I realized I've replaced every fluid in my MM multiple times, but only topped off the PS occasionally. Shouldn't it be changed? (125K miles now.) Is it necessary to do so every few years? If so, what's the easiest way to drain the old stuff? Thanks.
Trying to get it right...
I realized I've replaced every fluid in my MM multiple times, but only topped off the PS occasionally. Shouldn't it be changed? (125K miles now.) Is it necessary to do so every few years? If so, what's the easiest way to drain the old stuff? Thanks.
2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
Senior Member
Not saying my way is the correct way, but I've never changed my PS fluid and have only topped off a couple times...185k on mine and no issues. Now I suppose I just jinxed myself and something will break in a couple weeks...
Trying to get it right...
I just went out to the car and sucked some out with a piece of tubing onto a white shop rag, then got some fresh from an unused bottle and I can barely tell the difference. _Maybe_ the fluid in the car is a fraction darker red, but I was looking for it and can hardly tell, so I won’t worry about it for a while. Thanks for the info!Originally Posted by SilverPhoenix
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2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
NEED FOR SPEED
I go under the car to the the rack and just take off any of the small lines and let it gravity drain / dribble out.
73TORINO SPORT 112K M. BOUGHT NEW
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98 MARK VIII 75K M. BOUGHT NEW
21 EXPLORER PLATINUM 3.0
18 GENESIS G80 5.0
54 GMC
I miss whitey here
i use a turkey baster, suck it dry, fill it up. cycle steering back and forth 10 times. REPEAT until fluid is clean and new in the reservoir. now the rack and lines are fresh too.
The twins2.3 whipple/aluminatorVortech V-2 lots of goodies
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Trying to get it right...
Clever idea! I wouldn’t have thought of that but yeah you would get a full change doing that a few times. I’ll give it a try thanks.
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2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
Trying to get it right...
They come off the radiator somewhere I think. (?). I’ll take a look, but might just cheat and do it Bryan’s way.
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2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
Senior Member
Found this old thread from 2011:
https://www.mercurymarauder.net/foru...ng-fluid-flush
Gonna remove what's in mine and replace with fresh fluid...probably should've done this lone time ago.
Trying to get it right...
Cool, thanks. I’ll have to research the “unbolt the tank where it attaches to the radiator” thing, doesn’t ring a bell tho I’ve probably looked at it a hundred times, but I’ll check the manual.
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2003 black pre-decontented 300B #5886 of 7838; Born on 10/31/02
MartyO tune, 4:10's, T/A stud & girdle, MMX shaft+DS loop, Metco control arms, Quickor RSB, Addco FSB, Megs delete tips, Granatelli solid coil connectors, NGK plugs & LP 170 stat, DR rear engine cooling mod, PI 3000 TC, Level II tranny, Art Carr deep pan, Steeda pullies/billet caps, billet door locks, Ford Racing oil cap / polished coil covers, PHP CAK & Metco carbon fiber intake, DG Motorsports CF radiator cover, Fumoto oil drain valve, oil deflector, real Autometer gauges, ScanGauge II, Weatherflectors, underbody lighting kit, Zack chrome grill, OEM spoiler & door edge guards, KB dead pedal, Dynopro aluminum sills & pedals, Viper alarm w/ remote start, MM fender badges, red painted calipers, SS inserts, Silverstar Ultras, hood bumpers, 35% tints, Gorilla lug nuts, MM valve caps, Pro-Guard, DD trunk lid liner, CM UHI kit, CM Godshead rear & steering wheel badges, S-55 badge, FilterMag, MM trunk bib, ported sub-woofer.
Everything Marauder, LEDs & HI
Use a turkey baster to remove fluid from the reservoir, refill with fresh fluid. I do this at every oil change. After 4 or 5 changes all the fluid will be fresh.
**NOTE** Do Not use the baster on Thanksgiving!
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