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Thread: C-Clip Removal

  1. #1
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    C-Clip Removal

    I'm replacing clutches in my differential. Anyone have any tips & tricks on how to remove the C-Clips?

    I have the axles pushed in as far as they will go.

    Is the C-Clip opening is a little smaller than the axle?

    I watched this video and the guy used a magnet.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vUJ9h_-t_e0

  2. #2
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    Did you remove the abs sensors? If you didn't you can't push the axles in far enough to get them out. You should be able to push them out easily with a screwdriver if the axle is pushed in far enough.

  3. #3
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    I had the same problem and it turned out to be the abs sensors hitting the axle and not allowing them to go in far enough to remove the c clip all I did was loosen the abs sensor and pull them out a little this allowed the axle to go in far enough to remove clips .. ,then I was able to change axle good luck should work

  4. #4
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    Thanks guys. I'll give that a try.

  5. #5
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    I got it just about finished except for the S Spring. The guy in the video uses a vice to compress the spring then a locking pliers. I tried this but couldn't get it to go in. Since it was late in the afternoon, I decided to try again tomorrow. Any other tricks to getting it to go?

    Also, doesn't it seem weird that in the clutch pack, there are two steel plates back to back? Maybe I'm not understanding how it works. I run several auto cross events each year and would like to tighten up the rear end. Are there alternatives to the order of the clutch disks and steel plates?

  6. #6
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    Put a hose clamp around the s-spring and tighten/compress it. Then put it in the diff. Once its in cut the hose clamp and remove.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by crouse View Post

    Also, doesn't it seem weird that in the clutch pack, there are two steel plates back to back? Maybe I'm not understanding how it works. I run several auto cross events each year and would like to tighten up the rear end. Are there alternatives to the order of the clutch disks and steel plates?
    You can restack the pack clutch steel clutch steel etc. eliminate one of the steels & get one extra clutch in it to tighten it up more.Also if the s spring came with the clutch kit it is too big it is for a 31 spline trak loc you'll need to reuse your old spring.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the info. The clutch pack I removed has been in there about two years, so maybe there is a good one I can re-use.

    I ordered a new S Spring that fits the Marauder.

  9. #9
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    One last question. How many bottles of friction modifier do you add?

    One time when I did a fluid change, I only added one bottle and I noticed it made a humming sound when I turned corners. So, I added a second bottle.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by crouse View Post
    One last question. How many bottles of friction modifier do you add?

    One time when I did a fluid change, I only added one bottle and I noticed it made a humming sound when I turned corners. So, I added a second bottle.
    Usually only 1. You did soak the new clutches in the friction modifier before you put it together if not you want to do that or they will chatter.

  11. #11
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    Yes, I did soak the clutches in friction modifier and I also coated the friction plates before I assembled the clutch packs.

  12. #12
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    So I tried to substitute a clutch plate for a friction plate, but I couldn't get the spider gears to fit. The order was side gear, friction plate, clutch disk, clutch disk, friction plate, clutch disk, friction plate, clutch disk, shim. When I put the spider gears in across from each other then rotated it up, it's like the top of the spider gear would hit the housing. It's like the spider gears were riding too high on the side gears and hitting the top of the housing. So I went with the standard order.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by crouse View Post
    So I tried to substitute a clutch plate for a friction plate, but I couldn't get the spider gears to fit. The order was side gear, friction plate, clutch disk, clutch disk, friction plate, clutch disk, friction plate, clutch disk, shim. When I put the spider gears in across from each other then rotated it up, it's like the top of the spider gear would hit the housing. It's like the spider gears were riding too high on the side gears and hitting the top of the housing. So I went with the standard order.
    There are several different size shims that used to come with the clutch kits you should have used smaller shims because with the extra clutch the unit is 33% tighter.

  14. #14
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    My kit M-4700-C only came with .030 shims. Oh well.

  15. #15
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    With the carbon clutch kit there is no need to replace a steel with a clutch. Reordering is for the regular clutch kit. Assemble the carbon clutch kit per the directions and you will be good to go. I'm using a 31-spline ford trac loc with the carbon clutches, assembled per the directions with no issue, with well over 500whp.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

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