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Thread: Pre-fill Oil Filter?

  1. #1
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    Pre-fill Oil Filter?

    So, for a few years in the '70's and '80's in my teens and early 20's I worked in a garage with ASE Certified mechanics who handled tune ups and more advanced work, and did misc "joe jobs": O/F changes, tires, batteries, fan belts, hoses, coolant flushes, alignments, wheel bearing repacks, etc. In at least 10,000 oil changes, mostly with bottom mounted oil filters where it would have been easy to do, we never once "pre-filled" the filter, and until the other day I had never even heard it mentioned as something to do. I just changed my oil for the 22nd time the other day, and was screwing in the new filter and my neighbor told me I was "ruining my engine" by not pre-filling the filter. I asked him how I was supposed to fill it up and get it onto the engine without spilling new 5-20 full synthetic all over the side of the block, and he said some was going to spill but it was necessary to have some in the filter so the OP didn't fall too low and the engine had lube.

    I do the routine when I take off the O/F, tilting it back to minimize spillage, then move it to the front of the car, then get under to pull it down onto the drain pan. Reverse operation with the new. I suppose I could get some oil into the new filter first, but have never bothered. I have 6 quarts of always full synthetic and don't want to waste any.

    Anyone else add oil to the filter before installing? I know that our DOHC engines hold a lot of oil in the top of the engines, and count on any residue up there to work in the couple of second it takes for the O/F to fill and the oil pressure to max out.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  2. #2
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    I just saw a test where they showed that it takes multiple seconds after start up for the newly installed oil filter to fill with oil, while the engine sees NO oil pressure.
    In the long run it's not a great scenario for main bearings.
    I've always completely prefilled my oil filters on any engine with a vertically positioned oil filter.
    On 'angled' oil filters, I normally partially fill them to avoid dumping fresh oil all over the place while spinning the filter on.

    LINKY >> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=939WTeorBnQ



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  3. #3
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    Pre-fill Oil Filter?

    Thanks, I watched that same video. I canít imagine it takes too long to cycle the oil and build up pressure, but I understand the point. Iíll try and add a little next time I guess, as long as I can get it screwed back onto the block without spilling it, which I kind of doubt.

    I know some mfrs recommend not pre-filling for a specific reason, but that doesnít apply to our cars as far as I know. I had somehow never heard of the practice.

    By the way, I donít want to start a new thread, especially a dreaded oil one, but Iíve always only used regular full synthetic 5w-20. Iím wondering now that the car is at 125,000 if I should switch to the ďhigh mileageĒ formula? Supposed to be anything over 75k, but Iíve never bothered, and might be missing a bet.

    (Just checked one source and it says that the oil formulas from std to high mileage are identical, except high mileage adds a ďseal conditionerĒ that can help protect seals from degrading, causing oil loss. Makes sense, and guess I should have switched 40-50K ago.)

    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Last edited by Svashtar; 02-03-2024 at 05:18 PM.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  4. #4
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    I've always pre-filled my oil filters and almost all of my vehicles except for my Marauder had bottom mounted oil filters.

    For my Marauder, I'll fill it full then let it sit as the oil soaks into the filter element. I usually add a little more oil then install it. Little to no oil spills as I install it.

  5. #5
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    Also, I think the High Mileage oils have additives that make seals swell up a little to help seal leaks.

  6. #6
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    I always pre-fill
    Ex Panther Owner

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by crouse View Post
    I've always pre-filled my oil filters and almost all of my vehicles except for my Marauder had bottom mounted oil filters.

    For my Marauder, I'll fill it full then let it sit as the oil soaks into the filter element. I usually add a little more oil then install it. Little to no oil spills as I install it.
    Well, then I feel like an idiot for not knowing about it, especially after doing LOFís in a shop for years. Iíll try it next time, letting it soak in like you say.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by massacre View Post
    I always pre-fill
    Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  9. #9
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    I never do it. 370k miles says it's probably not necessary.
    I do use Mobil1 full synthetic.
    Thanks to Darrin @ BC Automotive:
    $1800 and it was worse than when he started!

    Brian (FordNut) FPG # 1458 of 7838
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    then 476/410 D1SC ProCharged on stock block
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    then 365/369 N/A on 5.3 wet sleeved Teksid alum big bore stroker
    Now 751/617 3.4L Whipple on 5.3 Boss5.0 iron big bore stroker

    03 MM 300B Silver (Mostly stock, originally wife's car, 370k mi) FPG # 7053 of 7838 or 49 of 417 SB
    03 MM 300B Silver, Stock, wife's next one, 136k mi FPG # 7134 of 7838 or 89 of 417 SB
    04 MM Silver, Stock, on standby 85k mi, FPG # 1212 of 3214 or 432 of 997 SB
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by FordNut View Post
    I never do it. 370k miles says it's probably not necessary.
    I do use Mobil1 full synthetic.
    Me too, never had anything but full synthetic and Motorcraft or K&N filters in it for 22 oil changes now. (I saw a great review on it though and think Iíll try a Mobil 1 extended filter next time, pretty impressive.) And Iím going to switch to the high mileage oil as well then, which will be at 130K miles. Has the exact same formula as the regular stuff, with some seal conditioner added.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  11. #11
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    No need to prefill. Hold the go pedal to the floor while cranking the engine for about 15-20 seconds. With the pedal to the floor car won't start.
    ďWhen you canít make them see the light, make them feel the heat.Ē
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    ďBe polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.Ē
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    No need to prefill. Hold the go pedal to the floor while cranking the engine for about 15-20 seconds. With the pedal to the floor car won't start.
    Great idea! I didnít know that about the pedal preventing the car from starting. Thanks for the tip.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

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