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Thread: Blend Door Replacement

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Vero Beach
    Posts
    780

    Blend Door Replacement

    Where is everyone now? Hope everyone is well!
    Me, Iím here for about 3 weeks from Florida and need my blend door replaced. Any takers
    VMARAUDER -
    2004 Dark Toreador Red
    Simply called "The Red Car", Build Date 4-20-2004, #2618 of 3214, #849 of 980 in DTR, Stainless Works LT Headers with SW Full Exhaust, Ford Racing 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutches, Dyno by Modern Muscle, Mo's Speed Shop Tune, 277 rwhp 296.43 torque, Moonroof, Rear Spoiler, K&N CAI, Alpine CDA-117 CD Receiver, PAC SWI-JACK Steering Wheel Control , Rear Spoiler, Viper Alarm, From Sparta Performance...Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms, Watts Link, Stainless Steel Brake lines, Raybestos R300 S Groove Rotors with Advance Tech Ceramic Pads, Pro-Gard



    It Ain't What You Got It's The Way You Use It


    New DD 2014 F150 Lariat - EcoBoosted
    and 2013 Lincoln MKX
    1998 Grand Marquis GS 175K Sold at 199k
    2001 Lincoln Town Car Gave away at 251k
    RIP 2003 Garnd Marquis LS 280k miles
    RIP 1990 Lincoln Town Car Cartier 295k miles

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    4,318
    Hi Vince! How you been?!?

    WLB
    BB#1) 1996 ImpalaSS - 16,500 miles - 100% stock
    ______________________________ ___________

    BB#2) 2003 Marauder (300a) - 34k miles - Daily Driver
    #2912 of 7093
    Conceived 8/6/2002
    Delivered 9/19/2002
    Adopted 8/10/2011
    Trilogy 242 - Self Installed 9/9/12 (0-60 5.5 sec)
    Pioneer 6x8 Front
    Legacy 600w 6x9 Rears
    JL 6.5 SubWoofer
    K&N CAI
    Window tint 50% rear/35% front
    FBM CHMSL with Strobe mod 7/1/12
    DR Deep Aluminum Trans Pan
    Sparta FOMOCO Racing 8.8 Girdle
    Mo's Dyno Tune
    Gorilla Nuts - The System
    Ford Racing 4.10s, 31 spline Cobra carrier & axles 7/1/12
    Powder Coat Axle Housing 7/1/12
    CME HP Rear Control Arms & Watts Link 7/1/12
    ______________________________ ________________

    Rex "SC Cheesehead" Weinbender 11-14-13
    Ed "Baaad GN" Linthicum 8-6-2014

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Vero Beach
    Posts
    780
    Can’t complain, or more of I’m doing well. Just a couple little hiccups with the Marauder. Besides the blend door, I have a fast idle too. IAC is new and has been on the car for a year. I forgot the behavior but when I unplug it to idle speed slows and kicks back up when reconnected Checking for a Vaccumn leak today
    VMARAUDER -
    2004 Dark Toreador Red
    Simply called "The Red Car", Build Date 4-20-2004, #2618 of 3214, #849 of 980 in DTR, Stainless Works LT Headers with SW Full Exhaust, Ford Racing 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutches, Dyno by Modern Muscle, Mo's Speed Shop Tune, 277 rwhp 296.43 torque, Moonroof, Rear Spoiler, K&N CAI, Alpine CDA-117 CD Receiver, PAC SWI-JACK Steering Wheel Control , Rear Spoiler, Viper Alarm, From Sparta Performance...Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms, Watts Link, Stainless Steel Brake lines, Raybestos R300 S Groove Rotors with Advance Tech Ceramic Pads, Pro-Gard



    It Ain't What You Got It's The Way You Use It


    New DD 2014 F150 Lariat - EcoBoosted
    and 2013 Lincoln MKX
    1998 Grand Marquis GS 175K Sold at 199k
    2001 Lincoln Town Car Gave away at 251k
    RIP 2003 Garnd Marquis LS 280k miles
    RIP 1990 Lincoln Town Car Cartier 295k miles

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2002
    Location
    Arizona
    Posts
    2,296
    IAC valves are Marauder specific, those for GM's or CV's etc will NOT work correctly
    Member #462
    2004 DTR II
    2005 H-D E Glide Classic
    2009 Super Glide Custom

    "Come See a Fat Old Man Sometime"
    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlB7bz0TrZM

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Vero Beach
    Posts
    780
    It was a vacuum leak, hose under the tb
    VMARAUDER -
    2004 Dark Toreador Red
    Simply called "The Red Car", Build Date 4-20-2004, #2618 of 3214, #849 of 980 in DTR, Stainless Works LT Headers with SW Full Exhaust, Ford Racing 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutches, Dyno by Modern Muscle, Mo's Speed Shop Tune, 277 rwhp 296.43 torque, Moonroof, Rear Spoiler, K&N CAI, Alpine CDA-117 CD Receiver, PAC SWI-JACK Steering Wheel Control , Rear Spoiler, Viper Alarm, From Sparta Performance...Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms, Watts Link, Stainless Steel Brake lines, Raybestos R300 S Groove Rotors with Advance Tech Ceramic Pads, Pro-Gard



    It Ain't What You Got It's The Way You Use It


    New DD 2014 F150 Lariat - EcoBoosted
    and 2013 Lincoln MKX
    1998 Grand Marquis GS 175K Sold at 199k
    2001 Lincoln Town Car Gave away at 251k
    RIP 2003 Garnd Marquis LS 280k miles
    RIP 1990 Lincoln Town Car Cartier 295k miles

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    South Florida
    Posts
    4,297

    Blend door actuator replacement write

    Hey Vince,
    This may help with the blend door issue:
    Here's my experience. Hopefully someone finds it useful!

    This job was not nearly as bad as I had made it in my mind after reading many threads, and seeing pictures of Marauders torn apart. It took me a couple hours, but most of that time was spent a) getting the screws out of the actuator, mainly the back screw, and b) getting the passenger side vent ducting back in.

    Here's a quick rundown of the steps I took:

    -Moved passenger seat all the way back (attempt this before disconnecting battery, hehe)

    -Disconnected battery

    -Removed glove box. Two screws

    -Removed dashboard trim. Comes up from the side of the dash in between where the door and dash meet. Just unsnaps all the way across. I unplugged the clock and set it aside. You can also unplug the rear defrost control if you want to get it competely out of the way.

    -Remove the passenger side vent which now has its one screw exposed.

    -Remove airbag. Four screws total: Two under the dash, two on the front of the dash. It comes out easily after you pop out the white trim christmas trees that are holding the wiring harness in place. Unplug and set aside.

    -Remove the two screws from the back side of the a/c ducting. You may have to lay in a really awkward position to get to the screws (this is where moving the seat back comes in handy). Now pull that ducting away from the vent opening.

    -Take note of the white harness christmas tree plugged into the vent. There are several of these throughout this procedure. Just pull them out. I found it easier to use a door trim tool to remove the two that were holding the airbag harness in place. Yank hard on the ducting closest to the center of the dash. You will have to really jank on it to make it come away. Remove this piece and set aside.

    -I also unplugged the ECU harness because they were getting in my way later in this procedure, so you can do this now. Just move them aside so you have more room to work

    -Pull the weatherstripping up from the passenger side door sill, and just peel it up enough to remove the kick panel, and windshield pillar trim. All Also pop the door sill piece out.

    -Pop up the piece of dashboard trim that runs along the front of the dash just under the windshield. It's held in with clips and can be popped out with your fingers. Start from the passenger side edge of it. There is one harness connected to this piece that you will have to unplug in order to completely remove the trim piece from the car.

    -Remove the three screws that the previous step has revealed: One center, one left, one right. These help secure the dashboard to the body.

    -Remove the larger bolt that removing the kick panel has removed. It is on a stud with a tab that's connected to the dashboard, part of what holds the dashboard in.

    -I placed the shifter down in first (so chalk your wheels when you do this)

    -Pull gauge cluster away from dash, no need to disconnect

    -Pull on the dash from the bottom, just enough to move it back away from the windshield a an inch or two. The way I did it was to pull it out enough that the tab that was bolted onto the stud is now sitting on top of said stud, so in effect the stud is holding the dash out a bit. Just enough room to allow you to access the rearmost actuator screw.


    Ok.. you're ready to remove the actuator.

    -Remove the harness that is plugged into it. Do not bother using a ratchet for the screws. It will only fit on the frontmost screw. Use a ratcheting wrench that is reversable, and has an angled head on it.

    -I should note that my actuator was only held in with three screws. Maybe I'm lucky, but I've read on other forums that theirs were also held in with only three screws.

    -The screw closest to the windshield is the biggest pain. I had to cut away some of the insulation to make it easier to access. I used a razor blade to do this. YMMV, but this allowed me access. It took forever to get this one out. The ratchet was able to be moved enough to just click once, so it took a lot of turns.

    -The other screw that is closest to the dash was the other one that mine had installed. The one missing a screw was the one deepest and hardest to reach, so I am really glad it wasnt included.

    -Your screws are out, now remove the actuator. Check your blend door movement with the small rod to ensure it is moving freely, and that you are dealing with an actuator problem and not a heater box/blend door itself problem.

    -I replaced my actuator with only two screws: The one that is the most exposed, and the one closest to the rear of the dash (directly behind the radio) - I dont think it would have been worth it to get that third screw installed closest to the windshield, and honestly it takes so little effort to turn the blend door that only having two screws provides sufficient leverage for the unit to operate. YMMV. If you are not comfortable reinstalling only two screws, then attempt reinstall your third screw.

    -You can probably power on the car right now to test everything, but I put mine back together before testing.

    The re-assembly is just a reverse of the above. The only tip I have to offer is that when you are reconnecting the ducting, you may have to use your foot to push the ducting back onto the center airbox piece that it connects to. This step is where I did the most cussing. It will take some finaggling to make it go, but I got it and there are no problems.

    Sorry for the lack of pics. I wanted to get in and out and get this done, so I didn't take any, except for one during the middle of the procedure.

    Hope this helps someone! Don't let this job intimidate you. It's really not THAT bad. Again, a ratcheting wrench is a must unless you just enjoy punching yourself in the balls.

    [IMG]file:///C:/Users/ed392/AppData/Local/Temp/msohtmlclip1/01/clip_image001.gif[/IMG]
    Attached Files Attached Files
    TCE
    Your one stop...for Wilwood brakes.



    My Garage

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Vero Beach
    Posts
    780
    Thanks, I got it done with no issues at all
    VMARAUDER -
    2004 Dark Toreador Red
    Simply called "The Red Car", Build Date 4-20-2004, #2618 of 3214, #849 of 980 in DTR, Stainless Works LT Headers with SW Full Exhaust, Ford Racing 4.10 Gears, Carbon Clutches, Dyno by Modern Muscle, Mo's Speed Shop Tune, 277 rwhp 296.43 torque, Moonroof, Rear Spoiler, K&N CAI, Alpine CDA-117 CD Receiver, PAC SWI-JACK Steering Wheel Control , Rear Spoiler, Viper Alarm, From Sparta Performance...Rear Upper and Lower Control Arms, Watts Link, Stainless Steel Brake lines, Raybestos R300 S Groove Rotors with Advance Tech Ceramic Pads, Pro-Gard



    It Ain't What You Got It's The Way You Use It


    New DD 2014 F150 Lariat - EcoBoosted
    and 2013 Lincoln MKX
    1998 Grand Marquis GS 175K Sold at 199k
    2001 Lincoln Town Car Gave away at 251k
    RIP 2003 Garnd Marquis LS 280k miles
    RIP 1990 Lincoln Town Car Cartier 295k miles

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