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Thread: Power Steering Change?

  1. #1
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    Power Steering Change?

    I realized I've replaced every fluid in my MM multiple times, but only topped off the PS occasionally. Shouldn't it be changed? (125K miles now.) Is it necessary to do so every few years? If so, what's the easiest way to drain the old stuff? Thanks.
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  2. #2
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    Not saying my way is the correct way, but I've never changed my PS fluid and have only topped off a couple times...185k on mine and no issues. Now I suppose I just jinxed myself and something will break in a couple weeks...

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverPhoenix View Post
    Not saying my way is the correct way, but I've never changed my PS fluid and have only topped off a couple times...185k on mine and no issues. Now I suppose I just jinxed myself and something will break in a couple weeks...
    I just went out to the car and sucked some out with a piece of tubing onto a white shop rag, then got some fresh from an unused bottle and I can barely tell the difference. _Maybe_ the fluid in the car is a fraction darker red, but I was looking for it and can hardly tell, so I won’t worry about it for a while. Thanks for the info!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  4. #4
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    I go under the car to the the rack and just take off any of the small lines and let it gravity drain / dribble out.
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  5. #5
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    i use a turkey baster, suck it dry, fill it up. cycle steering back and forth 10 times. REPEAT until fluid is clean and new in the reservoir. now the rack and lines are fresh too.
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  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbov6Bryan View Post
    i use a turkey baster, suck it dry, fill it up. cycle steering back and forth 10 times. REPEAT until fluid is clean and new in the reservoir. now the rack and lines are fresh too.
    Clever idea! I wouldn’t have thought of that but yeah you would get a full change doing that a few times. I’ll give it a try thanks.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by TORINO View Post
    I go under the car to the the rack and just take off any of the small lines and let it gravity drain / dribble out.
    They come off the radiator somewhere I think. (?). I’ll take a look, but might just cheat and do it Bryan’s way.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  8. #8
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    Found this old thread from 2011:

    https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...ng-fluid-flush

    Gonna remove what's in mine and replace with fresh fluid...probably should've done this lone time ago.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by SilverPhoenix View Post
    Found this old thread from 2011:

    https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...ng-fluid-flush

    Gonna remove what's in mine and replace with fresh fluid...probably should've done this lone time ago.
    Cool, thanks. I’ll have to research the “unbolt the tank where it attaches to the radiator” thing, doesn’t ring a bell tho I’ve probably looked at it a hundred times, but I’ll check the manual.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
    MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.

  10. #10
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    Use a turkey baster to remove fluid from the reservoir, refill with fresh fluid. I do this at every oil change. After 4 or 5 changes all the fluid will be fresh.

    **NOTE** Do Not use the baster on Thanksgiving!
    “When you can’t make them see the light, make them feel the heat.”
    Ronald Regan

    "The only way to deal with the Islamic State - these blood thirsty, blood-drunken, terrorists -
    is to kill them, keep on killing them, until you kill the last one, then you kill his pet goat."

    Lt. Colonel Ralph Peters

    “Be polite, be professional, but have a plan to kill everybody you meet.”
    "I come in peace. I didn't bring artillery. But I'm pleading with you, with tears in my eyes, if you **** with me, I'll kill you all"
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by fastblackmerc View Post
    Use a turkey baster to remove fluid from the reservoir, refill with fresh fluid. I do this at every oil change. After 4 or 5 changes all the fluid will be fresh.

    **NOTE** Do Not use the baster on Thanksgiving!
    You're missing out on flavor!

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