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Thread: no crank getting desperate,,,

  1. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by massacre View Post
    You will need to learn how to diagnose wiring circuits. A wiring diagram will show you the path that the starting circuit follows from the battery to the starter. We can make suggestions but cannot test the circuit over the internet.
    yes I mentioned earlier in post that my electrical knowledge was pretty limited .. I have been trying., when I asked for help I was really hoping somebody had run across this problem and it might have been a simple fix I am really doing the best I can with my limited knowledge I am more mechanical then electrical but willing to try and learn , so Thanks for your help I do appreciate it..

  2. #62
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    Not sure what else to say? If you have 12v, keyed 12v, and keyed ground, then there is only one wire left that obviously works because you jump it and she starts. That only leaves a bad relay and you said you swapped it.

    As far as I know there is nothing else to the system?


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  3. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by justbob View Post
    Not sure what else to say? If you have 12v, keyed 12v, and keyed ground, then there is only one wire left that obviously works because you jump it and she starts. That only leaves a bad relay and you said you swapped it.

    As far as I know there is nothing else to the system?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Yes I am no auto electric guy but I can not figure it out either.. .? I was wondering if the ignition or pats system is not recognizing the key and not allowing it to crank.

  4. #64
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    no crank getting desperate,,,

    Pats is working or you wouldn’t have a keyed ground.

    Curious, what voltage readings you found at the ground? Perhaps it isn’t enough to trip the relay.

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  5. #65
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    Ok thanks I guess I will just keep searching hopefully stumble across it . Thank you again for your advice and help of course I will post if I find the answer but for now it will be a starter button lol BILL

  6. #66
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    It could be the Anti-theft-ignition Immobilizer Module 3W1Z15607AA.
    This could prevent the car from starting.


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  7. #67
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    Yeah, whatever happened with this issue? Thread just went silent...

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by BLACKMARAUDER04 View Post
    It could be the Anti-theft-ignition Immobilizer Module 3W1Z15607AA.
    This could prevent the car from starting.


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    Nope tried that last week didn't work.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverPhoenix View Post
    Yeah, whatever happened with this issue? Thread just went silent...
    Still ongoing... Bill came here last week & we tried a couple of things that didn't work. After seeing the car in person I'm thinking it is a pats problem. Light on dash is blinking too rapidly. Both of us only have basic scanners waiting for a friend who has a more comprehensive scanner to come by & see if there are any pats fault codes.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangeddie View Post
    Still ongoing... Bill came here last week & we tried a couple of things that didn't work. After seeing the car in person I'm thinking it is a pats problem. Light on dash is blinking too rapidly. Both of us only have basic scanners waiting for a friend who has a more comprehensive scanner to come by & see if there are any pats fault codes.
    Didn't realize he was in your neck o' the woods...always nice to have someone nearby that can help!

  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverPhoenix View Post
    Didn't realize he was in your neck o' the woods...always nice to have someone nearby that can help!
    Yeah he's about 10 miles away & purchased a few things from me in the past. This is a very frustrating problem...have replaced a bunch of the obvious with known good parts & still no resolution. My knowledge of the pats system is nil but I do have the Ford service manual on disc that has pointed me to some pats trouble codes just need the proper scanner to see if any are stored.

  12. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by mustangeddie View Post
    Yeah he's about 10 miles away & purchased a few things from me in the past. This is a very frustrating problem...have replaced a bunch of the obvious with known good parts & still no resolution. My knowledge of the pats system is nil but I do have the Ford service manual on disc that has pointed me to some pats trouble codes just need the proper scanner to see if any are stored.
    When you get the scanner that can read and report PATS codes, that'll tell you something, also watch the red light. A properly functioning PATS will flash every 2 secs with no key, as a visual deterrent. Turn the key to RUN, it will glow steady 3 secs then go out. PATS violations will rapidly flash in RUN for about 3 mins...then it will go out. WATCH THE RED LIGHT, it will now flash a two digit code...1 -1 or 1-6...count the flashes. You don't need a scanner for this. Look up that code online. Mine was flashing 1-1 over and over...not getting a key signal to the PCM. it is either the PCM , the key or the immobilizer, and you already checked the last two...maybe Eddie can lend you a spare PCM then jump the solenoid to crank over the car. Important point, my car would start with the wrong PCM as long as the immobilizer gave it the wrong signal, but NOT with the correct key and no signal....apparently no signal either right or wrong will not let the PCM initiate the start sequence. Good luck .
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  13. #73
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    In case you guys are still dealing with this, I discovered this YT video a little while ago:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EHEUHgfh3OA

  14. #74
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    Thanks Kyle

  15. #75
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    Thank you so much yes, I am still dealing with the no crank issues Eddie has been a lot of help lent me parts gave some good advice even tried to help me, but I think the video will be a great help,. By the way ed called me to tell me of the video so I guess that is where I will look next... Again thank you all for all your help I have been extremely busy at work and some family issues so unfortunately time is my other problem...

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