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Thread: Alternator Clutch Pulley

  1. #1
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    Alternator Clutch Pulley

    Anyone have any part numbers for the alternator clutch pulley?

    These things have a few different names:
    One-way clutch (OWC)
    Overrunning Alternator Pulley (OAP)

    There's also the newer style of clutched pulley called:
    Alternator Decoupling Pulley (ADP)
    Overrunning Alternator Decoupler (OAD), which are like an OAP but with additional harmonics reduction.


    So far I've found:

    OAP
    Dorman: 300-869
    (Mitsubishi: A4TJ0181, A4TJ0181ZC)
    (Ford: 6W7T-10300-AB)
    INA: (F-237401), F-233591

    OAD
    Gates: 37004P
    Goodyear/Continental: 49935
    Litens/Tendeco/Atech: 920004
    Lester: 11026




    () - means I'm not sure

    Linked some cross-references, which contains/confirms many of the numbers above.
    Last edited by GetMeMyStogie; 09-09-2022 at 05:27 PM.

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  3. #3
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    Alternator Clutch Pulley

    Replaced my old, seized OAP today, with an OAD.

    The original, an INA f233591, fit like this:






    It's about 1mm away from the case.

    The replacement, a Litens 920004 OAD (I ordered the Gates 37004P, and the Litens was in the box) fits like this:





    It sits about 3mm-4mm from the case.

    Started it up, seems to run fine.

    Getting it snugged on with a cordless impact was tricky because letting go of the trigger engaged the electric brake, causing the pulley to spin off a few times due to the inertia of the stator. I ended up using the Auto mode of my Rigid impact, which slows automatically once rotations speed up. If you have an air or plug-in electric impact, that'd work better because then the stator could keep spinning.

    Other differences:
    - The new pulley is a smaller diameter than the old one.
    - The new pulley is installed using a 17mm hex bit (aka H17).
    Last edited by GetMeMyStogie; 09-14-2022 at 12:59 AM.

  4. #4
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    That is not the correct pulley. Yes it fits, but there are over 200 variations of overrunning decoupler pulleys.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    That is not the correct pulley. Yes it fits, but there are over 200 variations of overrunning decoupler pulleys.
    Considering the "correct" part is an OAP, is there any OAD that can be considered correct? You wouldn't happen to have a part number, would you?

  6. #6
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    Poor car!

    You got bigger problems than an alt clutch.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by musclemerc View Post
    Poor car!

    You got bigger problems than an alt clutch.
    Meh, that's the cost of driving cars that are meant to be driven. She's still great, though.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by GetMeMyStogie View Post
    Considering the "correct" part is an OAP, is there any OAD that can be considered correct? You wouldn't happen to have a part number, would you?
    The Dorman you listed works. I just replaced mine with that one. Your chart lists the Ford P/N in the OAP category and you replaced it with a pulley from the OAD category. Why did you do the research and make that list, and then chose a pulley from the wrong category? Just saying.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  9. #9
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    Alternator Clutch Pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    The Dorman you listed works. I just replaced mine with that one. Your chart lists the Ford P/N in the OAP category and you replaced it with a pulley from the OAD category. Why did you do the research and make that list, and then chose a pulley from the wrong category? Just saying.
    Because the OAD was available and about 30% cheaper, and since it's newer tech I'm hoping it lasts longer. Every OAP I've ever used seized up in a year or so.

  10. #10
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    Belt manufacturers tolerance for pulley alignment is 1/2 of 1 rib, so approximately 1.75mm. Your new pulley is way out of alignment tolerance. I would be concerned with throwing a belt.
    You "feel" the difference because you want to "feel" the difference. Since you just spent money on the upgrade you "have" to feel the difference

    I'm looking to eliminate the double pump process I have to follow right now to get the pedal hard

    2004 300A Procharger #0010 D1X
    2003 300A Procharger #0017 D1SC (SOLD. Last I heard, it was in Washington State)

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    Belt manufacturers tolerance for pulley alignment is 1/2 of 1 rib, so approximately 1.75mm. Your new pulley is way out of alignment tolerance. I would be concerned with throwing a belt.
    Thanks! This is actually useful information.

    Acording to this, it's 1/2 a rib for every 6 inches of pulley separation. Time to get out a ruler...

  12. #12
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    BTW the belt itself shows some cracking on the ribs. Is that normal/acceptable or an indicator that the belt is approaching the end of it life?
    03 MM, DBP, Charcoal, 6disk, HS, organizer, spoiler Mods: Z&M arms, Beamtech Led headlight bulbs, LED turns, ditch, tails, reverse & interior(blue), oil deflector, U-Hall Tranny pan. running stock size Cooper Zeon RS3-G1

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  13. #13
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    Alternator Clutch Pulley

    Quote Originally Posted by GetMeMyStogie View Post
    Thanks! This is actually useful information.

    Acording to this, it's 1/2 a rib for every 6 inches of pulley separation. Time to get out a ruler...
    So I measure about 12 inches on either side between ribbed pulleys. 12 inches between the alternator and power steering pump pulleys. 12 inches from ribbed idler pulley to the alternator, around the smooth idler.

    That gives me room for 1 full rib on the belt.

    I measured one rib to be about 4 mm wide. And I measured the new pulley to be 5.5 mm from the alternator case. I didn't measure the distance of the old pulley from the case, but 1mm looks close. That makes for an offset of ~4.5 mm. Subtract the width of 1 rib for a difference of ~0.5 mm.

    I wouldn't call that way out of tolerance. I'd call it close enough, especially since the "1/2 rib per 6 inches of pulley separation" isn't really a spec, but a rule-of-thumb.

    After some spirited driving today, I can tell you there is no belt noise whatsoever. Indeed, there's no pulley noise at all. Where a new OAP would make a whining turbo-like noise when upshifting under WOT, this one is completely silent. While a touch disappointing, I'll keep running it. I have zero worry of the belt jumping.

    Btw, this OAD is the part number for 2v 4.6L crown vics and grand marquis.
    Last edited by GetMeMyStogie; 09-14-2022 at 12:58 AM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by blazen71 View Post
    The Dorman you listed works. I just replaced mine with that one. Your chart lists the Ford P/N in the OAP category and you replaced it with a pulley from the OAD category. Why did you do the research and make that list, and then chose a pulley from the wrong category? Just saying.
    The Dorman lists 1998-2005 CV, MGM and MM under applications.

    The Litens lists 2003-up CV and MGM under applications.

    The overlap tells me the Litens listing is incomplete. I'm not surprised the MM wasn't listed. The fact Dorman lists the same part for these years is good enough for me.

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