeromotive Eliminator Fuel Pump
    By bigcowl-imp in forum Marauder-specific Parts for Sale
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 10-02-2012, 05:44 AM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •