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Thread: T Clamps used for vortech plumbing connections

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
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    Chandler Arizona
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    T Clamps used for vortech plumbing connections

    Guys,
    The plumbing I use for routing air into the Vortech, the intercooler and on to the intake manifold uses silicone couplers and tclamps.
    I tightened these tclamps down pretty good after one connection came loose under big boost.
    I've had to dis-assemble the plumbing twice now, and I keep busting T-clamps. Looks like the tightening nut has a nylon ring on the top inside.
    tclamp1.jpg
    As you can see the threads are galled, and the bolt sheared.
    I dont know if the galling is happening upon initial tightening or upon loosening.
    Any ideas on how to avoid this problem?
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
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    1,604
    This is an issue you may always have using t-bolt clamps and silicone couplers. The only permanent solution is to remove any silicone couplers, replace them with hard pipe and weld as much as you can together. Then weld in v-band clamps at any remaining joints. That being said, I still use silicone couplers and t-bolt clamps. I have 14psi boost and haven't blown any couplers off yet. Find quality USA made t-bolt clamps (and possibly silicone couplers) and you'll be fine. Also try putting a little oil on the threads before tightening to prevent the galling.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Northeast OH
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    7,999
    I use constant torque hose clamps on 17psi Trilogy. Better than t bolt style
    2004 SB Ported Trilogy 48
    Has supporting mods and stuff
    Thanks to Marty O for his help in updating this car.

    R.I.P.
    Rex "SC Cheesehead"

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    Next door to my neighbor
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    Mine was set up like Blazen said. Fully welded (including the engine mounts), 4 V band clamps for easy assembly, and even a throttle body brace for the only rubber coupling. Blowing pipes was an impossibility at that point. I’ve seen enough friends embarrassed.

    Depending on your routing figure 3-4 V bands. Mine were welded to the blower, both ends of the intercooler, and one midway between the intercooler and the throttle body. It’s a little work but welding is cheap and it’s very rewarding having like three pipes that only fit one way and they stay put.

    I will say though, regarding V bands and T bolts, you definitely get what you pay for!

    Then you’ll have to super glue all the vacuum lines next.. Been there. Hell I even blew the line off the HVAC! That has to be some kind of record?







    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Waukesha, WI
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    And another trick I learned is to use hair spray to assemble the rubber couplers. It makes them easier to slide onto the pipe and mildly helps keep the joints stuck together once dry.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2020
    Location
    Chandler Arizona
    Age
    64
    Posts
    310
    Great input guys. Thank you.
    I have a blueprint for going forward. :-)
    -KK
    '03 Silver Birch. Stock rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. 8 rib serp belt upgrade i/p.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Next door to my neighbor
    Age
    50
    Posts
    20,353
    I know it sucks to revisit stuff but it’s worth it.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    SOLD 12/31/2021

    Cobra short block / ProCharger F1-A / Cog drive upgrade / Manley valves / Brian Tooley Racing valve springs / 80# inj. / -8 fuel line / -6 return / Aeromotive 340 pumps and regulator / 2012 GT500 TR6060 six speed / twin disc clutch / Driveshaft Shop GT500 upgraded CV joint shaft / BA5000 blow thru MAF/ 4.10's / Ford Racing 31 spline set up and Girdle / Metco D.S. safety loop / Stainless Works headers, cats, and everything else out back / ClassGlass hood / Bob's hood strut mod / Hurst line lock / Metco control arms / Addco front and rear sway bars / Monroe severe duty shocks all around / Race concepts rotors / Badgeless grille / 35% tint / FBM's interior LED kit and ambient lighting kit / Pioneer FB700 deck / kenwood speaker 4 Ch. / Rockford Fosgate 10" sub and amp / Kicker 6 X 8's all around / back up cam / bluetooth / Pioneer Xm / 704 RWHP 603 RWTQ tuned by Mo's Speedshop.

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