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Thread: Cursed BMSC for the third time!

  1. #1
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    Cursed BMSC for the third time!

    Hey guys, long time no see. I suck at coming on here unless I selfishly need expertise!

    Bought my 2003 pre-decontented MM "new" in 2004 with 300 miles on it (sitting on the lot for 21 months marked as a Grand Marquis! So I beat them way down on the price.) Changed cursed POS BMSC in 2008 or so. Changed it again in 2015. Just failed again. I'm so sick of Ford electronic garbage. Have a Blend door actuator module to install for the last 4 years as well, but it's sitting until I get the courage to tear out my dash and airbag. I'll also need to do something with the o-rings as I recall from here.

    The 2nd head unit failed years ago, along with 6 CD changer in trunk, still have to get that out.

    ANYWAY, Jim (fastblackmerc) fixed my LCM in 2020, and I'm wondering if he can bulletproof my BMSC once and for all, so just emailed him through the site here, but not sure if he's still around. Please let me know your experiences with the BMSC. Unfortunately have the old original DR rear engine cooling mod so it's a bear getting back there. The plastic T's on the original were replaced with metal ones two years ago, but I'll have to dump the coolant and pull the heater hoses off the firewall and lower bypass hose to get access to the unit.

    Thanks for any info. I don't mind doing this once, but multiple times is ridiculous.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  2. #2
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    Jim is still around...

  3. #3
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    just unplug the old one, zip tie the new one to a ac hose and let it eat. Yes its a pain with the extra hoses there.
    The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies

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  4. #4
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    Cursed BMSC for the third time!

    Quote Originally Posted by Turbov6Bryan View Post
    just unplug the old one, zip tie the new one to a ac hose and let it eat. Yes its a pain with the extra hoses there.
    (Let it eat?)

    That's what I did, got the power connection off to stop the blower. That's actually a great idea to avoid the hassle and zip tie the new one out of the way, assuming the power connection will reach it, thanks. So obvious it didn't occur to me...!

    Just checked and never realized the connector is at least 18" long and doubles back. I'm thinking mount it to a piece of foam right on the plastic fender well, next to the other connectors.

    By the way, hereís the selection from RockAuto; anyone have a brand recommendation for a quality replacement? Or all they are pretty much the same? I don't need a pigtail connector replacement that I can see.

    https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/fo...+resistor,6557
    Last edited by Svashtar; 02-01-2024 at 04:50 AM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Svashtar View Post
    Hey guys, long time no see. I suck at coming on here unless I selfishly need expertise!

    Bought my 2003 pre-decontented MM "new" in 2004 with 300 miles on it (sitting on the lot for 21 months marked as a Grand Marquis! So I beat them way down on the price.) Changed cursed POS BMSC in 2008 or so. Changed it again in 2015. Just failed again. I'm so sick of Ford electronic garbage. Have a Blend door actuator module to install for the last 4 years as well, but it's sitting until I get the courage to tear out my dash and airbag. I'll also need to do something with the o-rings as I recall from here.

    The 2nd head unit failed years ago, along with 6 CD changer in trunk, still have to get that out.

    ANYWAY, Jim (fastblackmerc) fixed my LCM in 2020, and I'm wondering if he can bulletproof my BMSC once and for all, so just emailed him through the site here, but not sure if he's still around. Please let me know your experiences with the BMSC. Unfortunately have the old original DR rear engine cooling mod so it's a bear getting back there. The plastic T's on the original were replaced with metal ones two years ago, but I'll have to dump the coolant and pull the heater hoses off the firewall and lower bypass hose to get access to the unit.

    Thanks for any info. I don't mind doing this once, but multiple times is ridiculous.
    I can fix the BCM , as long as it is a Motorcraft unit, & your EATC (o-rings & upgrade the button & fan wheel lights with LEDs).

    PM me.
    ďWhen you canít make them see the light, make them feel the heat.Ē
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    ďBe polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.Ē
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
    General James Mattis




  6. #6
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    I will, thanks Jim!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  7. #7
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    Jim for the WIN! Jim is a baddass!


    2003 300A Black, #4918 of 7838, 17,400 Miles
    Tune, KYB's, JLT, FlowMaster 42441, Res Delete, New BFG's, 8 coats of zymoil Titanium

    2003 300B Silver Birch, #21 of 419, 29,800 miles
    Tune, JLT, FlowMaster 42441 Res Delete, New Nitto 235/255 Bigcarsforever dead peddle & custom SRP peddles, 5 coats Zymoil Titanium, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYBs, 1/2 inch coil cut, Sparta Watts link and Control Arms, Carfixer alignment.

    2003 CV Sport Matador Red, 19,280 Miles, DD, Curless Full Service Royal flush, Marto Tune, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires, NEW OEM Sport Springs -1 coil & Monroe Severe Duty (front) shocks, Addco front and rear sway bars, KYB rear Shocks, Carfixer Alignment.

    2004 CV HPP Silver Birch, 93,000 miles. Son's DD, 18 Chrome Wheels w 235/265 front/back Nitto tires (thank you Lowndex!)

  8. #8
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    The new box will get hot, so i just dangle it from that large ac hose. If it fails from use, it just needs unplugged and warrantied. Such a pain to get it out with all the hoses, letting it eat / dangle from the ac hose has worked on one of my supercharged cars for 7 years. Just one replacement and it was under a minute to swap.
    The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies

    Current marauders
    04 DTR totaled JUST NOW starting to part out 7-21-2021 https://youtu.be/REUxjP1BVpg

    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop Whipple Supercharger
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop V2 Supercharger
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Converted
    03 DBP Light Flint #122
    03 DBP Dark Charcoal #232
    03 Silver Birch 300b Light Flint Going to fix er up
    03 Black 300a
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal moonroof in the works

    04 Heaton Swapped DTR
    Joe's Wrecked DTR rebuild thread

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbov6Bryan View Post
    The new box will get hot, so i just dangle it from that large ac hose. If it fails from use, it just needs unplugged and warrantied. Such a pain to get it out with all the hoses, letting it eat / dangle from the ac hose has worked on one of my supercharged cars for 7 years. Just one replacement and it was under a minute to swap.
    Thanks Bryan. I ordered one from the Rockauto list I linked that cost about $5 more, but described it had more robust circuitry than the OEM. (?) Three-year warranty. Another for a little more had a five year, but except for the first OEM unit Iíve had, the last two failed well after 5 years so I went with the sales pitch. I was intending to build a little plastic box for it out of an old DAT tape case with open sides for air to the heat sink, and secure it and the power cord to the fender well to keep things neat, but may just do it your way. I donít know why I didnít think of this for the first and second replacements!.

    Between work and the rain/wind storms out here I havenít gotten to the car for other tasks for days, so hope to get it done tomorrow when the part comes.

    Now for the EATC all I have to do is take the plunge on the o-rings that Jim mentioned and replacing the blend door actuator that I bought years ago. Hopefully that stops the occasional thumping and fixes the air routing, and itís not the actual blend box. Just getting the nerve to tear out the dash, as I picture me snapping off something crucial.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  10. #10
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    i just leave it open, car doesnt see rain, but i think if you put this in a box, it will retain heat and give it a slow death. I too thought about putting in a sealed box, but got to thinking that the air from the blower unit actually cools this since its mounted inside the heater box. I havent had too much issues with it, dealing with the coolant hoses a few times made me lazy and this is just a simple replacement now.
    The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies

    Current marauders
    04 DTR totaled JUST NOW starting to part out 7-21-2021 https://youtu.be/REUxjP1BVpg

    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop Whipple Supercharger
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Hardtop V2 Supercharger
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal Converted
    03 DBP Light Flint #122
    03 DBP Dark Charcoal #232
    03 Silver Birch 300b Light Flint Going to fix er up
    03 Black 300a
    04 Silver Birch Dark Charcoal moonroof in the works

    04 Heaton Swapped DTR
    Joe's Wrecked DTR rebuild thread

  11. #11
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    Cursed BMSC for the third time!

    Quote Originally Posted by Turbov6Bryan View Post
    i just leave it open, car doesnt see rain, but i think if you put this in a box, it will retain heat and give it a slow death. I too thought about putting in a sealed box, but got to thinking that the air from the blower unit actually cools this since its mounted inside the heater box. I havent had too much issues with it, dealing with the coolant hoses a few times made me lazy and this is just a simple replacement now.
    Thanks, and after designing a plastic box (which would melt in seconds with the heat coming off this thing!) and a hold down, I figured the same thing out and mounted it uncovered off the main AC line as you suggested. Hereís a pic:



    It lasted two hours before it failed, and blower went full blast as before. Thing is I had been driving it on the freeway all that time, and in town, and it had been working perfectly. When I got home I left the car idling in park to check the trans fluid, and after 5 minutes it started up full blast on the fan and wouldnít shut off, same exact failure as before, making me wonder if I had a universal connection problem. I made the mistake of touching the heatsink fins right then and it was hotter than hell, just blistering.

    So I took it back onto the freeway, and after just a couple of miles it went right back to normal. I pulled off and stopped and idled, failed again. Turned the car off and waited 5 minutes, back to normal no issues, working perfectly with all EATC settings, Off, Vent, AC, etc. At first MAX AC didnít kick in the fan, then it did.

    So despite their claim that they overbuilt the circuit traces over OEM, it appears to need the ventilation inside the firewall from the fan. OR, perhaps the supposed better circuit traces generate more heat? No idea.

    So, I can either 1) Assume I got a dud and ask for it to be warranteed, or 2) Buy another brand, or 3) Just live with it knowing it will fail temporarily if I sit idling too long. Trouble is, Iím picturing a hot day in downtown traffic with no airflow in the engine compartment.

    Anyway, please let me know if you mount yours in a different spot? Or let it hang more or something? And Iíll try it. I can say comparing the old and new units I was really impressed with this one, but I canít have it failing periodically because itís overheating. Thanks for your input!

    (You know, I have some aluminum computer heatsinks designed to fit over old Intel and AMD CPUís that generated so much heat when you over-clocked them, and Iím actually wondering if I could literally bond one of those to the back side of the circuit board? Iím no expert, but think the solder joints on back of the BMSC circuit board would ignore the adhesive Iíd have to use. (?) . Just brainstorming, and thereís a reason they put the heatsink on the side they did. On a computer Iíd wire in a fan on top of the heatsink, but on this one even off the backside I think it would melt!)

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Svashtar; 02-10-2024 at 09:11 PM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  12. #12
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    Going to stretch that power cable as far as it goes and mount it towards the bottom front of the engine. Should get more air down there, just above the lower radiator hose. Weíll see..


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

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