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Thread: NO START

  1. #1
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    NO START

    Drove it to work now won't start, doesn't even try to turn over. Has ignition power, but NO power to OBD2 port and fuel pump NOT coming on. Mini Fuses under hood all good. (Not blown). What could it be?


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  2. #2
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    Sounds like a battery problem is the 1st thing to rule out. Have you tried jumping with another vehicle that has a KGB? ( known good battery)


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    '03 Silver Birch. Rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. Upgraded to 8 rib belt to reduce slip, July-Nov '23. Car broke during tune with Marty Feb '24. Running again May '24. Still needs tune.

  3. #3
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    Yeah, I wish it was that easy of a fix!


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  4. #4
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    I'm sorry. I've read some posts here that seem to indicate the FOB / key can cause start problems.
    '03 Silver Birch. Rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. Upgraded to 8 rib belt to reduce slip, July-Nov '23. Car broke during tune with Marty Feb '24. Running again May '24. Still needs tune.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03Merc View Post
    Drove it to work now won't start, doesn't even try to turn over. Has ignition power, but NO power to OBD2 port and fuel pump NOT coming on. Mini Fuses under hood all good. (Not blown). What could it be?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
    Did you check the pigtail coming out of the brushes on the starter to see if it rotted off? See them corroded green and broken frequently.

  6. #6
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    For me, it ended up being intermittent issues with the transponder in the key. Brought my second key in case and it started right up. Started using my second key and no problems.
    2003 Mercury Marauder 300B (Daily Driver)
    1988 LTD Crown Victoria S

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88LTDCV351 View Post
    For me, it ended up being intermittent issues with the transponder in the key. Brought my second key in case and it started right up. Started using my second key and no problems.
    What were the symptoms?


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  8. #8
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    Yellow with black wire corroded. If You get a P1633 KAM code. This is Your issue which will eventually lead to a NO START.

    Fixed now.


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  9. #9
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    Glad you found the problem...it's just astonishing how these issues unfold. You were able to drive it to work and at THAT exact moment is when it decided to go kaput when it is likely that wire had been like that for at least several months...

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverPhoenix View Post
    Glad you found the problem...it's just astonishing how these issues unfold. You were able to drive it to work and at THAT exact moment is when it decided to go kaput when it is likely that wire had been like that for at least several months...
    I know! Insane. I've had the p1633 code come and go. So I knew it had to be something to do with that. There's a great YouTube video of the same symptoms I had so I went ahead and went for that wire or those wires. There are 2 yellow with black that comes from the fuse box that are combined at that point to go to PCM. I clipped them both about 2 inches of wire and added fresh wire. Problem solved.


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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03Merc View Post
    I know! Insane. I've had the p1633 code come and go. So I knew it had to be something to do with that. There's a great YouTube video of the same symptoms I had so I went ahead and went for that wire or those wires. There are 2 yellow with black that comes from the fuse box that are combined at that point to go to PCM. I clipped them both about 2 inches of wire and added fresh wire. Problem solved.


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    Next time I've got my MM up in the air I'll have to take a look at that bundle of wiring to see if there's anything going on...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03Merc View Post
    I know! Insane. I've had the p1633 code come and go. So I knew it had to be something to do with that. There's a great YouTube video of the same symptoms I had so I went ahead and went for that wire or those wires. There are 2 yellow with black that comes from the fuse box that are combined at that point to go to PCM. I clipped them both about 2 inches of wire and added fresh wire. Problem solved.


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    great work!
    any thoughts on what would be a good preventative measure?
    thanks


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '03 Silver Birch. Rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. Upgraded to 8 rib belt to reduce slip, July-Nov '23. Car broke during tune with Marty Feb '24. Running again May '24. Still needs tune.

  13. #13
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    NO START

    Quote Originally Posted by azgolfrat View Post
    great work!
    any thoughts on what would be a good preventative measure?
    thanks


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    Well the open wheel well driver side is what I think causes the moisture to get up there into the harness. The wheel will throw water or in My case snow and dirt and soaks the wires in the loom and it doesn't dry out too well. Closing off the rest of the wheel well would be ideal.


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    Last edited by 03Merc; 02-12-2024 at 05:00 PM.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by 03Merc View Post
    Well the open wheel well driver side is what I think causes the moisture to get up there into the harness. The wheel will throw water or in My case snow and dirt and soaks the wires in the loom and it doesn't dry out too well. Closing off the rest of the wheel well would be ideal.


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    I will see what I can do. If successful , I will post photos


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    '03 Silver Birch. Rebuilt 4.L 32V DOHC, V7-JT blower w/ADTR racing supercharger kit, Shift kit in transmission, stainless works long pipes and cat backs, Ridetech coil-overs front, shocks in back (ADTR kit). Rebuilt calipers, upgraded front rotors, OEM Mercury wheels, [boost, oil P, WB fuel/air, and fuel pressure] gauges. Build duration was Dec 2019 to Mar 2022. Upgraded to 8 rib belt to reduce slip, July-Nov '23. Car broke during tune with Marty Feb '24. Running again May '24. Still needs tune.

  15. #15
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    Union City, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by 88LTDCV351 View Post
    For me, it ended up being intermittent issues with the transponder in the key. Brought my second key in case and it started right up. Started using my second key and no problems.
    OK, so the intermittent issue has started again regardless of which key I use. Was stuck at the dentist for 45 minutes and then the car finally started. So I'm thinking next it could be the transceiver.
    2003 Mercury Marauder 300B (Daily Driver)
    1988 LTD Crown Victoria S

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